Steve's GT-R Build Thread

Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
#41
Looks great. Just got mine bolted in (for now).
I do not know how to transport car there. I think I have the column welded up.

But I might want to drop off the nose for "stance" and the rear to have your tail lights mounted in there. And as I get further along, more stuff....
 

Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
#42
Got the duct tape residue off the heads. Boring,
time consuming, smelly, but had to get done.
Goof-off better than goo-gone this time.


Made the bracket. 3mm from the rail, will add rubber cushioning.


 

Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
#43
2/10/2018. Got motor and Graz lifted into chassis. Need to lower chassis to floor, remove brackets from chassis (3 bolts). Clear brake lines and maybe wrap anything you do not want scratched with tape. I had to swap my chassis brackets from left to right and mount adapter plate on rearward side of brackets so motor would not contact firewall. Will clamp down crossmember to do drilling. Drill each side of frame rail separately, but mark both sides first. 8 separate drillings to ensure to bolts go straight through and that the bit does not miss the target by going all the way through. A pneumatic drill is probably best choice as space is limited. Bolts should be 3.5” long 3/8-24 so washers on both sides and a lock washer can fit. Use the cherry picker and load leveler to get things close enough to start all 6 chassis to adapter plate bolts and the 2 large adapter mounting bolts.





Could modify engine cross member and adapter brackets and drop this thing an inch. Worth it? Probably not. Dry sump makes it possible.



Had to swap my brackets to make it work and keep the motor off the firewall.





These two locators fit:



This one turned out too short, but Fran has a longer one on the way.



And here is the Holley bracket with Vintage Air Sanden SD7B10.



3/8" from heat shield, pulley looks closer, but it is camera angle. It is 1/2". May change to thinner heat shield in this area.

 

Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
#45
2/18/18 Moved brake lines outside tunnel, so if for any reason I had to move stuff around later, I would not need to re-bleed clutch and brakes. Drilled holes in front driver chassis and used provided hardline. Ran rubber fuel hose over brake lines to prevent rubbing on chassis. Testing gas tank for leaks- should have done this day 1. But as front clip comes off a dozen times in a build, no time like the present. With tank out, it let me solder crimped weatherpack connectors for added security. They ripped off as I was sliding tank out.
Held fine for usual usage, not so good as the connector got hooked on the tunnel and I yanked out the tank. Mounted coolant tank over oil tank. Thin aluminum brackets will need to be changed or added to as I do not want wobble. I bought a fancy seam sealer and it was junk. 3M Products Brushable Seam Sealer 08656 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Switched to metal caulk from HD. Love the color, and if I had skills, it would look amazing. Looks good enough. Race car.

Up next:


1. Build oil system, need -16 180 for filter. Catch can? Breather? Vac reg?
2. Trim panels for fuel system to clear engine mount.
3. Parking brake routing, clips to chassis. Need to decide if I will keep my current location of bracket.
4. Clutch line and fitting size. Looks -3AN
5. Need horns -ordered from Speedway $25
6. Start heater mounting
7. Tillett B5? I want to sit in them and see how they compare to factory seat.
8. Relocate transaxle locator rod ends. Cheap swedged tubes makes me think I can change locations of rods to allow more room for exhaust to come through.
9. Trim heat shield away from AC compressor. If it loosens, bad things could happen.



Here are the thin mounts. Can go steel or thicker aluminum. Easy one.



Brake lines exiting driver side frame rail. Plenty of room to just clip outside rail, but exposed lines make me nervous.



Excuse the mess. New brake routing.





Will need H's help doing the splitter mod. Dropping on the spider and sill panels to get him the car. I lack the skills to execute this task without ruining several parts.

 
#46
Just a thought about the coolant tank Steven. If you plan to track your car it may be a concern. If the engine overheats, that type of coolant tank just spews the coolant out the side. Some tracks may not allow that. Also it's location is in front of the rear tire and could result in loss of traction if it does spew. There is no way to hook up a catch can/recovery tank to it.

If it's just a street driven car than no worries.
 

Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
#49
Just a thought about the coolant tank Steven. If you plan to track your car it may be a concern. If the engine overheats, that type of coolant tank just spews the coolant out the side. Some tracks may not allow that. Also it's location is in front of the rear tire and could result in loss of traction if it does spew. There is no way to hook up a catch can/recovery tank to it.

If it's just a street driven car than no worries.
Thanks, will need to find a replacement for the spot. I am a member at Motorsports Country Club | Atlanta Motorsports Park

Plan is to drive it to track, run it for a few sessions, and drive home.
Will also bring to my local C&O.
 

Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
#51
H was kind enough to call me after seeing my post on the column and fix it correctly as seen above. Turning left may have been a problem with my welding.

Took it easy this weekend. Ran a half marathon Saturday for first time and did not have the motivation Sunday to tackle anything big.

2/25/18 Removed wing tabs from rear, grinding, painting. Mounted fuel rail fitting McMaster 5182K456 for -6AN. Modified vertical fuel panel for cutout of engine mount brackets. Made 1 brake line connection. Think I need some 90's for the splitter.





