Steve's GT-R Build Thread

Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
Hey Steven
On the seat - are yor brackets on the right side of the seats and a higher bracket could be to the rear.
Then locate the hole bracket an inch higher and you will manage to fit seat runners (possibly not motorised but manual should work. (needs 1 inch clearance)

Ian
The seat is as low in the bracket as it can be. I'm 5'8" and with full tilt back in the bracket I have an inch from the roof with helmet on.
 

Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
2/10/19 Started mocking in the AC. Cut 2.5” holes through upper dash plate where SLC put the smaller 6 holes. I did not feel like making a manifold and wanted an easy install. Created my AC manifold with vacuum hose adapters. Shop Vac 2.5” to 1.25”. Will run 2 vents like Mark Setter did for defroster and 2 more in dash. Adding 2 more under dash in middle. The VA vents are 2.5” hose to 2 5/8 at dash. I cut 2.5” holes to start before I realized that VA has no instructions on what to do, but they sell the wrong size hole saw on their website. If you want to use VA vents, buy a 2.625 (2 5/8) hole saw. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-2-5-8-in-Hole-Dozer-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw-49-56-9633/202327754 Fortunately Nostalgic AC makes vents that fit into 2.5” holes. https://nostalgicac.com/duct-hose-vents/dash-vents/2-5-inch-pro-series-round-vent.html

Also got the dash cut apart to fit all the gauges into the metal panel and maintain ability to pull all gauges with 4 bolts. Tapped the metal plate 10-32 and made some backing plates out of 3/8” aluminum plate and tapped that too. JB welded it all together.

Made a small steel bracket for the wiper motor mount.
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Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
2/10/19 Started mocking in the AC. Cut 2.5” holes through upper dash plate where SLC put the smaller 6 holes. I did not feel like making a manifold and wanted an easy install. Created my AC manifold with vacuum hose adapters. Shop Vac 2.5” to 1.25”. Will run 2 vents like Mark Setter did for defroster and 2 more in dash. Adding 2 more under dash in middle. The VA vents are 2.5” hose to 2 5/8 at dash. I cut 2.5” holes to start before I realized that VA has no instructions on what to do, but they sell the wrong size hole saw on their website. If you want to use VA vents, buy a 2.625 (2 5/8) hole saw. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-2-5-8-in-Hole-Dozer-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw-49-56-9633/202327754 Fortunately Nostalgic AC makes vents that fit into 2.5” holes. https://nostalgicac.com/duct-hose-vents/dash-vents/2-5-inch-pro-series-round-vent.html

Also got the dash cut apart to fit all the gauges into the metal panel and maintain ability to pull all gauges with 4 bolts. Tapped the metal plate 10-32 and made some backing plates out of 3/8” aluminum plate and tapped that too. JB welded it all together.

Made a small steel bracket for the wiper motor mount. View attachment 97285

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View attachment 97289

SO.....I am an idiot. "Will run 2 vents like Mark Setter did for defroster and 2 more in dash. Adding 2 more under dash in middle. The VA vents are 2.5” hose to 2 5/8 at dash. I cut 2.5” holes to start before I realized that VA has no instructions on what to do, but they sell the wrong size hole saw on their website. If you want to use VA vents, buy a 2.625 (2 5/8) hole saw. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-2-5-8-in-Hole-Dozer-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw-49-56-9633/202327754 Fortunately Nostalgic AC makes vents that fit into 2.5” holes. https://nostalgicac.com/duct-hose-vents/dash-vents/2-5-inch-pro-series-round-vent.html"

Did not see this posted by anyone and could not find any data. 2.5" holes are the correct size. The vents from Nostalgic are the same vents from VA. They all use a 2.5" hole saw hole. What no one mentions is the vents are 3 pieces. The louver is clipped into the rotating bezel with 3 tabs. The bezel is held to the vent body by threads. So you drill a 2.5" hole and untwist the top of the vent off, then just screw it in through the dash. Ugh. So embarrassed. Some one will appreciate this one day.

Also, I did buy 60mm M10 bolts for the Graz to hub shafts. 24 total needed and I used the small lock washer as well as the linked washers (9P1501375) and 12 total used. 57ft/lbs and loctite.


Today's work was fixing all the leaks from my bad flares on the brake lines. Also took off the rear rotors and put them on the studs through the smaller holes. They were put on at factory for shipping. The rear calipers were finger tight so it was pretty simple. But lots of stuff easy to overlook.
 

Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
3/24/19 Brakes bled, lots of one line needed tightening, and the one line was rebuilt/reflared. Clutch bled, leaks at switch, fittings on Graz, standoff on rear frame. Can see clutch actuate when stepping on pedal. Need to adjust once on ground. Tilton has video on setting the stop.

