bonding cladding?

[Dave P]

Hi:

Has anyone bonded their cladding to their chassis? If so what did you use? Will it adhere to powder coating or chassis paint?
I am concerned with cladding rattling as the rivets loosen over time.

Thanks in advance Dave

 

[Simon]

I think most people bond AND rivet (I do anyway)

 

[Ian K]

As Simon states - many bond and rivet. Rivets hold the panels in place while the
adhesive cures. The (proper) adhesive is usually more structurally sound over time.

Sikkaflex is one I hear being used quite a bit. And, I believe it will bond to paint and
powder coatings quite well.

Ian

 

[Chris Duncan]

"Has anyone bonded their cladding to their chassis? "

Yes, for strength and for sealing.

"If so what did you use?"

3M 5200 Marine adhesive sealant. Comes in a cartridge and 2 different cure times 1-hr and 48-hr. I used the 48-hr to leave plenty of time to re-position etc.

they also make 4200 for something that may need to be removed in the future, it's not as strong of a bond.

either cleans up with WD-40

" Will it adhere to powder coating or chassis paint?"

yes but scuff all contact surfaces, chassis and cladding, with a scotch-brite pad.

 

[Dave P]

Thanks for the help guys

Dave

 

[Jack]

I have used both Sikkaflex and 3M 5200 products (Seven clones). Please scuff the areas to be bonded and wipe clean with a damp cloth and allow to thouroughly dry. Acetone or Lacquer thinner could leave a residue. I actually prefer (for longevity) the Sikkaflex.
It's messier to work with but is quite strong when cured. A few years ago I participated in a testing lab experiment to find which adhesive properties were superior. The Sikkaflex came out best on every test (glued-in windows for boats, pressure tested until blow-out).

 

[Cliff Beer]

Highly recommend the 3M 5200 - that stuff is amazing. It cures underwater for crying out loud! If you bond it with 5200 that bond isn't coming undone. It might separate at the bond between the powdercoat/paint and the chassis but not at the 5200 bond.

 

[Jack]

I have had 5200 debond (Aluminum to steel) bonnet bracing after a few dozen heat cycles. At the time I simply wished to try it in that application. The aluminum expansion rate is quite different than steel. It seems that the 5200 also shrank somewhat during these heat cycles. This is not to say that it won't work on alloy panelling, it should work well. I prefer the Sikkaflex because it has a much greater expansion rate and superior elaxticity than the 5200. Again, the 5200 will work very well on undertrays, etc. For sure the 5200 is much easier to apply. Just my personal two cents.

 

[Mike Pass]

Sikkaflex sticks better to painted panels than powder coated. Also the powder coating has a greater tendency to crack slightly where the rivets pull hard down on the panel.
Cheers
Mike

 

[Jack]

I agree with Mike's statement about powder coated panels. That's why it is suggested to rough up the mating surfaces and clean them well. The 5200 may be bit better in this regard. I'd prepare the surfaces in any case. Either the Sikkaflec or the 5200 would be a good choice.

 

[Dave P]

Thanks guys! This is what is great about this forum All you need to do is ask and you can get great answers

 

[Dave P]

Thanks guys! This is what is great about this forum. If you ask you get great answers.

 

Can any of the above mentioned adhesives be used to bond aluminium undertray to stainless steel chassis?. I am thinking of making an undertray for the rear of my CAV GT40 and do not really want to drill holes in the chassis.

 

[Dimi Terleckyj]

Sibbat2

The only way you should bond an undertray permanently is if there is no chance you need to remove it for future maintenance of any possibility.

If the tray is going to restrict any access whatsoever to anything it needs to be removable easily.

Dimi

 

[Jack]

sibbat2,
Think about using rivnuts and some machine screws to fasten your undertray. Please don't attempt to bond it permanently in an area requiring removal or inspection.

Another "permanent type adhesive is a Plexus product which I have used to permanently bond aluminum to fiberglass panels. Some "at home" testing resulted in glass fiber separation, and no failures with the alloy or plexus bonding line.

 

[David Morton]

Maybe use Click Lock - a kind of Velchro derivative - but you might need to replace it (annually) as it does 'tire' out.

 

[Jim Cowden]

Each to there own ,I would bond the floor under tray.
Most chassis I have seen (space frame ) do not put any diagonals in the floor area as they rely on the sheet to stop the rhombus effect.
I always get a gut feeling screws would come loose eventually.

I used a sikoflex product for transport ind (cant remember the #)
I then used an automotive seam sealer in the corners.

Sibbat 2 I agree with the others if you need to take it off you have to be practical.
Jim

 

[RobGT]

Has anyone used PRC, as used in the aircraft world, to bond panels on their cars? Use tons of it at work for wet assembly, think its made by PPG.

 

[Doug Clark]

Hi Dave,

The other thing about rivets is there's rivets and there's rivets if you know what I mean.

I intend to use 1/8" Cherry Q rivets in all stainless construction, these are a structural rivet where the inner locks to the outer on forming and so is resistant to ratling loose.
Their shear strength is 700# each and they cost ~$300 for a 1000 (should be enough ;o) )from Aircraft Spruce

 

[geoff]

Hi All , Most important always use the correct primer on bare metal surfaces to be bonded . I always use Wurth KD bond with the correct primer. Sikaflex also has to have a primer,the correct primer is the key to correct bonding.