Has anyone been successful in installing ABS (Antilock Brakes)? I see online in other forums for other car types (modern and not modern) that MK60 ABS out of or based on a BMW system work amazing as a stand alone ABS system. It looks like it can be adapted to work with any car that has 4 wheel disc brakes. It seems reasonably inexpensive to do and relatively straightforward compared to other projects. In my opinion, ABS would be one of the best things for safety (and performance).
Anyone ABS brakes? Maybe MK60?
- Thread starter anorwitch
- Start date
I'd love to see if anyone here has done it already as well.
After my first rainy track day I decided to gather the parts to do the MK60E5. I've purchased all the parts, but waiting for some free time to start the install, because it's going to be time-consuming. The E5 units are easier/cheaper/newer and has internal pressure sensors (the MK60's require external input pressure sensors), but the downside is you have to use magnetic 'active' wheel speed sensors. (there is a converter from a company called "Happy Cactus" that lets you use the old style sensors). I'm replacing my hubs with C7 hubs at the same time since my car has the older C4 hubs which suck. The wiring is pretty straightforward and there are free programs you can use to adjust parameters like vehicle weight, center of gravity, etc). I haven't played with any of that yet. You'll need to build/flare brake lines to adapt it to the stock SLC lines but that shouldn't be too bad. The only other thing that I haven't seen consistent feedback on is the Tilton 600 master cylinders our cars come with aren't "ABS Ready" because of the types of seals they use. The seals can fail over time because of the design of the internal seals dealing with pressure pulses coming back from the ABS unit when it's active. I've seen guys say they last years, but others say they have issues. I'm thinking I'll try them out and just check for leaks after each track day.
I collected a bunch of links to resources -- happy to post them if you need them.
After my first rainy track day I decided to gather the parts to do the MK60E5. I've purchased all the parts, but waiting for some free time to start the install, because it's going to be time-consuming. The E5 units are easier/cheaper/newer and has internal pressure sensors (the MK60's require external input pressure sensors), but the downside is you have to use magnetic 'active' wheel speed sensors. (there is a converter from a company called "Happy Cactus" that lets you use the old style sensors). I'm replacing my hubs with C7 hubs at the same time since my car has the older C4 hubs which suck. The wiring is pretty straightforward and there are free programs you can use to adjust parameters like vehicle weight, center of gravity, etc). I haven't played with any of that yet. You'll need to build/flare brake lines to adapt it to the stock SLC lines but that shouldn't be too bad. The only other thing that I haven't seen consistent feedback on is the Tilton 600 master cylinders our cars come with aren't "ABS Ready" because of the types of seals they use. The seals can fail over time because of the design of the internal seals dealing with pressure pulses coming back from the ABS unit when it's active. I've seen guys say they last years, but others say they have issues. I'm thinking I'll try them out and just check for leaks after each track day.
I collected a bunch of links to resources -- happy to post them if you need them.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
I have it installed on my SL-C (not E5 model). I even installed a steering angle sensor so I can use dynamic stability control (page #54 of my build log). I wouldn't say it's easy to install or inexpensive though. To incorporate it you must replumb all the brake lines since each calipers brake line must home run all the way back to the ABS module. Then you must come up with room in the nose to mount the module. I did upgrade my brake master cylinders to a pair that are designed for ABS brakes (AP Racing CP9093). They cost about $800 though. I described the install in my build log (page 33-34).
Here is a picture of the modified pedal assembly. I had to upgrade it once again because ideally the front and rear master cylinder feed lines to the ABS module should be plumbed in 1/4' tubing.....not 3/16"
I built a second pedal assembly that is exactly the same as the one pictured (minus the AP Racing master cylinders). I was going to install it in my GT-R build but I abandoned that project. I would sell the complete pedal assembly if anyone was interested.
Here is a picture of the modified pedal assembly. I had to upgrade it once again because ideally the front and rear master cylinder feed lines to the ABS module should be plumbed in 1/4' tubing.....not 3/16"
I built a second pedal assembly that is exactly the same as the one pictured (minus the AP Racing master cylinders). I was going to install it in my GT-R build but I abandoned that project. I would sell the complete pedal assembly if anyone was interested.
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I hope that brake line is not really copper.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Its Cunifer brake line imported from Britain. Fully DOT legal. Purchased from Fedhill. All my brake lines are now run with this stuff.
For those that don't know it's also referred to as NiCop. Never buy this type of brake line from unknown sources such as Amazon.
I was hoping that was the case. For those who don't know- copper is not suited for brake lines or any application that cycles high pressure on and off. Copper work hardens and then cracks.
The key items required for installation are:
Wheel speed sensors (one per wheel)
Pressure sensors (measuring master cylinder outlet pressures for the front and rear outlets)
Yaw/Acceleration sensor
Signal to the ABS system that the brake pedal is pressed (this is typically accomplished using whatever controls the brake lights)
12v power
Ground
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The Mk60 sensors are active but they are not Hall effect. They are the Magneto Resistive (MR) type.
The resistance of the sensor changes as the teeth pass by. One of the two wires is 12V supplied by the ABS unit, the other wire is the output around 10V and the signal is represented by the the current -> 14mA current for high, 7mA for low defining the square wave.
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Wheel speed sensors (one per wheel)
Pressure sensors (measuring master cylinder outlet pressures for the front and rear outlets)
Yaw/Acceleration sensor
Signal to the ABS system that the brake pedal is pressed (this is typically accomplished using whatever controls the brake lights)
12v power
Ground
------------------------------------------
The Mk60 sensors are active but they are not Hall effect. They are the Magneto Resistive (MR) type.
The resistance of the sensor changes as the teeth pass by. One of the two wires is 12V supplied by the ABS unit, the other wire is the output around 10V and the signal is represented by the the current -> 14mA current for high, 7mA for low defining the square wave.
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