Engine harness: Pretty much GMPP plug and play. MAF sensor long enough to reach back of engine, MAP sensor cut and lengthened 2 feet, CAM sensor defined and correct plug pinned on. Part is LS 3-Wire CMP Camshaft Position Sensor Connector Plug Pigtail WPCMP30 by ICT Billet. Pedal harness extended by 10 feet by soldering 16G wire. Ran it from driver rear under body panel to footwell and through grommet to foot box. Taped every foot, in plastic sheathing, will place loom holders front and rear to prevent droop. Alternator also needed differernt plug. Michigan Motorsports GM Bosch Alternator Wire Harness Adapter Connector LS1 LS2 LS3 LQ4 LQ9 LM7. Mounted engine computer on firewall in center where window would go. Fuse box for engine is same from Astro Van, will see if I can find an old bracket for ease of mounting. Starter wire kit installed. Starter wiring and switches to order. starter control, use the following parts: Ordered from ECS Connector 3579727712. Wire repair kit 979227E Wire seal 1J0972743

Slowly coming together. Might need the wiring harness in next 2 weeks. Ordered 20" rear rims, going to bigger tires.
Pirelli P Zero vs Michelin SS 335-30-20 rear 285-30-19 fronts.


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My alternator has a 2 pin plug, GMPP harness has 4 pin plug. Michigan Motorsports GM Bosch Alternator Wire Harness Adapter Connector LS1 LS2 LS3 LQ4 LQ9 LM7

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Soldering practice. Needed to watch Youtube video to get tips.

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Coolant temp sensor in back of block for gauges. The one in front of block is for ECU.

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Sensor in oil cooler. Pressure sensor in oil sandwich adapter. Might switch them around.
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My Cam sensor has a little bar blocking it. Correct plug listed above.
 
And take a look at my alternator. Can someone tell me what plug I need, the one I listed really does not look like it will fit. Awaiting Amazon Delivery.
My guess would be this one. https://www.eficonnection.com/home/product/bosch-2-way-black-kompakt-1-jpt-sealed-female-connector

Sold as a pigtail as well. https://www.eficonnection.com/home/product/alternator-generator-gen-iv-58x-ls-series-truck-connector-pigtail

It does look like the conversion harness you are waiting on....cheers!
 
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Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
4/7/19. Installed Jegs battery tray with 5/16-18 1.25” x4 through front glass and used pronged T nuts to dig into glass. Ran blue 1” conduit tube x2 down driver’s side under side skirts for +/- gauge cable and 2 sets of 9wire in jacket. Will ground all gauge senders in rear on a block and solder into 9wire to get into the cabin from front footwell.


Coming rear to front is :


AC clutch


oil temp


oil pressure


coolant temp


ignition wire from GM harness


tach wire


Fuel pressure


cabin Mil light


Starter wire to ignition switch


DBW pedal (running separately, extended with soldered and heat shrink in its own jacket)


And a few others.





Running 0 gauge ground from battery to DS18 DB1030 Distribution Ground Block - 1 x 0GA in/ 3 x 0GA Out mounted on inside frame rail at driver’s rear. Will run 0 gauge to starter bolt and to head. Will run another chassis ground from battery to front chassis. Adding a front outside, front inside, and rear terminal screw block for grounds. Bay Marine Supply BusBar – 12-Point Power Distribution Block – #8 Terminal Screws & 1/4” Stud – Black. Ordering red 0 gauge for battery to rear DS18 block and then 0 gauge to starter and alternator.


Horns installed up front behind and below the fans.


Drilled 1” holes in front of firewall as well as driver side footwell for wires coming and going. Plenty of 1” grommets.


Drained and refilled the lift reservoir. Changed from brake fluid to PS fluid.


Ran wires from Bosch 44 to GM harness and ground block and ran wires from Walbro pump for a few feet so they can one day attach to the RCR wiring harness.


Lots of crimping/soldering. Using a weatherpack single for the GM ECU fuel pump wire (gray) to a 12G red wire to the pump. Bosch 44 have M5 ground terminal and M6 positive terminal.

May add pics soon.
 

Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
4/21/19 Airbox fitted from Airrraid. Standard filter, 3 silicone connectors, and used 2 90 degree elbows of 4”. Will need to support with a u-bolt over the cross frame and build a pan to keep out heat , water, dust. Spliced the gauges and ECU wires into 9 wire conduit and ran it to the front in 1” blue conduit sleeve. Secured conduit sleeve to chassis. Mounted 0g positive junction box to firewall behind driver’s head.

Coming rear to front in 9 wire:

AC clutch: black to purple/black
oil temp: white to green/black
oil pressure: white to grey and red to grey/black
coolant temp: white to white black
ignition wire from GM harness: pink to purple
tach wire: yellow to green
fuel sender: white to white
cabin Mil light: black/white to blue
Starter wire to ignition switch: yellow to red
DBW pedal (running separately, extended with soldered and heat shrink in its own jacket)

Other wires:
lights
heater bypass harness
Reverse light off Graz

Hoping Fran gets harnesses ready for shipment soon.

Upcoming: Bleed lift system, remount surge tank panel, tighten fuel system, mount ECU fuse box, run 0g from battery to junction blocks, then 0 to starter, alternator, ECU. 0g ground to block, ground strip, and starter bolt. Have to sand dash and paint it, install AC vent hoses, fill extra holes drilled for factory seats and drill for the Momo's. Getting closer to filling coolant, fuel, oil, Graz with fluids. Brakes and clutch not leaking currently.



