Steve's GT-R Build Thread

I need to show you all how the mirrors were supposed to be assembled, the only part of the impala assemblies used are the motor and mirror, the housing is to be thrown away completely, once you have the motor and mirror assembly out of the housing measure the height from the face of the mirror to the mounting face of the motor, I guess around 1 1/4"
A plate of GRP or aluminum should then be bonded into the housing that distance down from the front face the motor can then be screwed to this plate and you are done. this is how i designed them to work.
Ill try and find some photos to help.
 
Here are some photos of the mirror set up
 

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Ken Roberts

Supporter
Andy can you place your right and left aluminum templates in a scanner and make a PDF that we can print out and copy on a sheet of aluminum or grp?

Compared to mine while apart it appears you placed the motor in a different orientation with the mirror (last picture with the mirror in your hand). I guess as long as we copy your pattern it's all the same in the end.

IMG_2602.JPG
 
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Steven Lobel

Supporter
Long time coming and lots of thanks to Andrew Jacobson and Brian at Advance Motorsports.



Tried to get this going yesterday. Had a different connector on cam sensor on front of block than the harness. So when I pinned into the correct connector, I reversed power and ground. Could get it to turn over but not fire. Re-pinned this AM and started right up. Then died flat as I forget to plug back in the MAF. Then it fired and ran. Now all the work begins on figuring out how to make the pedal read 0% when not being pushed. Currently reads 29% and goes as far as 84% when all the way to floor. Is this able to be calibrated on a tuner?

Next on the list:

Need to start planning out switches. Need to mount 3 HVAC, ignition key switch, Ram air switch, and a hazard button.
Mount headlights. Got the hella steel plates to solidify mounting structure.
Mirrors?


Run heater ducts and secure bottom side.
 
Long time coming and lots of thanks to Andrew Jacobson and Brian at Advance Motorsports.



Tried to get this going yesterday. Had a different connector on cam sensor on front of block than the harness. So when I pinned into the correct connector, I reversed power and ground. Could get it to turn over but not fire. Re-pinned this AM and started right up. Then died flat as I forget to plug back in the MAF. Then it fired and ran. Now all the work begins on figuring out how to make the pedal read 0% when not being pushed. Currently reads 29% and goes as far as 84% when all the way to floor. Is this able to be calibrated on a tuner?

Next on the list:

Need to start planning out switches. Need to mount 3 HVAC, ignition key switch, Ram air switch, and a hazard button.
Mount headlights. Got the hella steel plates to solidify mounting structure.
Mirrors?


Run heater ducts and secure bottom side.

Are you logging pedal position or throttle position? They are two difference PIDs... (Assuming you are scanning via HPTuner or EFILive).

Pedal position should read zero, but throttle position will never read 0 or 100 as its basically using the TB as as the idle air control.
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Are you logging pedal position or throttle position? They are two difference PIDs... (Assuming you are scanning via HPTuner or EFILive).

Pedal position should read zero, but throttle position will never read 0 or 100 as its basically using the TB as as the idle air control.

Just what the OBD2 scanner says. Do not have a tune outside of the factory ECU and have not looked into software or tuning yet. Hopefully my 28-84 range is what you are referencing and all is good. Still do not have gauges hooked up yet, just using separate oil pressure gauge.
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Deciding on wiring harness. Can run 1 fan off GM ECU. Might just add switch to dash for second fan for simplicity. Not much longer until ready for shakedown.

Consider putting a relay in that fan circuit even if there is already one within the ECU. This will only require a small amount of current from the ECU to trigger and will give you better current flow to run your fan(s)...
 
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