Clayton
Hi
Nice to here from you.
When I read Timoz post the first person I thought of was you.
Whats next , seriously I would like to just put it together.
These are the time consuming stages.
Fixing these things are worth it thats why you are sorting yours.
Plus Im learning.
Cris
I was going to rotate my bracket before I checked it out.
Rotating the bracket will only relieve the twist off the bush due to the required caster.
It wont change the amount required.
The thing I noticed that had a big effect was the lower arm (A frame).
Forget the rear part of the arm string a line from the inner bush to the front rose joint on the upright.
In theory it will keep getting longer until it is in line with the inner bush.
Pulling on the caster is also causing this effect to reduce as the arm rolls up at the front and brings the front rose joint closer to the centre bush and also lifting the t/link pickup points.
Ross has obviously found 7deg is enough to flatten the t/links to knock out one lot of arcing.
Jim
Hi
Nice to here from you.
When I read Timoz post the first person I thought of was you.
Whats next , seriously I would like to just put it together.
These are the time consuming stages.
Fixing these things are worth it thats why you are sorting yours.
Plus Im learning.
Cris
I was going to rotate my bracket before I checked it out.
Rotating the bracket will only relieve the twist off the bush due to the required caster.
It wont change the amount required.
The thing I noticed that had a big effect was the lower arm (A frame).
Forget the rear part of the arm string a line from the inner bush to the front rose joint on the upright.
In theory it will keep getting longer until it is in line with the inner bush.
Pulling on the caster is also causing this effect to reduce as the arm rolls up at the front and brings the front rose joint closer to the centre bush and also lifting the t/link pickup points.
Ross has obviously found 7deg is enough to flatten the t/links to knock out one lot of arcing.
Jim
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