Tornado Build - www.gt40builder.com
- Thread starter trevorsummers
- Start date
Thick card from an arts & craft shop. Some people use paper/thin card but I found the stuff I use is good as it helps replicate how the aluminium will fold/bend
Hi all
My mount arrived today for my Lucas 608 rear view mirror so I've been trying to take the mirror apart. I am having some problems removing the ball joint from its mounting plate. The plate is held in with with 4 metal tabs so what's the easiest way to remove the plate?
Any help much appreciated
My mount arrived today for my Lucas 608 rear view mirror so I've been trying to take the mirror apart. I am having some problems removing the ball joint from its mounting plate. The plate is held in with with 4 metal tabs so what's the easiest way to remove the plate?
Any help much appreciated
Long nosed pliers, and bend the tabs?
Tried pliers but end up damaging the tabs and they don't seem to be shifting. I read on an old post that someone suggested heating the tabs up with a blow torch but not sure if this is a good idea or not?
If I can't get the tabs pulled back I might end up cutting them off, fit the new ball joint and then drill and rivet the plate and housing together.
Trev
Hi Trev,
Bend the tabs back with a small flat screwdriver, it's pot luck but if you break a tab just get it tig welded back on or make a blob of weld over it.
Restoring old parts is something of a gamble, I know as I have 1920's nortons
In the last picture... is that ball and plate both steel, if so you can have it chromed as one without removing the ball and it will look and work fine.
Just a quick note about the rear engine bay panels, remember that you will need to drill holes in them for things such as alternator, starter motor cables , gear linkages etc.
Nice clean build
Bend the tabs back with a small flat screwdriver, it's pot luck but if you break a tab just get it tig welded back on or make a blob of weld over it.
Restoring old parts is something of a gamble, I know as I have 1920's nortons
In the last picture... is that ball and plate both steel, if so you can have it chromed as one without removing the ball and it will look and work fine.
Just a quick note about the rear engine bay panels, remember that you will need to drill holes in them for things such as alternator, starter motor cables , gear linkages etc.
Nice clean build
Well managed to get the tabs bent back using some 'gentle' persuasion in the vice. One of the tabs bent back fine the other snapped at the end but there should be enough metal left to bend it back and make a tab.
Next up was to fit the new ball joint from the mirror mount. The problem is the ball at the end isn't round and is taller than the one I am replacing. This means the ball is too big for housing Also because the ball isn't round I am not sure how easy it will be to adjust the mirror. I might have to take it to the local engineers and get them to match the shape of the old joint.
Keith, the mirror mount came from Charley Farley and is made of aluminium. Once it's fitted to the mirror I'll give it a good clean up and I am sure it will come up nicely.
Trev
Next up was to fit the new ball joint from the mirror mount. The problem is the ball at the end isn't round and is taller than the one I am replacing. This means the ball is too big for housing Also because the ball isn't round I am not sure how easy it will be to adjust the mirror. I might have to take it to the local engineers and get them to match the shape of the old joint.
Keith, the mirror mount came from Charley Farley and is made of aluminium. Once it's fitted to the mirror I'll give it a good clean up and I am sure it will come up nicely.
Trev
Hi Trev,
I wouldn’t too much about the engine bay in-fill panels, as once the engines dropped in, you can’t see down the sides. The only ones that will be visible are ones below the bulkhead removable panel. Although I’ve made them for mine, they won’t be fitted until after the IVA and possibly not at all!
Keep up the good work
Regards,
Andy
I wouldn’t too much about the engine bay in-fill panels, as once the engines dropped in, you can’t see down the sides. The only ones that will be visible are ones below the bulkhead removable panel. Although I’ve made them for mine, they won’t be fitted until after the IVA and possibly not at all!
Keep up the good work
Regards,
Andy
JimmyMac
Lifetime Supporter
Trev,
It's probably best to sling that ball pin in the trash can instead of trying to remanufacture it. It was obviously crudely made without a proper ball turning attachment.
You can get a precision made fitting from Jay Cushman for only £55 - check out his web site for some nice photos of it. I got one and it is identical to the original mirror fitting that Ali has with the exception that it is stainless instead of chrome plated.
It's probably best to sling that ball pin in the trash can instead of trying to remanufacture it. It was obviously crudely made without a proper ball turning attachment.
You can get a precision made fitting from Jay Cushman for only £55 - check out his web site for some nice photos of it. I got one and it is identical to the original mirror fitting that Ali has with the exception that it is stainless instead of chrome plated.
Happy new year all, still not too much to report.
The bearings are still being fitted by my mechanic and he's told me they will be ready to collect next week. Once the bearing housings are back I just need to bolt everything together and insert the stub axles.
The stub axles themselves have a little surface rust on them and so I want to tidy them up slightly before attaching them. What would you guys suggest is the best way to clean off any rust and freshen these up? Also when the stub axles go through the rear upright and through the bearing housings should I use any grease or anything on them as the build manual doesn't say to.
Thanks
Trev
The bearings are still being fitted by my mechanic and he's told me they will be ready to collect next week. Once the bearing housings are back I just need to bolt everything together and insert the stub axles.
The stub axles themselves have a little surface rust on them and so I want to tidy them up slightly before attaching them. What would you guys suggest is the best way to clean off any rust and freshen these up? Also when the stub axles go through the rear upright and through the bearing housings should I use any grease or anything on them as the build manual doesn't say to.
