Tow Hook in the nose

I was wondering what solutions people had for mounting a tow hook in the nose of the car somewhere, and still allowing the nose to come off/on. I'm especially curious what those of you with RCR cars do, since the nose structure is just bent aluminum sheet to hold the radiator and the front clip, and would probably immediately twist/bend. Do you run some sort of stanchion forward that mounts to the actual chassis, and put a removable tow hook on that?
 
On the ERA, not many places that don't require welding. You'd have to go all the way back to the area between the front lower A arm front mounts to add an anchor. If I absolutely had to tow, I'd run a long loop around the outer ends of the lower control arms.
 

Dwight

RCR GT 40 Gulf Livery 347 Eight Stack injection
I made a couple of aluminum plates and attach them to the plates that hold the radiator.
The bar and hooks are stainless. I like stainless and had some laying around the shop.

I don't race but I thought if I need a tow this setup will work. A rollback tow truck will not side load my tow hooks. So it should work.

The only other way to get a GT 40 onto a tow truck would be to push it.
That would take a lot of guys.
The 40 weights about 2400 lbs and it's easy for one or two guys to push on level ground. So I think my setup will work.

Dwight
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
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Looks good Dwight!

I have a modified front clip mounting system so mine tilts. I am planning on a length of Seat-belt strap that will tuck into the bodywork when not needed.. I've used that system before on cars weighing much more than my 40 so I think it should be fine..
 

Dwight

RCR GT 40 Gulf Livery 347 Eight Stack injection
Thanks Randy

I made a tow hook for Coach's Coupe. I don't have a pic of it before we installed it.
But it works. He has been towed twice.

It bolts to the cross member and is 6 or 8" tall with a place to use a cevis clamp and strap.

Dwight



I did a little more seaching of my files and found this pic

 
On the ERA, not many places that don't require welding. You'd have to go all the way back to the area between the front lower A arm front mounts to add an anchor. If I absolutely had to tow, I'd run a long loop around the outer ends of the lower control arms.
thanks Bob,I was hoping there was an better and easier solution.
the A arms are low on the street and when you tow it by an truck the front of the car sut be damaged , and thats even worster by cornering .
Simon
 
Hi Simon,

You can also fix a Tow Hook Strap on front of chassis car.
I will putt it on my car next year.
You can find them easily on Ebay for around 20 Euro from OMP.

Gr
Fred
 

Nick

Supporter
Simon Vels;460971when you tow it by an truck the front of the car sut be damaged said:
I have bought a tow hook as I hoped to do this, but this is also my biggest concern. I cannot see as present how you can mount a tow hook on the chassis without the tow wire catching some part of the front clip.
 

Dimi Terleckyj

Lifetime Supporter
Hi All

This is how I fitted my tow hooks which still allow the front clip to be opened.

I have had the car towed onto a flatbed tow truck several times during construction to have various things done with out any problems.

I also have the same tow hooks at the rear.

I made some chassis extensions which sit behind the two openings and ar very heavy dutyand even allow the car to be jacked up by the hooks.

Dimi
 

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Keith

Moderator
Apologies for thread drift, but had to comment. Just love that rad exit mesh look Dimi! Not seen that solution before. It looks elegant mate.. :)
 
Here is how I did the hooks to my DRB. The framework of the DRB's comes down to the front of the nose so adding the hooks is a bit easier. Because of body placement a spacer had to be added so that the hook would clear.


Most towing for me would be getting the car onto a truck bed, and the forces at play would be vertical rather than lateral. So I put them in the vertical plane and welded short pieces at right angles to keep them from bending. Putting them in vertically also means very little of the screening has to be removed. Measurements were taken and the least amount to be removed was taken.




In the rear the subframe for the engine and trans is available for attachment. Since I had the undercoating in place I opted to bolt this attachment to the frame



I sourced the rings from a chain saw repair shop. They have these as reinforced nylon pieces tor the climbers. Only cost $5
 
I guess I've been overthinking it to some extent. I've had this image in my head of the aluminum nose structure immediately being racked to the side by a momentary slack-and-tug scenario. Thanks for all of you who posted pictures.
 
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