I haven't driven my SPF GT40 in a few years due to a few factors. I got back in it today and found the brake pedal to be very stiff. I don't recall if that was the feeling last time I drove it. Anyone with experience care to comment? Could I have any new brake related issue with the car sitting for a few years?
SPF brake firmness
- Thread starter SpyderMike
- Start date
Oye, yet another issue to address...I hope it isn't too hard to access the reservoir. Gotta do some research.
What is the preferred brake fluid?
Mike, just as your fuel line post, replace all your rubber brake lines before you put new fluid in. Those are known to rupture as well after sitting. I use Castrol brake fluid. It should not be used to top off a existing system, but use after a complete line replacement and flush. I could not get that information to load on my phone.
Regards Brian
Regards Brian
Unless you moved the reservoir the nose has to be removed.
Lee Patterson
Supporter
Before tearing the car apart, exercise the brakes by moving the car some and gently exercise the master cylinders. Check fluid levels (reservoirs are up front under the nose attached to the AC cover - at least on newer cars - old SPF are on the tub next to the windshield frame). Once things sit a long time, stuff starts to bind up. SPF uses Wilwood calipers and master cylinders. They spec DOT 3 fluid. You can also use DOT 4 as they are compatible. Do not use DOT 5. Wilwood is now spacing DOT 5.1 which is the hi performance version of DOT 4 (NOT to be confused with DOT 5). Also exercise your parking brake if you use it. That could be stuck.
SPF uses Goodridge brake lines. These are not cheap. I would think twice before ripping them off. If necessary, a good flush of the system may be in order depending upon how lone the fluid has been in the system. Same for your clutch as it is similar.
SPF uses Goodridge brake lines. These are not cheap. I would think twice before ripping them off. If necessary, a good flush of the system may be in order depending upon how lone the fluid has been in the system. Same for your clutch as it is similar.
No room to remove front just yet...I have to fix a file leak first.
Once I fix that, I can move the car around and see if things improve. A flush/replace is in the future. I have one of the first SPFs, so it has to be up near the windshield frame.
Thanks gents! At least I got it washed yesterday...
Once I fix that, I can move the car around and see if things improve. A flush/replace is in the future. I have one of the first SPFs, so it has to be up near the windshield frame.
Thanks gents! At least I got it washed yesterday...
With some help from family, the front of the body is off and I will be trying to flush and refill the brakes and clutch. First off, I want to use my homemade pressure bleeder. Taking the old reservoir caps off tells me I have not taken care of this car...sad. I will want new caps and gaskets and perhaps can modify an old cap for the bleeder. I can't seem to find details on the specs for the original girling caps...I think it might be a P/N 64473143. Can anyone confirm this?
I measure about 2" outer dimension of cap, 1-1/4" inside reservoir hole and 1-3/4" outer dimension of reservoir threads.
I measure about 2" outer dimension of cap, 1-1/4" inside reservoir hole and 1-3/4" outer dimension of reservoir threads.
Lee Patterson
Supporter
Mike - google replacement Girling Master Cylinder reservoir caps. There are a bunch of hits. These may work for you - did not research the sizes.
www.pegasusautoracing.com
As for flushing and bleeding, get yourself a Mityvac System. You can suck all the old crap out of the reservoirs to start and then attach to the calipers for bleeding once you suck many tanks of fluid through. When bleeding the calipers do the UPPER OUTER bleed screw first, then the UPPER INNER bleed screw second on each caliper starting with the rear ones, farthest caliper from the master cylinder first. There is no need to bleed the calipers using the lower set of bleed screws (this all per Wildwood). I would use the Wilwood new 5.1 fluid. it is NOT silicone based like DOT 5. It is an advanced conventional like DOT 3 and 4. You can buy a gallon of it which you will probably need - get it in pints as to not waste it once you open one. I used a pint per caliper when initially commissioning my system.
Jack the car up on all 4's and get the wheels off so that you can run through the sequence of bleeding and testing. You can get in the car to see how firm a pedal you are getting as you progress. It helps to have a second person but I did it by my lonesome.
Finally, it you want to replace the Girling metal cans with the latest SPF aluminum reservoirs, I have the part numbers for you. They are not that expensive and VASTLY better than their original setup.
Hope it helps.
