Stephan's SLC Build Log

Howard Jones

Supporter
Move the horns out of the airflow approach to the front of the radiator and back away from the airflow exit from the radiator. I have found the radiator I got with my SLC to be marginal and every bit of air restriction that can be remove from the radiator air path with help.
 

Stephan E.

Supporter
Hello Fran,

what I did was only precautionary since to this day I have not decided on the engine option or level of HP. It simply triggered a conversion to a different fitting type.Was just worried about a restriction in the system and reworking things after they had been already placed which is much more difficult with the condenser plumbed in.

Cheers,

Stephan
 

Stephan E.

Supporter
Thank you Howard,

I'll consider it. Just figured it was a clean setup that way. I am certain there will be changes along the way..

Cheers,

Stephan
 
Hello David,

thanks for reaching out. You are correct. It was an easy method to block air from escaping underneath the radiator. Another reason was that the condenser is only mounted on one side and the hinge will support the condenser along the entire bottom. It also can flip forward and you can work on the radiator since there are not connected. This is a solid installation and nothing had to be invented. The hinge is very light and an easy and affordable part to source.

Cheer,

Stephan
Thought it might be the case. But always better to ask than assume. Thanks for the info and pictures.
 

Stephan E.

Supporter
I was able to finish the front-end mechanically to a degree and will soon start with the electrical work. The front compartment is somewhat empty. I decided not to have anything in there to be exposed to heat. Brake lines, lift kit components and a few more things went into the passenger foot well. This will shown soon be in another postings. I had the splitter rods made from Billet 6061-T6. I think they go nicely with the suspension parts and the rest of the visible chassis components. I also considered to have some A/C connection points located near the front wall so the entire nose can be removed easily.
(I hope I never have to).
AC connections.jpg
Front Splitter_3.jpg
Front Splitter_2.jpg
Front finished.jpg
 
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Stephan E.

Supporter
When I made the decision to convert the Coolant/Heating system to AN fittings it triggered a chain of other decisions to be made. One problem was and still is that I have not decided on the engine yet but wanted to get the system finished to a point from where I could continue when the choice was finally made. The welding was done very professionally and it is a pleasure to work with 6061-T6. It welds like butter and is super strong. I never weighted the difference between the 304 Stainless tubing but I think I shed a few pounds off. All I can say is that future connections go anywhere from here...
Cooling System_1.jpg
Cooling System_2.jpg
Cooling System_3.jpg
Cooling System_4.jpg
Cooling System_5.jpg
Cooling System_6.jpg
Cooling System_7.jpg
Cooling System_8.jpg
Cooling System_9.jpg
 
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Stephan E.

Supporter
Thank you John,

I do appreciate the compliment. I may insulate the pipes with Lava wrap or foam insulation after leak/pressure testing had passed. It will be one of the later tasks right before I will set the body on and after an engine was installed and the system went through a few heat/cooling cycles.

Happy Holidays,

Stephan
 

Stephan E.

Supporter
Some time ago I was able to finish the Lift Kit installation. The pump went into the passenger foot area. I used 1/4" stainless tubing and -4 AN bulkheads with matching braided hydraulic hoses from the wall to the cylinder. No hose rubbing anywhere turning the front wheel in either direction. You can also see the evaporator drain line exiting through the floor.
Lift Kit_3.jpg
Lift Kit_2.jpg
Lift Kit_1.jpg
 
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Stephan E.

Supporter
Here are some additional pictures from the passenger footwell. I placed the A/C dryer can behind the evaporator using a nice bracket I was able to source.

The battery placement was a little bit more involved. To make a big box filled with lead look good and put it some good use helping with the weight and balance is not an easy task in a sports car when space is limited. I had some milk and cookies and researched what the market had to give on battery types and mounting hardware. I laid out the available space in the SLC and some parameters such as requirements for service access, oil/ intercooler, turbos, exhaust, heat, debris, appearance etc.
I found a spot and the battery is now completely out of sight. It is sitting center front axle. It went under the dash into the passenger footwell. To make this service friendly the battery was split in 2 x 6 Volt blocks which can be replaced without removing the evaporator. I exercised the replacement a few times and considered it only happens every few years it became acceptable. I added a footrest to cover the hydraulic pump and brake lines.
AC Dryer.jpg
Battery_1.jpg
Battery_2.jpg
Battery_3.jpg
Battery_4.jpg
 
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Innovative battery placement. Did you mill that holder? looks nice.
You doing a remote terminal in case you need to jump start it or use a battery tender?
 
Indeed, a very interesting battery placement. It appears you are using some hold downs to clamp the batteries up against the wall. Do you think the plastic base is strong enough to take the vibration and loading without cracking? I’m just thinking about the high g loading that happens when you hit something like a pothole. That case isn’t very stiff and the battery is fairly heavy, even if split into 2.
 

Stephan E.

Supporter
Thanks guys,

The only thing that will be added is a spacer between lower and upper battery since the lower one is already lying solid on the footrest. I called Optima technical support and according to them no other support is required (for the 6 Volts). The foot mounts are very thick and the single 6 Volt is not that heavy. I'll do it just in case. The hold downs are designed to support that weight and certainly the tray too. I had it assembled outside the SLC and there is no play or wiggle in that assembly. I'll add a terminal to the starter in order to jump start and charge if required. The battery tray is manufactured by "Optima Trays" but the internet is full of solutions for Optima battery placements.
 
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Stephan E.

Supporter
I am revamping the brake system. Removed all inverted flare connections and replaced them with -3 AN. The provided RBVs are not being used, wasn't able to trust them the way they are stamped. I went to TBM Brakes. That make the finest AN residual valves used in racing I have ever seen. Since I am trying to avoid to drill any holes into the chassis wherever I can, the related hardware stayed with the Tilton pedal box. Here is the outcome of the pedal box after revision 1. Throttle not installed yet. I fabricated a bracket for the billet clamp. I lined the clamp with an rubber insert and it holds the RBVs nice and tight. The completed brake system will be posted next time...
Brake system_1.jpg
Brake system_2.jpg
Brake system_3.jpg
Brake system_4.jpg
Brake system_5.jpg
Brake system_6.jpg
Brake system_7.jpg
 
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Hi Stephan,
I haven't read your build from the beginning so Im not sure if you are using the gas shocks to hold your doors open but if you do, you will have a problem with the passenger side as your heater lines are where the lower shock mount goes. That area starts to get tight to the body so you should check if you have room for the AC line you have already installed it may contact the body ??
Cheers,
Grant
 

Stephan E.

Supporter
Hello Grant,

Thank you for the advise. I am not using the gas shocks for the doors, only actuators. I dropped the body on the chassis and made a template for the space where the body curves into the wheel well on both sides before placing the lines. At that time I did not notice an interference. If there is in the future, the rerouting shouldn't be a problem.

Cheers,

Stephan
 

Stephan E.

Supporter
This is the second chapter of the brake system. I took some pictures of the front piping, connections and placement of the Tilton pedal box as I moved along. From here I will need to install the tub and driver seat to determine the position of the pedals before drilling and cutting the fluid hoses. I think this is a clean installation so far. Some electrical work has started as well as new the rear brake and clutch line installation which I'll post next time.
Brake system_8.jpg
Brake system_9.jpg
Brake system_10.jpg
Brake system_11.jpg
 
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