Southern GT #48

Eddy McClements

Supporter
Decided that my original throttle linkage was going to stress the cable end, each time the pedal was floored...



So I cut off the pivot, and the mount for the cable and built an alternative system with a part-circle pulley which will be kinder to the cable...







There is some adjustment available to provide quicker or slower action. Question also is....how much cable pull do I need for a Holley or Edelbrock 650 CFM carb? Inch-and-a-half?

Oh, and the revised design sends the cable off towards the left hand sill, down which it will be routed to the engine bay.
 

Eddy McClements

Supporter
Popped the revised pedal box into place and hooked-up the plumbing...which still needs further clips, while allowing some movement fore/aft for the adjustable pedal box position.



Also been running more lines...








Front brake pipe pops through the front bulkhead...



...into a four-way tee piece which will accept the brake light switch

 

Shaun

Supporter
One thing to check, hard to tell from photos but IVA says the max clip spacing should be 300mm, I think it looks fine but one to check maybe? Love the pedal box, really nice job
 

Eddy McClements

Supporter
One thing to check, hard to tell from photos but IVA says the max clip spacing should be 300mm, I think it looks fine but one to check maybe? Love the pedal box, really nice job
Cheers, Shaun. There are loads of clips, and I'll be adding more. Oddly, although it is oft-repeated that the IVA manual states brake clip spacing should be 300mm or less, it actually doesn't specify a minumum at all:-

1587567319598.png


It merely states "adequately clipped". However, in the General Construction section it does state 300mm for wiring:-

1587567549471.png


So you probably can't go far wrong following that. My main aim with the brake lines is to prevent then from touching the chassis, where they might vibrate and eventually wear through (eek!).
 

Eddy McClements

Supporter
Not pictured here, but I installed a 3/8" aluminium tube down the left-hand sill with a couple of gradual bends at each end - this now contains the throttle cable, so in the event of a problem I can install a new cable without having to uninstall the fuel tank. It comes into the passenger compartment just next to the a/c hose holes at the front of the sill cover.
 

Neil

Supporter
In #8 of the "Required Standard" I think they meant to say "...not more than...". It makes no sense the way it is written.
 

Shaun

Supporter
Good point Eddy as you say I think more is better to protect it form any hard surfaces, I went a little clip crazy as with rivets but they are pence so I thought best err on that side, I think it makes it look a pucker job as well which should please the tester
Got an ECU loom to fit tonight.....Gulp o_O
 
Question please, do you have any plans to paint the panels if so powder coating or something different or are you leaving the aluminium bare, thank you
 

Shaun

Supporter
Going to leave mine bare, I admire those that paint them then build as they are just so easy to scratch, Mick at SGT has seen some where they are smartened up a bit with a scotch brite pad to give them a more matt look, may experiment but I am going for a bit of a stripped out look inside with bare panels as well so making my life in the build a bit easier!!
 
Going to leave mine bare, I admire those that paint them then build as they are just so easy to scratch, Mick at SGT has seen some where they are smartened up a bit with a scotch brite pad to give them a more matt look, may experiment but I am going for a bit of a stripped out look inside with bare panels as well so making my life in the build a bit easier!!
Thank you
 

Eddy McClements

Supporter
Calling fellow Southern GT builders...

So that I can route the clutch line and finish the gearshift linkage I needed to fit the 'box, which meant mounting the set-up block (a tatty old '72 Torino / Fairlane, I think).




Please excuse the state of the workshop!

I have Mick's engine mounts, and Chris Cole's gearbox mounts (which are way off, and will need to be returned). Even so, it's clear that the engine is slightly nose-downwards in the chassis....is this normal in SGT builds?
 

Shaun

Supporter
No don't think it should slope, I had a very odd box and the standard rubber mounts Mick supplied did not fit so he made me a bracket, my box did not have the holes drilled and tapped in the right place to take the brackets that go to the rubber blocks, I'll dig out a photo
 

Shaun

Supporter
This was before the new bracket was made only one fixing hole and misaligned the box, I'll take a photo later of mine now
1587894828648.png
 

Eddy McClements

Supporter
This was before the new bracket was made only one fixing hole and misaligned the box, I'll take a photo later of mine now
View attachment 106055
Thanks Shaun. Currently you will see in my pic above that the transaxle is sitting on the chassis crossmember so it physically can't go any lower. The only way to get the engine level would be to have the front of the engine higher....but that's mounted on SGT mounts, which must be correct as Mick made them...?
 

Mike Pass

Supporter
Hi Eddy, looking good.
On my GTD as on many others with the Renault box, the engine slopes down at about 4 degrees. I have a wedge plate under the Holley carb to set it level.
Some people have used vinyl wrap on the panels. Use clear if you want the shiny aluminium look. It can be peeled off and changed if it gets tatty. You can wrap it over the rivets to keep water out.
Cheers
Mike
 

Mike Pass

Supporter
It might be worth mentioning that the the bolts for the Renault slave cylinder are an odd size 7mm.
I use Mick's AP clutch setup on my car. I have an adaptor plate to the Renault bell housing. After much trial and error I got to this setup. Chris Cole release bearing and upgraded carrier and sleeved down slave cylinder. I eventually settled on a 3/4" master cylinder connected by 1/4" pipe. Throw and pedal pressure acceptable. I removed the original riveted pin that holds the slave actuating rod to the clutch fork. I replaced the pin with an HT bolt and made up my own new rod of the correct length so I had a smallestl amount of backlash of a few thou. I believe Mick sells an adjustable rod for this purpose.
Cheers
Mike
 
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