SLC 001 Build

I always liked a lens, but when I saw the Pagani, I became a fan of the sculptural look of the open headlight. In my opinion yours look even better than the Pagani. Good luck making this decision.
 
After a bit of a learning curve to get .25 lexan to conform to a plug that in the beginning warped and cracked and in the middle had the lexan blowing bubbles in itself (need a convection oven), we have these. The goal of .25 material was to hopefully have enough stiffness to allow some area of the lens not need a flange for support. Leaving a cleaner, less obstructed opening as a result. Unfortunately it didn't work out that way.

Sad thing is I really don't like how the flanges clutter up the opening and .... I'm not sure I'll use them. Possibly I'm just suffering from a marathon build day hangover.

Maybe I'll warm up to the idea.

Thoughts?
 

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Looks like you are coming along pretty good with them. I would just paint the inside surround black, so you don't see the flange itself. Kind of finishes the part off imo also..
 
Thanks for asking John.
Look at that, it's been almost a year since my last update.

I am pleased to say I'm about two weeks from putting the paint on. Besides priming and sanding (and sanding, and sanding) I've been busy designing some add on accessories.

Shark gill vents for forward of the front wheels.
Some airflow directing vanes for the radiator openings.

And the thing that I'm the most intrigued by - A modern version of the 'old' BBS wheel fans.

Here's to hoping I can get the fans done in time for the car's rolling out party, but there's a lot of work ahead on the idea, test prints, redesigns, not to mention the centerlock anchor system for the same.

The fans should really add a visual as it's been sometime since we've seen wheel fans and none that I can recall on cars using 19-20 inch wheels.

I'm looking forward to seeing what it all looks like.

Cheers.
 
A few questions:

What are builders doing to hold the dash top side inserts in place (allowing dash past the roll cage)

What is the preferred gold heat shield for bottom side of the rear clam? Are any more favorable in regards to minor complex curves?

TIA
 
Some time ago I had decided to place the battery in my car in the passenger foot well. This brought some concerned comments by the assembled masses as to the possibility of death inducing vapors presenting themselves at some point. At the time the battery of choice was the Braille 21, this was the strongest unit I could find that would fit in in the limited space available. As it turned out the Braille just didn't have the snort to turn my engine over unless it was at peak charge every time.

Enter the search for the long term solution. I had been looking at Anti-Gravity brand lithium options (among others) for some time but, never got the warm and fuzzies that they had an offering which was suited to a real street based car. My search continued and fortunately the answer presented itself with a call to Indura Power. Turns out they had an option recommended for big rigs, hhmmmm? that should start my car. After a very informative conversation with James (their tech), I was sold.

According to him, if your Lithium battery does not have a minimum voltage safety cut-off circuit you stand a real chance of killing your battery as Lithium is non-recoverable once the voltage goes below 9. As it was, this feature already saved my battery twice from the clutches of the grim reaper in the month I have had it. As most of us know it's very easy to run your battery low (in this case low = DOA).

On to the good stuff. This thing is a MONSTER when it comes to cranking over the engine, first time, tenth time. All the same. It also features a tip over switch which as the name implies - cuts the power to the terminals in the event you should, uh, tip over.

14 pounds, 1,100 CCA, 40 amp hours, relatively tiny. NO VAPORS.
 

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Allan reminded me that the standard method of filling the voids left by trimming the ends of the dash for front roll hoop clearance is.... Installing the A post covers. Which of course I donated to someone way back.

Here's my fix.

I need to do something here myself. I'm not a big fan of the A post covers, they are bulky and I like being able to handle the bar getting in and out. Did you make a mold for those two insert pieces?


My search continued and fortunately the answer presented itself with a call to Indura Power. Turns out they had an option recommended for big rigs, hhmmmm? that should start my car. After a very informative conversation with James (their tech), I was sold.

According to him, if your Lithium battery does not have a minimum voltage safety cut-off circuit you stand a real chance of killing your battery as Lithium is non-recoverable once the voltage goes below 9. As it was, this feature already saved my battery twice from the clutches of the grim reaper in the month I have had it. As most of us know it's very easy to run your battery low (in this case low = DOA).

14 pounds, 1,100 CCA, 40 amp hours, relatively tiny. NO VAPORS.
How pricey was this solution, $800-$900? I know some of these lithium batteries can get pretty expensive with all the protection circuits (which is the smart way to do it!)
 
I need to do something here myself. I'm not a big fan of the A post covers, they are bulky and I like being able to handle the bar getting in and out. Did you make a mold for those two insert pieces?


How pricey was this solution, $800-$900? I know some of these lithium batteries can get pretty expensive with all the protection circuits (which is the smart way to do it!)
My dash was delivered with the 'wings' still attached, fortunately I saved them. It would be my guess that the current 'as supplied' dash has them cut off before they are shipped.

I grab the vertical portion of the roll hoop to get in and out too.

At the time I ordered my Indura it was $650, it may still be that price on their website. Good price considering the competition is more of the range you suggested.
 
For us Ricardo users;
Do you have any free play when you first start to depress the clutch pedal? Meaning - before the slave cylinder comes in contact with the clutch fingers. Mine gives full resistance as soon as I touch the pedal. I'm thinking I need to look into this....

TIA
 
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