OK, try this:
Russell 641291 Russell Brake Hose Adapters
They have both male and female versions of adapters.
Russell 641291 Russell Brake Hose Adapters
They have both male and female versions of adapters.
SLC 36 Cam's Build
- Thread starter Cam MacIsaac
- Start date
That looks like one way to do it (and then you'd need an to an union piece obviously), and probably the best way, unless you wanted to start cutting and re-flaring.
$100 brake light switch here I come, haha. That's about as good as my $900 "e-brake" on my cobra :laugh:
Howard Jones
Supporter
I always look up what I need at the Earls fittings website, note the earls part # and then call summit racing. They have nearly everything in stock or can get it drop shipped very quickly.
Earls; Earl's Performance Plumbing, Hoses, Hose Ends, and Brake Systems
Summit racing; Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030
Earls; Earl's Performance Plumbing, Hoses, Hose Ends, and Brake Systems
Summit racing; Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030
Doc asked for a little more defintion on adapting the Drive by Wire to the RCR pedal box. I used ¼” thick Al so there’s no flex. It’s a 5” wide piece by 11.5” tall, flush/Square with the bottom of the pedal box. 5 bolts hold it but welding would be ideal.
Although a 6” piece would have probably left a little more breating room. I didn’t cut around the Drive by Wire so the top of Al bar would also act as a pedal stop. That way the pedal won’t chew up the Chevy harness. I used 2 of these Clevis joints from McMaster McMaster-Carr
I had to use ¼” spacers to move the pedal off the Al Bar to center it.
Although a 6” piece would have probably left a little more breating room. I didn’t cut around the Drive by Wire so the top of Al bar would also act as a pedal stop. That way the pedal won’t chew up the Chevy harness. I used 2 of these Clevis joints from McMaster McMaster-Carr
I had to use ¼” spacers to move the pedal off the Al Bar to center it.
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Been outta town for a while but got a few odd projects done. I welded on tabs to the crossmember to catch the exhaust clamps. I went with exhaust clamps becuase i wanted a seam if when I need to take it apart. I tried 3 different types that all bent and decomposed when tightened. I ended up using the 3" mcmaster carr SS and added a few tack welds.
You can see the clamp next to the bumper that i'm using for the dash. It's a marine drain plug with the top washer removed and the rubber ground away. I've tapped 3 of them into the Al dash and i can now raise and lower the dash with a jam nut. Works nice and it shouldn't rattle.
I also threw up a shot of the Ricardo bracket after grinding. If you take about 3/8" off, it will fit under the crossmember.
Oh yea, the front disc pad mounts need a little grinding too. Maybe 1/8" on the lower rear to have them engage fully.
You can see the clamp next to the bumper that i'm using for the dash. It's a marine drain plug with the top washer removed and the rubber ground away. I've tapped 3 of them into the Al dash and i can now raise and lower the dash with a jam nut. Works nice and it shouldn't rattle.
I also threw up a shot of the Ricardo bracket after grinding. If you take about 3/8" off, it will fit under the crossmember.
Oh yea, the front disc pad mounts need a little grinding too. Maybe 1/8" on the lower rear to have them engage fully.
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That's odd - I didn't have to cut my t-axle cable bracket. It fit under the t-axle cage; barely, but it fit....I'll have to take a look to see if it was cut or not, but I don't think it was.
Btw, are you sure you had to grind the front brake mount? Not something I'd want to do unless Fran said to :lipsrsealed:
Btw, are you sure you had to grind the front brake mount? Not something I'd want to do unless Fran said to :lipsrsealed:
Alex;
I bet when you get your LS attached, you might have to grind the shifter bracket.
Also, i didn't grind anything off the brake mount, just a tiny 1/8" nub off the metal portion of the dics pad holder. there was no pad attached to it so i doubt it will caase a problem, right?
Seems like everyone is putting adjustabel plate on the bottom of the pedal box, so i caved in to peer pressure.
I got all the flex lines from fran and my residual pressure valves for the brakes. I copied what has been doen with the valves on the other SLC's but the MC arrow pointing toward the calipers, not the master cylinders. The fitting wouldn't work the opposite way, so i followed suit with other builds. To me it seemed backwards. You put them in becuase the masters are lower than the calipers so i'd think they are directional. Does it look like these are wrong to anyone?
Also, got the 130 lbs door struts from Fran. Tehy came with a drawing that shoed them to by put onto the door hinge but this stopped the doors form opening to a point that made it difficult to get in/out.
There was a hole pre drilled in my hinge that fit perfect adn allowed them to open all the way. They are stout at the top adn i think helped to reinforce the hinges, the doors feel more solid. But with the struts in this position 1.5" out on the hinge it acts like a cam and actually accelerates door closing a little at the bottom of the travel. I'm considering addin a 2nd set of struts in the door as Mesa has done.
I got all the flex lines from fran and my residual pressure valves for the brakes. I copied what has been doen with the valves on the other SLC's but the MC arrow pointing toward the calipers, not the master cylinders. The fitting wouldn't work the opposite way, so i followed suit with other builds. To me it seemed backwards. You put them in becuase the masters are lower than the calipers so i'd think they are directional. Does it look like these are wrong to anyone?
Also, got the 130 lbs door struts from Fran. Tehy came with a drawing that shoed them to by put onto the door hinge but this stopped the doors form opening to a point that made it difficult to get in/out.
There was a hole pre drilled in my hinge that fit perfect adn allowed them to open all the way. They are stout at the top adn i think helped to reinforce the hinges, the doors feel more solid. But with the struts in this position 1.5" out on the hinge it acts like a cam and actually accelerates door closing a little at the bottom of the travel. I'm considering addin a 2nd set of struts in the door as Mesa has done.
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Think they just work one way and that´s the way they are designed for. Would not put them in in opposite direction. I by myself are not using them. I just use the housing and took out the valve ( so if decide otherwise late i just have to put in the valve). As far as my understanding goes, it is not relevant where your MC´s are in relation to the calipers. It is moreover relevant where your Fluid reservoirs are in relation to the calipers as long as they are above the caliper level, there should be no need for a residual valve. I kind of don´t like the idea having something preventing the pad from freeing the disc completely. I also like to have a softer pedal in the beginning.
TOM
Got the ultra flex filler neck from england, only 1 month delivery, snappy. it's amazing though, you can bend a 2" pipe into a 4" radius without collapse. I couldn't find anything like it in the US.
Had to adapt from the 2" RCR tank to the metric Sparco filler neck 60mm i think. I ended up using fuel safe epoxy to secure a galvanized apdapter in between the neck and the 2". Hope i don't ever need to take that apart!
I also got the cable shifters in form CableShift. The owner Jim is a good guy to work with. They came in a little short at 83 and 92 inch. Had to swap them for 102 and 104".
Had to adapt from the 2" RCR tank to the metric Sparco filler neck 60mm i think. I ended up using fuel safe epoxy to secure a galvanized apdapter in between the neck and the 2". Hope i don't ever need to take that apart!
I also got the cable shifters in form CableShift. The owner Jim is a good guy to work with. They came in a little short at 83 and 92 inch. Had to swap them for 102 and 104".
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Started the wiring, I needed 11 relays plus the horn relay that is included with the EZ harness. If you are using the standard SLC steering column and want to wire up the up / down, in / out, that will take up 4 of those relays.
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CV's for a heat shield??????????????????????????????????????????????