 

Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
#52
Got oil cooler and remote filter mounted by fuel panel. Completed brake lines and clutch line until the stainless flex -3AN on both sides. Ran some -12 oil lines. Still need to fab up the -16 lines on passenger side of dry sump to the tank. Pulled fuel cell out to test for leaks. None in tank, but tilt test showed I needed to tighten down the screws on the sending unit. Need to start mounting HVAC and figure out bulkhead. Need help figuring out the plumbing on the cooling system. The factory tank does not have overflow. It looks like I need inputs from radiator and steam vents off motor at top of expansion tank, from water pump and bypass valve to bottom of tank.




Can I use a T fitting for the top of the tank? Does anyone have an off the shelf tank? Is the diagram correct? Am I overthinking this?

This tank looks pricey but fits the bill: Radium Engineering Coolant Expansion Tank | (20-0270-00) – Modern Automotive Performance


 

Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
#53
3/11/18: Oil system nears completion. Peterson tank has -12 bungs that take -12 O-ring to -16AN male. The tank I have has 4 ports. So 2 -12 O-ring plugs. Peterson part 08-0505 plug x2, and 08-0503 -12 port to -16 male x2. I am trying Summit part MEZ-WP12016B for fitting and SUM-220231B for the plugs. Made last clutch line from driver rear rail to rear crossmember where I can run a -3 to -3 stainless braided line to the clutch fitting. Drilled and temporarily mounted Vintage air unit. Drilled 4 holes in firewall for AC/heater hoses. Ran AC lines and mocked up fittings from compressor to drier and AC/heater unit. Will finish up making lines once front clip is mounted permanently. Then off to crimper. Finished up -12 line from oil cooler to Dailey pump. Needed 5 more feet of hose to complete last -12 line from filter to motor.
 

Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
#54



Need to remove side skirts and bolt down hoses.
Then when getting closer to completion, go get hoses crimped and system charged.

Below is a brake line. Did not like the built in tool to deburr inside of tube after cutting it. Found this little dremel tool that works better than drill bit.




After:
 
#55
The Radium tank is very well made. Looks like it will last a long time but pricey. I would recommend 2 separate fittings/bungs at the top of the tank for the radiator bleed and the steam line from the engine. For the bottom you only need one fitting/bung for the coolant to "T" into the heater control return to water pump line. Canton seems to be the most popular choice for expansion tanks. I would add a second 3/8" npt bung to the other side near the top. They are available in a 1.5qt and 2qt size.

Canton Racing Coolant Expansion Fill Tanks 80-200 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Here is a tank that would kill two birds with one stone. It's a expansion tank and a overflow tank piggy backed on the side. It would save a bit of room and plumbing. It's a overflow tank though and just holds whatever is puked out and does not suck it back in on demand. No big deal though. The bung at the bottom is 1" and you'd need a transition fitting/hose to step down to 3/4". I would still add a second fitting at the top side to keep the two bleeds separate.

Moroso Cooling System Expansion Tanks 63782 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
 
Last edited:

Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
#57
3/18/18

1. Build oil system- finish -16 and -12 lines.
2. Mount Radium coolant tank and Dorman overflow.
3. Remove right side skirt and get hoses clamped down.
4. Get 1/4” steam line run from passenger side of radiator to rear.
5. Secure all brake, clutch, AC, oil, fuel, coolant lines to chassis.
6. Install heater servo valve.
7. Run rubber heater lines from tunnel to valve.
8. Install vacuum regulator and make line -6AN. Fits on valve cover directly.















Upcoming stuff:
1. Parking brake routing, clips to chassis.
2. Get doors and body back on.
3. Install grommets.
4. Install new -10 orb to an male, fittings, lines to water pump and heater valve. Can use barb and reducers, easier and cleaner to change out fittings.
5. Make 12" pipe for water pump, then measure for last 2 pipes.
6. Add brackets to AC unit under dash. Hanging by two is nice, by four should be twice as nice. Angle brackets, threaded rod or bolts depending on distance to cover.
7. Shifter cables, waiting on SLC new shifter.
8. Pull motor to do front pulleys and get right belt.
Lots of hose clamps.
 

Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
#58
Fuel system. Check.
Brakes. Check. (until leaks found when bleeding)
Oil system. Check.
Clutch. Check.
Cooling system. Waiting to get splitter mod done and re-install radiator. Stole pipes from radiator to fabricate water pump lines at motor. Will make more pipes once front clip back on.
Grommets installed for AC/heater, fuel lines.

Car on ground for first time since build started. Gotta get the splitter mod done, make sure wheel wells centered over wheels once that is done. Then will get body stuff started.



 

Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
#59
Been a while since I posted. Car has been out visiting H-Craft getting the splitter mod and some other much needed attention. You've seen my pics and know I can barely stick metal together, let alone weld. So here is some of the pro work getting done:








Also got the front suspension shimmed out to lighten the steering effort.





Nothing crazy, but getting some of the modifications as seen on Jared's car. It is really nice living only an hour from H-Craft.
 
#60
I like your custom exhaust flanges better than mine. I may have to persuade H to make me a set. Your car is coming along nice. Are you planning on leaving the gel coat finish? I like the color with the wheels.
 
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