Thanks
Trev
Nitron Shocks
Hi all
Just got back from a day at Autosport International show at the NEC. While looking round the various stands I got talking to the managing director of Nitron racing shocks, Guy Evans. I've been looking at Nitrons for a little while and we talked about my Tornado and the possibility of fitting a set of Nitrons to the car.
Guy showed me an example shock that he thinks would work really well for the car and said they can create a specific shock setup for my Tornado once the cars brakes and wheels are fitted and the ride height determined.
Guy also suggested that once the shocks are ready for the car that Nitron would fit and setup the shocks for me at their headquarters in Oxfordshire. Guy also mentioned he'd be willing to help organise a trip for anyone from the enthusiasts club to come along, see the facilities and show the club my shocks being fitted and configured to show the benefits and reasons for correctly setup shocks.
I am hoping that working with Tornado, Nitrons & the GT40 Enthusiasts club we can get this off the ground and make it happen, watch this space.
Trev
Hi all
Just got back from a day at Autosport International show at the NEC. While looking round the various stands I got talking to the managing director of Nitron racing shocks, Guy Evans. I've been looking at Nitrons for a little while and we talked about my Tornado and the possibility of fitting a set of Nitrons to the car.
Guy showed me an example shock that he thinks would work really well for the car and said they can create a specific shock setup for my Tornado once the cars brakes and wheels are fitted and the ride height determined.
Guy also suggested that once the shocks are ready for the car that Nitron would fit and setup the shocks for me at their headquarters in Oxfordshire. Guy also mentioned he'd be willing to help organise a trip for anyone from the enthusiasts club to come along, see the facilities and show the club my shocks being fitted and configured to show the benefits and reasons for correctly setup shocks.
I am hoping that working with Tornado, Nitrons & the GT40 Enthusiasts club we can get this off the ground and make it happen, watch this space.
Trev
Doc Watson
Lifetime Supporter
With reference to removing rust I use this method.....
Rust removal by electrolysis
Be VERY careful especially when connecting the electrodes and also the fact that you will be producing hydrogen gas!!!! so always turn off at socket.
Worked a treat for my atlas axel drive shafts (cobra kit) and also my smiths heater box.
Andy
Rust removal by electrolysis
Be VERY careful especially when connecting the electrodes and also the fact that you will be producing hydrogen gas!!!! so always turn off at socket.
Worked a treat for my atlas axel drive shafts (cobra kit) and also my smiths heater box.
Andy
Hi james
Thanks for the interest in my build. I am based in the midlands near Coventry. If your ever in the area your more than welcome to come and see the car. If your interested in tornados it might be worth speaking to Andy sheldon and arranging a visit to see him as he isn't far from you and you'll be able to see cars at various build stages
Hi all
This will hopefully be the first of several updates today.
The first thing to update on is that the front and rear bearings have been fitted to the hubs. I picked them up at 8am this morning and fitted them before work. Starting to come together a bit more now and have started thinking about what brakes to get.
Hopefully have a couple more things to add to the car a little later today
Trev
This will hopefully be the first of several updates today.
The first thing to update on is that the front and rear bearings have been fitted to the hubs. I picked them up at 8am this morning and fitted them before work. Starting to come together a bit more now and have started thinking about what brakes to get.
Hopefully have a couple more things to add to the car a little later today
Trev
Time for the second of today's updates. The new aluminium just arrived for the rear panels of the car. In the end decided to go for 1.5mm 5251 H22. Initial thoughts are that it's perfect for the flat panels like the extra floor section I'll be adding but it's slightly stiffer than the aluminium I've used on the rest of the car. I'll see how I get on folding it but if the folds aren't as sharp as the other panels I'll keep this stuff as spare and possibly use it to make a battery box and order the softer 1050 H14.
Trev
Trev
New steering column
Time for the last update of the day. This afternoon I popped up to collect a new steering column from Andy & Jon at Gelscoe Motorsport. After looking at my old column and boss we decided that it would be easier for them to make me a new column with the boss and bottom spline welded onto the column as we wanted to reduce the play in the steering and also avoid using any adapters etc to fit a Gelscoe steering wheel.
The new column now needs to be test fitted in the car and measured with me in it so that the reach of the wheel is correct for my size. Once the measurements have been taken it will be sent back to Gelscoe for the final welding and then the steering will be ready to go into the car with a nice shiny new steering wheel, can't wait.
Also before I dismantle the rear suspension I thought I'd take a picture of the car in it's most complete state to date. Shame I have to take all the rear suspension off tomorrow, 3 steps forward, 2 steps back and all that. Still a lot of progress today
Time for the last update of the day. This afternoon I popped up to collect a new steering column from Andy & Jon at Gelscoe Motorsport. After looking at my old column and boss we decided that it would be easier for them to make me a new column with the boss and bottom spline welded onto the column as we wanted to reduce the play in the steering and also avoid using any adapters etc to fit a Gelscoe steering wheel.
The new column now needs to be test fitted in the car and measured with me in it so that the reach of the wheel is correct for my size. Once the measurements have been taken it will be sent back to Gelscoe for the final welding and then the steering will be ready to go into the car with a nice shiny new steering wheel, can't wait.
Also before I dismantle the rear suspension I thought I'd take a picture of the car in it's most complete state to date. Shame I have to take all the rear suspension off tomorrow, 3 steps forward, 2 steps back and all that. Still a lot of progress today
