BTW, i got the tiny 1/4" clevis joints form mc master carr for the dbw to be hooked to the pedal box. i left extra Al onthe bracket so the pedal can't hit the gm harness
Dave; Here are a few more pics of the drive by wire in the pedal box. I like the idea of having it as one unit so if it needs to be moved, i can re-attach with the DBW. This is the way Tim did his, i copied! I'm trying to keep everything stock GM simple and not switch to a cable shifter.Cam - You've been busy! I've been curious as to how the dbw and pedal assembly work together (my car has the LS3). It appears the dbw is bolted to the chassis and the clevis joints/arm connected between the accelerator pedal and the dbw arm actuate the dbw? Did you do the install or did your car come that way from RCR? Do you happen to have a picture of the entire pedal arrangement?
Your build is looking great. That's the same grill material I'm looking at using. I prefer the more open design as opposed to using the expanded type. Did you cut the vent openings? If so, any suggestions on how to get a clean, straight cut?
Regards,
Dave L
Dave; Here are a few more pics of the drive by wire in the pedal box. I like the idea of having it as one unit so if it needs to be moved, i can re-attach with the DBW. This is the way Tim did his, i copied! I'm trying to keep everything stock GM simple and not switch to a cable shifter.
I actually had RCR cut those openings but Mark at RCR said he makes a fat sharpie line and leaves the line with a thin wheel on a die grinder. then he comes back with the drum sander to take out the line. I tried it on the headlights and it work pretty well. Limit coffee intake before cutting?
I've probably got enough Al material to cover your vents. I think a 14" x 14" will cover the 3 vents? Just PM me an address...
Alex, do a google search for a hydraulic brake line switch, much neater & you won't break it!