Aluminum Cap for Girling Master Cylinder w/Small Reservoir - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
This aluminum cap fits the Girling Integral Reservoir Master Cylinders with small reservoir. 2" OD, fits 1.75" threads.
As for flushing and bleeding, get yourself a Mityvac System. You can suck all the old crap out of the reservoirs to start and then attach to the calipers for bleeding once you suck many tanks of fluid through. When bleeding the calipers do the UPPER OUTER bleed screw first, then the UPPER INNER bleed screw second on each caliper starting with the rear ones, farthest caliper from the master cylinder first. There is no need to bleed the calipers using the lower set of bleed screws (this all per Wildwood). I would use the Wilwood new 5.1 fluid. it is NOT silicone based like DOT 5. It is an advanced conventional like DOT 3 and 4. You can buy a gallon of it which you will probably need - get it in pints as to not waste it once you open one. I used a pint per caliper when initially commissioning my system.
Jack the car up on all 4's and get the wheels off so that you can run through the sequence of bleeding and testing. You can get in the car to see how firm a pedal you are getting as you progress. It helps to have a second person but I did it by my lonesome.
Finally, it you want to replace the Girling metal cans with the latest SPF aluminum reservoirs, I have the part numbers for you. They are not that expensive and VASTLY better than their original setup.
Hope it helps.
Thanks for the advise Lee! I have been pressure bleeding for years. I am familiar with Mityvac as was the way I did it many years ago before I changed to pressure bleeding.
The problem I see with the Girling caps is that dimensions and thread pitch aren't described anywhere. There were changed to thread pitch at some time I read. I guess I just need to take a run at it and see if I get lucky.
I would be curious to know the SPF reservoir numbers as I head back there in two weeks and might be able to get them then. I will see how bad these look once I clean them out.
The problem I see with the Girling caps is that dimensions and thread pitch aren't described anywhere. There were changed to thread pitch at some time I read. I guess I just need to take a run at it and see if I get lucky.
I would be curious to know the SPF reservoir numbers as I head back there in two weeks and might be able to get them then. I will see how bad these look once I clean them out.
Lee Patterson
Supporter
The diameter and threads are listed on this cap. There are only a couple sizes:
www.pegasusautoracing.com
Here is the Wilwood part no. You will have to source lines and fittings from the master cylinders. Not sure how SPF ran the early car hoses.
www.wilwood.com
Aluminum Cap for Girling Master Cylinder w/Small Reservoir - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
This aluminum cap fits the Girling Integral Reservoir Master Cylinders with small reservoir. 2" OD, fits 1.75" threads.
Here is the Wilwood part no. You will have to source lines and fittings from the master cylinders. Not sure how SPF ran the early car hoses.
Wilwood Disc Brakes
MasterCylinder No: 260-12697, master cylinders, aluminum tandem, combination remote, compact master cylinder, go-kart master cylinder, handle-bar master cylinder, rebuild kits, high volume, hvm master cylinder, tandem, bleeding kits
www.wilwood.com
Thank you!
Lee Patterson
Supporter
SPF now mounts them to the front of the fake oil tank and uses 3 reservoirs. They can be accessed by simply removing the front clip insert.
Taking the front off isn't too difficult...just takes a couple people, some space and a couple of minutes. This is the second time I have done it in 20 years. The reservoirs look fine inside.
I am of the thought that the reservoirs and the caps were not meant to installed through that removable metal panel. It pretty much bottoms the cap out on the panel at or before sealing.
I saw a car at Superformance showroom that had evidence of this. Mine shows a little bit, but not nearly like this one.
I am of the thought that the reservoirs and the caps were not meant to installed through that removable metal panel. It pretty much bottoms the cap out on the panel at or before sealing.
I saw a car at Superformance showroom that had evidence of this. Mine shows a little bit, but not nearly like this one.
Re: Cap installed above panel - That’s clearly an uncharacteristic misstep on the part of Superformance..
Lee Patterson
Supporter
Those caps have the hole in the top. If the inner rubber gaskets are not solid across the inside of the cap, the hole allows fluid to spurt out hence creating issue. These caps were used on many British cars and hence the source of many issues. New caps with solid rubber seals inside would solve this problem. I do not believe the caps are bottoming out on the panel.
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
Actually a few threads on here where this problem had been identified on the earlier cars
