Scandinavian SL-C build

I added a Stewart EWP just before the radiator inlet controlled by the Holley ECU, I progammed it to come on 10* before the fans and it`s great.
Before, the fans came on if I had the engine idling for 15-20 minutes, but now the EWP comes on and it takes care of the cooling. The fan stays off. So at idle it isn`t enough flow in the system with the stock mech water pump.

Also bought a Alpine 700, a short double din, only 75mm deep so it fits in the center console without modification. So BU camera in the Alpine and Rear View cam in the mirror, both works perfect. Thanks Cam for your help.
 

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The mechanical parking brake was not satisfactory, I don`t think it would have passed inspection, so I followed Cam`s route and got hold of a pair of Tesla Elec parking brake calipers and a switch from Jon Haas (Pantera electronics). Made new brackets and reused the threded inserts from the old brackets, works very good now after some rewiring. I first connected the Batt+ over ignition, should be constant +12volts, if not the switch looses its memory. I will powdercote the calipers later on. The whole system cost around 350US (caliper+switch), highly recommended.
 

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Joel K

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I added a Stewart EWP just before the radiator inlet controlled by the Holley ECU, I progammed it to come on 10* before the fans and it`s great.
Before, the fans came on if I had the engine idling for 15-20 minutes, but now the EWP comes on and it takes care of the cooling. The fan stays off. So at idle it isn`t enough flow in the system with the stock mech water pump.

Also bought a Alpine 700, a short double din, only 75mm deep so it fits in the center console without modification. So BU camera in the Alpine and Rear View cam in the mirror, both works perfect. Thanks Cam for your help.
Johan, can you provide a couple pics on your EWP install? Just to clarify so I understand, your EWP acts as a booster to your mechanical pump rather than replacing the mechanical water pump?
 
Howard, I believe it was this one you recommended long time ago.
And yes Joel, it acts as a booster together with the mechanical and is a flow thru, so it doesn’t have to run continously. I mounted it just before the radiator inlet, just made a new bracket to get it inline with the inlet tube. So now the EWP provide a higher system pressure in the radiator to vent the steam/air pockets to the expantion tank and the mech pump raises the pressure again in the engine to vent it. If you understand what I mean.(I’m not that good at explaining my thoughts)
 
Great job on the EPB install Johan! I'm pretty far behind on my own setup but I'm glad to hear everything is working well. I really like Jon's solution with the button; it has great visual indicators to let you know status of the brakes. Did you run your wire down the center tunnel and into the engine bay before splitting their direction? My console is a pain in the butt to remove so I was thinking I'd run the wires down one side of the vehicle, in the side pod, before splitting them. Any issues with routing flat 4-conductor wire vs a round one?
 
Great job on the EPB install Johan! I'm pretty far behind on my own setup but I'm glad to hear everything is working well. I really like Jon's solution with the button; it has great visual indicators to let you know status of the brakes. Did you run your wire down the center tunnel and into the engine bay before splitting their direction? My console is a pain in the butt to remove so I was thinking I'd run the wires down one side of the vehicle, in the side pod, before splitting them. Any issues with routing flat 4-conductor wire vs a round one?
Cam, I ran my wires through the center console and they are quite a bit stiffer than round wires, but there is no problem to route them as long as you don’t have a super tight radius. Only thing i regret is not choosing the pushbutton version since all my other switches has that design.
 
Great job on the EPB install Johan! I'm pretty far behind on my own setup but I'm glad to hear everything is working well. I really like Jon's solution with the button; it has great visual indicators to let you know status of the brakes. Did you run your wire down the center tunnel and into the engine bay before splitting their direction? My console is a pain in the butt to remove so I was thinking I'd run the wires down one side of the vehicle, in the side pod, before splitting them. Any issues with routing flat 4-conductor wire vs a round one?
Cam, thinking about it you might have a problem with the length of the flat 4wire bundle if you run them both in the same side pod. Since I ran mine in the center they are equal length and I cut approximatly 80-90 cm off of them. If you run a wire in each sidepod-no problem. Just measure the longest route before deciding.
 
On my LS7, I welded up the water pump and welded in a new fitting here pointed up and to the left. Made life much easier.

