Scandinavian SL-C build

Johan

Supporter
The mounting of the rear inner fenders are pretty straight forward, however the vertical panels didn`t fit at all since they are for the race tail, so I made new ones. They are now extending all the way to the rear of the tail and it`s a big differance of the ridgidity of the rear clam now.
 

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Joel K

Supporter
Rear window.
I had been thinking a lot which route to take when mounting the rear window/vent. There are several ways to do it, but after measuring the thickness of both the lexan and the CF vent together it was clear to me. The thickness is the same as the distans between the body surface and the flange.
So what I did was to cut holes in the window to get the vent in it, i.s.o cutting off approximatly 8" on each side. I then hid the screws under the vents with only 4 screws visible.
I made several tests on scrap lexan which type of adhesive to use for the screws and finally decided to go with SuperSteel (PlasticPadding). Together with VuDuGlu it stood out among the rest of the test adhesive. I had to really smash them with a hammer to get the screws loose. It was the temp rating that made me to go with SS over the Vuduglu, it`s rated to max 315C and continous 120C.
The window and vents are now completely flush with the body.
I also strengthened the rear clam around the window with 10mm foam and CSM before cutting the hole.

Very clever approach Johan, that came out fantastic. Thanks for sharing.
 

Johan

Supporter
I missed one picture in post#100.
This is the fastener I used on the CF vents.
Countersunk screws in picture 788 is used on the lexan.
 

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Johan

Supporter
I also finished up the roof tunnel.
2 layers of 150 gram CSM and 3 layers 450 gram, it will be glued into place tonite.
 

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Good stuff - I like your vertical rear inner fenders; the factory pieces are a little thin and they're not as stiff as I'd like, especially after I hacked them up to provide clearance for my bellcrank stabilizers.

Nice roof tunnel! The top of the car gets pretty hot when exposed to the sun - be sure you stuff as much heat blocker in the roof as possible! I think a good amount of heat coming into the passenger compartment is actually from the green house; the windshield, side windows, upper door skins, and roof. You can't really add any heat blocker to the glass or door skins so all you have left is whatever space is between the ceiling panel and roof.
 

Johan

Supporter
Inner roof panel mod.
I have been thinking for a while how to do this, so I went to IKEA to look for something to make a plug out of. I found a plastic container in the kitchen department that was suitable, cut it in half and filled it with FG bondo.
Then the usual treatment with release agent on the plug and fiberglassed it in to the overhead panel.
The switches are from Billet Automotive Buttons in Australia.
 

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Very cool execution of the overhead buttons! Reminiscent of the cockpit from an airplane? ;). Pushing those buttons up above opens up the real estate on the dash, nice move.

Do you plan to have water pump, fans, and fuel pumps something you will turn on every time you start your car? Or are these manual overrides and your vehicle system will take care of water pump/fan/fuel pump automatically?
 

Johan

Supporter
Those three are manual overrides and the waterpump is just in case I go for a Davies Craig in the future. And it looked better with 5in a row iso 4.
 

Johan

Supporter
Graziano txfr gear change. This is a Graziano KVJ (R8-V10), supposedly 2012 year model according to seller. We took it apart and checked all bearings and sync rings as well as the discs in the differential, all quite good, but very dirty.
I doubt they ever made an oil change.
Now, according to the info available on the forum and also from HCFparts, there is a change around 2014-2015 in the production from a non-recessed gear to a recessed one. This was not the case with mine, it was recessed even thou it`s an older transmission. Fortunately, I have both versions of the transfer gear.
But for you guys thinking of buying a gear set, go with the recessed ones since they can be used in both versions.
John B, please chime in if I´m wrong.
You can see the difference in the pics.
 

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Johan

Supporter
Dash panel. The dash had a good fit, however it was a little warped so I had to fixate it straight while FG-ing some reinforcement underneith.
In stead of glueing mounts in the forward part of the spider I made the defrost outlets resting on the forward part of the ancor.
I used 10mm foam sheets and just squeezed them down in the defrost holes until they rested on the ancor outlets with the dash positioned where I wanted it.
With the dash aligned with the inner door panels, my steering wheel was dead center with my AIM dash, I didn`t see a thing of it, so I cut the hex spacers holding the steering column down to 15mm, that positioned the column as far up it could go. It`s now acceptable.
 

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Joel K

Supporter
Graziano txfr gear change. This is a Graziano KVJ (R8-V10), supposedly 2012 year model according to seller. We took it apart and checked all bearings and sync rings as well as the discs in the differential, all quite good, but very dirty.
I doubt they ever made an oil change.
Now, according to the info available on the forum and also from HCFparts, there is a change around 2014-2015 in the production from a non-recessed gear to a recessed one. This was not the case with mine, it was recessed even thou it`s an older transmission. Fortunately, I have both versions of the transfer gear.
But for you guys thinking of buying a gear set, go with the recessed ones since they can be used in both versions.
John B, please chime in if I´m wrong.
You can see the difference in the pics.

Johan,

How big a job is it to replace the transfer/Drop Gears? I was planning on having a shop do this, but just curious.
 

Johan

Supporter
Joel, it all comes down to your level of experience. Myself, I was working as a car mechanic back in the seventies and was also into dragracing back then, so I’ve done a lot of 4 and 5 speed manual as well as TH350 and -400 automatic. Only once was I into a transaxle (ZF from a Pantera) and that was 30 some years ago, so I didn’t consider myself good enough to dive into the Graziano.
I had help from a friends friend (first Graz for him too) , but he’s a professional and doing a lot of Porsch transaxles.
If I decide to change the gears in my other Graz (KBA), I’ll do it myself, but then again, I’ve had some practice now.
 

Joel K

Supporter
Thanks Johan,

Considering this is my first build and the cost of the Graz I think I’ll defer to the professionals for this job.

As Dirty Harry said in the movie Magnum Force. “A man’s got to know his limitations”

 

Johan

Supporter
Totally agree with that, Joel.
BTW, no clearencing/ grinding was needed in the housing with the 1.04:1 transfer gear.(That is for the KVJ)
I’m starting to think that the KVJ and KBA housing isn’t the same.
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
Johan can you post a picture of how you mounted your Audi shifter. I'm cutting mine up in order to mount it as low as possible. Looks like you did the same. Cam cut his up as well.

I can see it in post #57. A better shot of it would be much appreciated.
 
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Johan

Supporter
Ken, I will post asap, the thing is I’m on vacation in Florida.
I think I have a couple of pics on my build log.
I cut the aluminium mount and angled it a bit to get it as low as possible.I would say about 25-30 degrees.
I now have approximatly 2 mm between the lower part of the stick (where the cable connects) to the chassi beam.
I’ll get back on this when home again
 
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