SouthernGT No8

[Andy Green]

Hi Martin,
I curious to know you go for etch prime & satin paint instead of powder coating, as this the method I was thinking of for my panels

Regards
Andy

 

[EGLITOM]

I also will paint my chassis and panels. Instead of an etch primer i will use a 2 K Epoxy primer which has an even better adhesion to alu. On top i will cover it with 2K PUR paint which comes from industrial application and is very though.

TOM

 

[SouthernGT40]

Andy the reason I would go for paint next time is its more flexible. A few areas the powder coating has come off ie where rivets have pulled the panel. It hasn't happened a lot but is annoying where it has. Easily touched up though.

 

[SouthernGT40]

Started fitting a sill today 6hrs later I recon I have another 4 or 5hrs to go. Who ever said building a GT40 replica was easy. Also fitted inner door handles the other day.

 

[SouthernGT40]

After some thought I decided to fit Hartwell latches purchased from Mark Sibley. They are a fantastic product but quite some work to fit into the bodywork, well worth the effort though. I have fitted the lights all round and finished off the door handles. Just two more hartwell latches to do on the nearside and fit the sills then all the bodywork will be complete. I will then remove the bodywork and start all the mechanical build. I have nearly all the bits I need to complete the car thanks to Mick Sollis who has been finding and making bits as I have asked for them. Will post some pictures soon of the progress. I need to keep up with Nick Brough who is rapidly overtaking me in the build. Game on Nick!

 

[Nick]

Martin,

I will always be several steps behind you, that way I can copy what you do. Also my skill is such that my car will look good from 6 feet away not 6 inches ( which takes longer) like yours. Although, my bodywork will only take a couple of weeks to do, not sure why it took you so long!!!!.

Oh all right then, Mick thinks, when the time comes and with luck it should only take him and Adam a couple of weeks for them to fit my bodywork.

 

[glen]

just read this from beginning to end, loveley build!! i've learned a lot.mine will look good from 20 foot. seriously:drunk:

 

[Jack]

Tom, hint...
look at www.rustbullet.com Teriffic product. Read up on it. The areas on my SL-C chassis (undertray, front wheel well area) were done with the silver/gray Rustbullet. Very tenacious, couldn't take it off with a chisel if you wanted to. Top coated the wheel well areas with hardshell black. Very little prep needed. Polished the remainder of the mono and suspension. Terriffic!

 

[SouthernGT40]

Big step forward today as I and Mike Pass managed to get the engine and gearbox fitted into the chassis.

 

[Nick]

Hi,

Great news after watching you a few days ago, struggle to take just the engine out, have you been eating 3 Weetabix for breakfast since!!!

 

[SouthernGT40]

In the past week I have done a large amount of work on the car. I have piped up all the front brakes and clutch plus some of the rear brake piping which was an ordeal in itself. The tilton pedal set is now fitted and has been done so that it can be moved forward and backwards without having to mess with the pipe work. I have also hung (temporarily) the offside rear suspension so that I can mock up the fuel system and gear change.

 

[SouthernGT40]

After a nightmare two days where nothing went right I have had a good day and got some work done. Practically finished the fuel system bar the breather/roll over part and done a load of panelling.

 

[Paul Thompson 'Hooligan']

Looking very nice there Martin - :thumbsup:

One thing though - If you are intending to use it for any competitive events you'll need to change the glass fuel bowls to metal items as they are not accepted on later builds by MSA. (or weren't last time I checked)...

 

[SouthernGT40]

Cheers Paul for the info. I bought the glass bowls primarily for road use as I found my old GTD would allow water into the fuel system. I was unaware of the ruling so will get some ally bowls for next year when I get my Manx Classic Trophy back!
While I'm on do you know if their is a minimum oil catch/breather tank size for my car?

Regards Martin.

 

[Jack]

OUTSTANDING job Martin, keep up the good work!

 

[SouthernGT40]

Thanks for the encouragement. After the last few days I was ready for throwing the towel in.

 

[Jack]

We all sometimes go backwards on a build. Learn from it then go on. The results are ALWAYS worth the effort required! You are doing a fantastic job, hang in there the tough stuff is almost done!

 

[Paul Thompson 'Hooligan']

Cheers Paul for the info. I bought the glass bowls primarily for road use as I found my old GTD would allow water into the fuel system. I was unaware of the ruling so will get some ally bowls for next year when I get my Manx Classic Trophy back!
While I'm on do you know if their is a minimum oil catch/breather tank size for my car?

Regards Martin.

Well it's mine at the moment.....:thumbsup:

I look forward to it and keep up the good work - your build looks outstanding! can't wait to see it in the flesh. (or should that be rivets... :happy

ps - I believe the min catch tank size for an oil breather to atmosphere is 1 litre, although I don't ever remember cars being picked up on it if it's less..

 

[Martin]

Fabulous build Martin,
Love the black panelling. Did you get the air con compressor from Mick or did it come from somewhere else. I will need one and the brackets to fit. I have the rest of the system.
I wish I was at your stage. Still waiting on my engine.. Yawn.
All the best,
Martin

 

[SouthernGT40]

Paul thanks for the reply and info. Should be a great Manx Classic next year.
With regards to the aircond compressor `I purchased it from a company called Airconco in Middleton Manchester. The model number is Sanden SD5H09. Its a compact unit and the same as one I had on my previous GTD. Mick Sollis does a bracket that utilises the fuel pump mounting.

Regards Martin.