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I will make a U bolt bracket to support the airbox at proper height off Graz and so it does not hit the hood. Will also fab up an aluminum pan to block engine heat and debris from below.

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Here is the blue conduit wrap with 0g running through it and the 0g 4 way for the grounds.



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Positive 0g block up high. Battery 0g in and 0g out to battery, alternator, and ECU. Overkill to ECU, adequate for the others.

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Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
4/28/19. Ran the big wires. Stripped and crimped 0G. Front ground: battery to bus bar block on fan duct 4g. Will run another 4g from battery to inside behind dash for ground bus bar block. Rear neg: battery to distribution block 0g. 0g to starter (0g 1/2 ring terminal). 0g to head (0g 7/16 ring terminal). 0g to bus bar (0g 1/4 ring terminal) Positive: 0g to rear block. 0g to starter (0g 5/16 ring terminal). 0g to alt (0g 1/4 ring terminal). 0g to ECU (0g 1/4 ring terminal). Ordered tabs for ECU mount to driver side top rail. Tightened all AN lines, hose clamps. Cleaned up engine bay with zip ties and lined clamps. Removed material off of adapter plate to chassis mounts to better clear the exhaust. Gauges are wired together. Have ground, white to 12v acc, red/black to 12vHot. Will mount dimmer on gauge panel for ease of use. Things moving along slow and steady.





Upcoming: Awaiting wiring harness. Heard it is prototyped.


Upgraded rims to 20x12 in rear, with mods by H-Craft done I need to get bigger tires. Pirelli P Zero vs Michelin PSS.


335-30-20 rear


285-30-19 fronts


Anyone need a set of unused 19x12 CFV5 Forgestar’s in Orange? Also have tires mounted on them. Michelin PSS. Also have front tires never used. Oh well.


Need to run HVAC vent hoses from manifold to dash. Need to start planning out switches. Bought a Vintage air 2 vent panel with space for HVAC switched in center under dash. Need to mount ignition key switch,Ram air switch, and a hazard button. Unsure if anything else needs to get installed.

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Steve;

I noticed in your picture of the bussed terminal block that you are using fork-style crimp terminals. Those in the photo are actually too wide for the screws. I'd suggest that you change to ring type crimp terminals, those are more reliable as they are much less prone to coming loose.
 

Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
A little work today. Figured out how to mount my GMPP ECU fuse box. With help from Scott Stroud at Four Seasons Metalworks in AR.
I ordered 4 and only needed to use 2. Black powder coat or raw metal. $5 each. Why GM does not sell these is beyond me. Thank you Scott.







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Mocked up cardboard air filter pan and just cut some thin aluminum step plate. A few holes, some bending. Will probably go even thinner and ditch the top half of the clamp for thin stock bar. It all fits. I can loosen the large bolts and drop the rear of the pan to bolt up on my oil cooler mount.




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Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
Bled lift. One loose fitting. Lots of PS fluid to clean up. Range seems just shy of 2”.
Filled Graz 4L 75w Febi, may add 250ml more due to oil cooler and lines. Needed to run to HF to pick up 14mm hex head for drain bolt.
Tested fuel system for leaks. Small leak at top of surge tank and off Bosch pump. Quick snug up and all good. Need to adjust Aeromotive from 54 to 60.

Finished base of pan for air filter. Can add step plate to sides and around the tube for keeping out more heat. Modified the Airraid tube from 2x 90's to a 90 and a 60. Lays flatter.

Ran another 9 wire from rear to passenger front. Spliced 5 wire heater bypass valve harness from firewall bottom center to under dash switch. Have 4 wires to spare.

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Need to start planning out switches. Need to mount ignition key switch, Ram air switch, and a hazard button.
Upcoming: Awaiting wiring harness. Heard it is prototyped.
 

Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
Got the coolant and oil in this past weekend. 2 small coolant leaks made me redo a clamp and a chassis stay. Now all good.

Headlights do not look like they mount without additional parts. Getting the Hella mounting plate and hope to get a drawing on order of placement on each side of fiberglass.

And then there were mirrors. 2 power mirrors that do not remotely fit anywhere on the door. 2 mirror shells that are probably able to fit with trimming onto the door. I think I am supposed to cobble the two together, but without anyone else's pics or thread it appears fruitless to destroy both and the door. So that is on hold. Or it will be up to H. ;)
 

Michael Hampson

Newbie
GT40s Supporter
I got the same mirror conundrum, and think that indeed cobbling the two together was the intent. Stick the power mirror guts in the FRP housings. I might do something else entirely, because I don't really like those tall stalks and I am not going to be racing it.

Bah! Who needs a build manual!? That's for wimps! We'll just use a build manual (and Wiki!) for a completely different car!!!

BTW did your steering column come with the plastic shroud? (The trim around the turn signal/wiper stalks) Mine didn't and I think it will be a pain to find a steering wheel shroud for a 99-02 Olds Intrigue on the used market.

Michael
 
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