Also, I had 200 cell CATs that looked similar to yours - they did nothing to quiet the engine. You probably want mufflers too (I usually try to avoid mufflers).

MT7ZTGM.jpg
 
...Just to clarify so I understand, your EWP acts as a booster to your mechanical pump rather than replacing the mechanical water pump?
I switched to a Davies Craig EWP150 for the engine and a EBP23 for Turbo/Waste Gates/Oil-Water heat exchangers . Took the impeller out of the mechanical water pump and took the thermostat out. Used the Davies Electronic controller, but will take that out and let the ECU control it soon. I made all these changes when I switched from LS to Toyota power because I could never keep the LS cool at high speed (150+). Added a small second radiator in the side scoop that cools the water from Turbo/Wastegates/Oil before circulating it back through the engine. First outing I could not get the engine up to 170 degrees at speed! Now with the boost cranked temps stay below 200.

Alex Hockey over at Davies Craig was very helpful.
 
Today`s screwup. Having spent the last 3 days for final fitment of the doors and opening mechanism I was quite happy with the result. Perfect gap all around the door and the opening/closing worked great.
So when closing the door the final time I hear something falling inside the door, sounded like a washer or nut. Sure thing, can`t open the door anymore. So what to do? Impossible to get to the opening mechanism or the front hinge due to the inner panel, and I can`t get to the inner panel fasteners eighter when the door is closed.
Only solution-Holesaw.
I know what you`re thinking, why not use nylocks. But since everything is coming on and off so many times i elected to use regular nuts until final assembly.
Maybe it`s smart to have an alternate way to door opening.(Cable)
Those look like Cayenne door handles- are they?
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
Those look like Cayenne door handles- are they?
He mentioned to Joel that they were indeed.
 
I made a similar modification to my water pump.
But the truth of the matter is that I'd put a remote located electric pump in it every time if I ever do this again.
 
On my LS7, I welded up the water pump and welded in a new fitting here pointed up and to the left. Made life much easier.

Also, I had 200 cell CATs that looked similar to yours - they did nothing to quiet the engine. You probably want mufflers too (I usually try to avoid mufflers).

View attachment 104048
Well it isn’t as bad as it lookes in the picture, I have about 8-10mm clearance.
 
I switched to a Davies Craig EWP150 for the engine and a EBP23 for Turbo/Waste Gates/Oil-Water heat exchangers . Took the impeller out of the mechanical water pump and took the thermostat out. Used the Davies Electronic controller, but will take that out and let the ECU control it soon. I made all these changes when I switched from LS to Toyota power because I could never keep the LS cool at high speed (150+). Added a small second radiator in the side scoop that cools the water from Turbo/Wastegates/Oil before circulating it back through the engine. First outing I could not get the engine up to 170 degrees at speed! Now with the boost cranked temps stay below 200.

Alex Hockey over at Davies Craig was very helpful.
I have a Davies Craig as well, just haven’t installed it. The engine stays within temp limits so far so I’ll keep it as is for now.
The climate here close to the north pole might help also.
 
Up until now I`ve had the Graz KBA (unmodified) in the car and this saturday I decided to swap to my KVJ (modified drop gear). Everything went smooth until the last thing to tighten, the drive shafts. As it turns out Audi apparently changed the diameter of the bolt circle on the transmission mounting flange from approx 95mm on the KVJ to 93mm on the KBA, so I eighter need new drive shafts to the KVJ or swap back to the KBA. Fortunatly I have another set of 1.04:1 drop gear, so I went ahead and changed it in the KBA.
It went a lot easier this second time around, the Graz was apart in a little over 2 hours.

I followed Dustin`s invention with the wrench, jacked up a good old Bacho, worked perfect. I`ll make the very specific socket tomorrow to be able to torque the nut when installing again.
Just hope I wont get any leftover parts when done.
Made a mounting/holding fixture of a piece of plywood to keep the shafts together. Made it a bit larger this time as this will help a lot when torqueing all back. Also had to ground the housing this time, taped it up carefully before grinding.
Agree with Dustin, thoose nut aren`t cheap, around 700swedish ($70) each, it takes 3 for drop gear only.
 

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