You know what the SLC needs....
- Thread starter EFNFAST
- Start date
Upon reading that article, it appears a custom cam is also required
That article makes me think it's more effort than it's worth :laugh:
I still want to figure out if it's possible to do a 180*, my header builder thinks it might be from the pictures I"ve showed him, if not then just dumping straight pipes out the back (i.e., no mufflers or cats or anything, just 1 set of longtubes on each side poking out the back).
Still trying to decide on how the exhaust should exit - i.e., if I want the look of 1 exhaust tip on each side, or 2 (e.g., like a z06 exhaust tip)
I'm one of the least knowledgeable people on this site but I think I know the difference between a flat plane V8 and a cross plane V8. The difference is in the crank shaft and the firing order which results from the crankshaft. A flat plane crankshaft will lie flat on a table because its lobes point in opposite directions in a single plane. Half of its lobes will point to the left while the other half point to the right. A cross plane crank shaft will have lobes pointing in all different directions and will not lie flat on a table. A flat plane V8 will have the sound and vibration of a pair of I4 engines. They need balance shafts to run smooth and they make a very raspy sound. A cross plane V8 runs much smoother and has that deep rumble that's associated with American V8s. It makes slightly less power buts runs smoother.
See link > World's Fastest Electric Car: '72 Datsun (VIDEO)
I have actually spoke to Fran a few times and told him that I would like to build an electric SL-C, But my RCR40 is first on my list. I think battery technology has a ways to go yet so I'm in know hurry.
:thumbsup: No exhaust needed....
If I do an SL-C it will be electric and push 1000HP. Thankfully I have some local people here to help educate me in the process.
See link > World's Fastest Electric Car: '72 Datsun (VIDEO)
I have actually spoke to Fran a few times and told him that I would like to build an electric SL-C, But my RCR40 is first on my list. I think battery technology has a ways to go yet so I'm in know hurry.
Electric .... booooo, hssss, hsssss,
One of these sounds like a real mangly man's cobra, one, well, one doesn't sound of anything at all :laugh:
YouTube - Electric ShelbEV burnout for Supercars Exposed
YouTube - 1965 Shelby Cobra Drive
:drunk:
I keep looking....and looking.......and loooooooooking at pictures trying to figure out where you could possibly merge 180s*, but the only place I ever keep coming up is underneath the engine. Anybody see anything else after all this time?
Also, if you merged underneath the engine, and it were wet sumped, would you be concerned about header heat rising up and overheating the engine if you ceramic coated the headers and put an aluminum plate, covered in that gold foil heat reflection stuff, between the oil pan and the headers?
Also, if you merged underneath the engine, and it were wet sumped, would you be concerned about header heat rising up and overheating the engine if you ceramic coated the headers and put an aluminum plate, covered in that gold foil heat reflection stuff, between the oil pan and the headers?
Get brave, cut & reshape the rear bodywork to accomodate your 180° setup, could call it the 'Alex Go Faster' mod!!
Oh no no no no - I learned what happens when I get brave and start re-designing on my cobra -
followed by :shout::shout::shout::shout: followed by $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$Alex , your enthusiasm is infectious and I admire your determination but with the present rear clamshell configuration it will not fit without some major body rework and for what purpose-- Sound? Also something no one has mentioned and that is that the rear glass is acryllic and if you route your exhaust too close you will reduce that rear glass to taffe in short order( 450 degrees) and your exhust at full chat will be much hotter than that.
Also rather than running your exhaust under the engine and crushing them on our lovely road systems take advantage of GM R&D and build a beautiful set of headers that work within the confines of the body and believe me you wont be dissapointed by the sound and certainly the performance. Put the engine as low as possible and work your roll centers and CG's to your advantage and build a monster that will give you a rush like you never imagined.
Also rather than running your exhaust under the engine and crushing them on our lovely road systems take advantage of GM R&D and build a beautiful set of headers that work within the confines of the body and believe me you wont be dissapointed by the sound and certainly the performance. Put the engine as low as possible and work your roll centers and CG's to your advantage and build a monster that will give you a rush like you never imagined.
What happens if you remove the rear glass, route and merge the headers outside the body, then back down. Are we getting kinda redneckish at that point :uneasy:
180s are a nice dream, but yea, it looks like I'll just have to get my friend to build a regular set of longtubes from the heads back (it's a shame as he was pretty much willing to build the 180s for the same price as a 'regular' set of headers, just to do it and put his name on it).
Ooo, oooo, ooo, ooo, okay, this idea just hit me. What happens if you run the headers forward (i.e., towards the front of the car), merge underneath the car (so not under the oil pan anymore, but rather under the middle of the car), then 180degree turn to head back and out the back. If the exhaust is equal length would going forward then backwards affect hp/tq? :stunned:
(all this thought and I"ll probably still surrender in the end :laugh: )
(all this thought and I"ll probably still surrender in the end :laugh: )
Alex the problem you are gonna face when you start looking at yours in person is that the engine is pretty much up against the rear bulkhead and there is no room under the engine. There is a little room to either side but you also have to deal with the rear frame members that will make bundling tight. Not impossible but there is very little room to backtrack. If you wish to use radiators in the side vents or in my case intercoolers then you have the coolant tubing to contend with and as you can see it will get very busy very quickly. Also if you are running diff coolers and oil coolers you will have more fluid lines and brackets that will complicate matters also and then there are your half shafts that have some vertical movement that have to be allowed for. It starts to get very busy and there are only so many ways to run your plumbing then if you add a dry sump system as I have ( 5 stage Petersen with 4 gal reservoir) space becomes increasingly hard to find and still you must maintain some clearence and cosideration for heat dissipation. Sort your engine configuration out and see what space remains then you will have a better idea of the possibility
One thought Alex is that there is some room in the area where my turbos are sitting but this will require plenty of heat shielding like mine because it puts them quite close to the rear bulkhead and believe me it will get hot. Whether or not you can make the bend and maintain equal length will be a challenge to say the least. My stainless turbo manifolds caused me to reinvent the english language several times and if I ever venture to make something that complicated again I will invest in the ICE system for sure.
