RCR #010 Build Progress

[Keith]

Bill,
When I shortened the studs for my car a made a "small soft jaw tool" to hold them in the lathe. I would imagine it would work just as well to hold them in a vise to be cut by a hack saw or die grinder.

It was made from one inch aluminum bar with a 13/32 inch hole (I did not have a 12mm drill) and a 1/2 inch relief in the end to accomodate the shoulder on the stud. A saw cut was made on the side so that when it was clamped in the chuck it would grip the stud and it could be safetly cut.

I really want to see you on the road so we can hear some "road stories" ........... So if you want the tool let me know and I will send it to you. Or send me your studs and I will cut them for you and send them back.

I could not agree more with Dean's remarks. Torque every bolt and mark it with paint or a colored Sharpie. It is the only way to know for sure everything has been torqued.

Keith

 

[Bill D]

Thanks for the offer Keith, but we have the tools already to accomplish the job. However, I would like to know what size hex the pins are so I can buy one to fit my torque wrench.

Thanks

 

[EGLITOM]

Bill

should be 12 mm . Verify with a metric caliper.

TOM

 

[Jac Mac]

Probably stating the obvious here, but I hope your going to examine the studs & bearing flanges they fit of all four wheels very closely now for the possibility of this problem on them as well. Your knock off adapters should be a very snug fit on the center spud of each drive flange as that is what carrys the car weight-not the drive pins.

 

[Keith]

Bill,
Yes they are a 12mm hex. I also used RED thread locker. Since I did not have any metric hex drivers I purchased an inexpensive set from Harbor Freight......
Keith

 

[Bill D]

I'm off to HF.

 

[Chris Duncan]

It only made it one mile. Guessing those pins were only finger tight.

Concur too with the mention to use red Locktite. Also concur with rolling engine off to check for noises. Noise is one of the primary ways of finding problems, and these things are so noisy engine on you can't hear problems. Those backed out studs had to be making a heck of a racket if you could have heard them.

Lots of force loads with that much outer offset, probably pay to monitor everything on a regular basis just because of that.

Building a car always has shakedown problems, goes with the territory. My maiden flight the gas gauge senders weren't calibrated, said 1/4 tank and it was empty. On the rope tow back to the house (about 1 mile). The rope hook came off and busted both $100 electric fan blades and put a nice dent in the $900 radiator fins, luckily no holes.

You can make an internal hex driver from a 6pt. 12mm 1/2" drive socket and a piece of cut off allen wrench. Put a little strip caulk to hold it together.

Or you can find a Snap-On, Mac, or Matco dealer and get a nice one for about $25.00.

HF is usually JUNK. Especially for something like internal hex, it has to be high grade alloy.

 

[Bill D]

I think I'm going to replace both rear bearing assemblies with upgraded tapered roller bearing units. A bit more expensive. I talked to Dean Lampe about them and he agrees they would be better for my application.

Also, as noted by Fran and others, I will Loctite the threads and torque the pins per spec.

 

[Gus Richmond]

Bill,
How did you go with sorting your wheel bearings/pin drives?? Have you been fanging around with a big grin....

 

[Bill D]

The GT40 is all back together (thanks Fran). The new pins are Loctited and torqued per Vintage Wheels' specs. The wheels are safety wired and ready to go.

The movies are not the best quality. Diane took them but isn't real skilled in keeping the camera steady.

It's running rich and occasionally popping under acceleration. I need to work on the Webers some more. Shifting is real stiff. Probably because the trans is still new. Also, hard to find 2nd. And still don't have reverse. I'm going to give Lloyd at RBT a call Tuesday.

 

[Randy V]

Again - from the other forum - My hat's off to you Bill... Congratulations on a Major WIN!!!

Now - Go get those rings seated will ya!!!!

 

[Bill D]

I've spent the rest of the day making furniture. Hopefully tomorrow with Diane.

Do you think I should go from 37mm to 40mm chokes?

 

[Allen English]

Hi Bill, Great job getting on the road with your RCR :thumbsup:

Bill - Do you really need ramps to get up into the driveway?

 

[Bill D]

Allen-
The long front overhang hits. The gutter goes down and the driveway slants up

 

[Bill Dietz]

Congrats on seeing it going.

 

[Allen English]

Thanks for the input Bill. I also have a slight incline to my drive way and I had Fran ad the SLC style lift system to my RCR40. So it looks like I made the right decision getting it after all.

Now try to enjoy this car for a while and post lots of pictures for us to enjoy of your car.:thumbsup:

 

[Randy V]

Do you think I should go from 37mm to 40mm chokes?

I'd leave the chokes as they are - at least for now.. To upsize them will reduce your drivability around town even further... Smaller is sometimes better and I think in this case that is true..

 

[Bill D]

OK Randy. I have #60 jets installed. What do the emulsion tubes do? Should I change them?

 

[Randy V]

OK Randy. I have #60 jets installed. What do the emulsion tubes do? Should I change them?

Emulsion tubes entrain the fuel with air.. That way the fuel that's transferred up into the airstream is more of a bubbly froth than just wet gasoline.

I would leave things be for now until you get the engine broken in and then get yourself either to a track where you can play with it and tune it - or to a dyno along with a tuner that knows his way around Webers.

 

[Bill D]

Well, the car won't be running for awhile. The starter just spins and doesn't engage. Had to have it towed home again.