Bob's RF40MKII #134

Hey Paul,
I have two sets of photos taken, one in a studio and one set in an airport.(couldn't get the racetrack). They are for two different mags and I'll let everyone know which mags they are when the time is right. We are also making posters and sending them to people that have helped us and guess who's getting one. Posters will be done once the mags go to print.
 
The black beast is featured in the current issue of Zoom magazine. It's easy to find, just look for the cover. It's a really good write up with even better photos.
 

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Ragarding the Audi 01E box it's still in one piece and I didn't need the warranty exchange program. One thing I did find is the ratios were less than ideal (really crap) with first waaay to short and sixth waaay to long. One other thing I found is that it didn't like changing gears above 5,500rpm but that might have beed the oil? I used genuine Audi oil.
The box is out and apart now at the PPG workshop. They said that the box looked brand new inside, quite suprising as I suspected a bent selector fork from trying to select gears at 7,000+ rpm.
So we have started developing a new straight cut gear set from 1st through to fith and sixth is a helicoil gear ( for cruising) and all are dog select gears.
The ratios are also more suited as first is much taller and the rest is all close ratio. The gears will be stronger as we can put in bigger gears as we have more room due to no synchros being used.
By all reports, the case is pretty stout and the next weak link would be the C&P although we have a Quaiffe TBD.
So after about 6,000km of pretty hard driving and a little track work and 1 burt heavy duty clutch, the Audi box (01E) stood up to the test. Shame about the crapy ratios.
 
Hi Bob,

Thanks for the very good feedback regarding an "extreme use" application for the O1E. We might be able to extend the warranty program if they last this well under the punishment you've given it ! There is a big difference between asking it to transfer high torque (as you did) vs outright abuse though.

Which number trans did you have ? As you know there is a fair variety with different part numbers and ratios, some are more suited to particular applications than others.

Regards Paul
 
Hi Paul,
I have the DQS (047FX). The year model I'm not sure about but I do know it has the wider first gear. Looking forward to getting it back.

Bob
 
Hi Bobski,

Absolutely awesome car btw, love the look, the engineering skill and attention to detail that went into putting it together.

I am very intrigued about your water chiller setup, how much difference does it make to inlet temps? Are these temps big enough to make more Hp than is used to drive the compressor?

Regards,
Adam
 
Hi Mudgey,
The only time I have had it logged is when we were dynoing the car. It was a 22deg C day and the average inlet temps were 11deg C with a peack of 16deg. When we hit full throtle, the AC cuts out and robs no power from the motor. The tank is big enough to supply the intercooler with chilled water for atleast a minute before the water is re-circulated. I have a new datalogging dash on the car installed now and on the street it takes about 5 minutes for the inlet temps to reach ambient temp without the AC turned on. I cant give you a figure on the power gain as I haven't had it tested without the AC.
 
Yeah it's been a while since my last post but I have been buisy destroying clutches. This year alone I have welded one clutch and completly destroyed another and the car has been off the road for three months.
I have worked closely with Jim from Race Clutch Australia and have installed his first prototype of his 9" twin plate race clutch. Also in the photos you will see we had to make a new flywheel which and Chris (Flatchat) was responsible for this lovely creation.
On the run the clutch feels slightly heavier to operate but the gearchanges are lightning fast (with or without the use of the clutch), gear changes are also smoother and quieter.
On take off the clutch is a little harsh but it deffenetly feel like it will take the torque.
 

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Earlier this year I decided to upgrade all the rose joints to chrommoly billet ones with teflon inner bushes. WHAT A MISTAKE.
On my way to pick up a groom to take him to his wedding, the lower A arm rosejoint on the passengers side (left) broke in half while going over a small bump. Luckely the speed when this happened wasn't too high (80kph) and I had room to pull to the side of the road as the wheel locked up. Very lucky to have no body damage and the car in one piece.
The only real damae was a bent lower control arm which Jim C came to my rescue.
All of the rose joint were replaced with Aurora items at the vendors expence.
The reasoning the rosejoint failed I believe is that the material was too brittle and the thread was cut in rather than rolled in.
So please be carefull with which rose joints you use
 

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flatchat(Chris)

Supporter
Aaah!, so thats what it looks like, when its all together - eh ,eh .
We expect you to give it a damn good flogging --so that we can see if there's any improvements to be made.
The clutch, that is
 
fantastic looking car.
and that rose-joint experience...scary, must think when you drove very fast on the Nurburgring and than broke that joint...
you are lucky to get away whit that one, good for you and that nice car, some updates are not that as hoped for so it seems.
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Wow Bob... Close call!!

It would be interesting to show close-up pictures of what Rolled threads look like vs Cut-Threads so people could visually tell the difference..
 
Hi Bob
Love those door mirrors ,can I ask where you got them from?

Glad the car did not get damaged from the rodend failure.
 
Flatchat, the weather has been nice this weekend and had some fun in the car. The clutch is going great aand I'm loving it. Don't know about the tyres as they're strugling.

Hey Paul, the make of the rosejoint I'm not sure of as they're specially made for Motorsport Connections and they're their premium rosejoint that they sell. Most of the big name drag cars use them in Sydney. (Scary stuff)

Big-foot, mate that is the best shot that I have of the thread as I had to pass that rosejoint over to Motorsport Connections so they can run some tests on it. But a cut thread has the peaks very sharp and is what you achieve when you use a lathe of die to put a thread on a rod and a rolled thread is what you find on most good quality bolts. I'm not sure if that explanation is totaly correct is engineering terms, but that's how it was explained to me. Cut threads are aparently weaker.

Dave S, the mirrors were from e-bay and are carbon fibre F1 style.
 
Bob

was it one of the outer rose joints or the inner one ?

If it was one of the outer one´s i would also check for the shiming where they mount to the upright. If they are shimed to less you would put a lateral(compressing them =>bending load) load on them when you firmly bolt them to the upright. Could lead to exact the failure you got. THe A arm should go very tight over the upright.

TOM
 
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