Just discovered my calipers are the wrong size, going to have to exchange them. 8726 instead of 8729. Got them from your neck of the woods SouthwestSpeed in Fort Smith. I 'm trying to do as much as I can indoors until I can get back in the garage.
The second rear upright is done and sitting on the shelf with the rotors on. E-mailed Darren about pricing for the rear Wilwood 4 Pot calipers with park brake. Sent the fronts back to get the right ones. Wipac 7" headlamp nest(buckets) arrived from the UK. I also have some Neolight 7" Marchall/Cibie clones, flat lens comes with H4 bulb and running lights. I will need PCS Head Lamp pigtail for the harness. I have tailights coming from TOM. I also need a couple of conical seat inserts for one wheel center so I can get it done.
You get my e-mail. Did you do the bearing carriers yet? I was thinking of using SKF GEZ-008 ES. Also the other stuff let me know.
For you other guys. I recieved the Wilwood Powerlites(KU9164) with hand brake from the UK. The ones I have are for a vented disc. The problems I ran into were with the Sierra drive hub/flange. The setup I have is for solid disc and running 13" wheels causes a big problem for the clearance of arms for the park brake. Started cruising Autozone and Bendix catalog for a rotor that would work. (found 9.25"). The Sierra flange is 6" in diameter and would not fit the rotor. I had some Ford Focus/Mondeo flanges and they worked perfectly. The only problem is that I will need a wheel spacer to clear the wheel center bolts. Very small interfearance with the outside of the caliper, not all bolt ends hitting. If I was running a 14 or 15" wheel I would not have this problem. The other problem I ran into once the I got the caliper to fit into the wheel was that the top hat depth on the rotor was .5" greater than the previous rotor and the rotor would not clear the casting of the upright(smaller dia). So yesterday I drew up my own Chevron rear upright. I figured if Leon can do it, so can I. This casting is smaller, shorter and narrower than the ones I have. This should work out. I am also sourcing parts that I can buy locally.
I have most of the engine parts I need. Machining the castings for belt conversion and ordering hobbled stock for the pulleys next week. Picking up new sensors and working on the DCOE intake vacum for MAP and fuel return valve. I will also have to place manifold temp sensor. Fuel rail waiting for MSD injectors. Coil packs tested and ready. This conversion drops about 40 lbs off the engine. I will be trying to run the water pump. I will be running the Gates GT2 HTD belts. There will be a double pulley off the water pump to drive the sump. One picture is of the Vauxall Retop setup that I am basing mine on.
Dave YouTube - GM Quad 4 engine with beltdrive conversion
Here's a bit more info.
I'd also like to thank Frank Catt for the Vauxall info even thought it did not pan out. Ron Seibenick for his info on his conversion(Quad4Forum) and Eric Bjork process engineer Gates Corp. Ron's running the older style HTD belt with electric water pump. His engine dyno's about 280HP. Belt will be 8M GT2 PolyCog x 30mm. Pulley's material from CMT out of MA.
Here's a pic of the intake. 45mm Jenvey's or TWM throttle bodies. I will be making up my own Hall Effect TPS. Digikey has some parts in stock I researched earlier.
Dave 72-Hour GUARANTEED Delivery on Pulley Stock OR WE WILL PAY THE FREIGHT!
Have the castings machined and fitted to the block. Little reaming required on the lower casting to get the bolts to line up. I have to mark the holes for the oil pan bolts drill and tap. I received the pulley material. I'm wondering how to cut it with band saw both pulleys together then do the hole in the center on the lathe and then part the the two. Awful big stock for my small lathe. I will have to figure it out. Going to take the water pump and press the impeller and shaft out and do a new longer shaft. Have a piece machined for a new support bearing. Here are a few pic's.
That look's nice. I have a contact in Belguim who wants to build too. You may be able to help him out. Look's like a track car to me and further along than I am. PM me and keep in touch. More pictures please.
Thank´s all of you
It all stared in 1986 when I saw a B16 in Norrkoping grandprix ,at first the intention was to have it road registrated with a modern engine/gearbox but with the years it got more to original 70 look with all that is included with that FVC/Hewland correct wheels ,uprights,gauges,wiper etc
I'm still here. I have not done much work on the car. Pulley's are cut for the engine and crank pulley machine but has to be broached for the woodrift key. I've had lot's going on that cuts into my build.
My mother passed away on Friday, but she's in better place, Alzheimers is a nasty and it hard to watch someone waste away that way. Hopfuly I will get back on track and get the the engine and transaxle done and mated . I will also get the changes to the chassis done and start where I left off.
How's the build going? Any updates? I'm new to the forum but my belated condollences on your Mother's passing. Mine passed a few years ago from the same. I do have a question for you. What windshield will you be using? Will this be a track only car or a road car? I want to build something simular in a road car. But finding a suitable DOT windshield is not easy (or cheap). Will you be considering selling bodies from your molds? They look plenty sumstacial for at least limited production.
I have been working on my home to get it ready for sale. I am going to look for some property outside the greater toronto area where I can get some property with a shop and go at this full time. Roger Andreason has taken back Chevron Cars LTD from Chris Smith and sent me an e-mail to see if I could supply bodywork for north america. I guess I'm the only he knows with a full set of molds.
As for glass it's just a matter of making up the patterns and form and getting some one who is still in buisiness to make them up.
P.S. If you are taller than 6' feet this is not the car for you.
Finding someone who can do that big & curved a windshield is not that easy (we won't talk about price). A friend is trying to get one made for his Devon & is having a hard time. They tell him to bend one that much will distort the glass in the center too much. I keep telling him to get one for a C-! Corvette. He can then have it cut down if he wants. Right now he's got the windshield from my Spitfire that he's playing with getting cut down. It is scratched etc. so I need a new one anyway LOL How's the build? getting anything done?