Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
This is very useful. My Marchal lights, which are NOS, use this bulb base, but I have been paying a lot more than that for spares. Much appreciated.
Chuck and Ryan's RCR Build
- Thread starter CESLAW
- Start date
I think you will find that an H4 bulb will work also.
They work in my Neolite's.
They work in my Neolite's.
Heat Shielding Revisited
A long time ago we reported on a heat shield to protect the fiberglass clip from the headers. Only an eighth of an inch separates the header from the fiberglass. Too much heat, too close. I won’t revisit all the points covered, like securing the shield with a Click Bond Stud Kit ordered from Aircraft Spruce, Part # 04-06020 (small). We did make a minor revision which follows.
A portion of the heat shield actually rested on the highest header. It was not long before the aluminum heat shield began to decay at the contact point. We used aluminum because it was readily available locally, but it was not the right choice.
We found reasonably priced stainless steel at McMaster Carr .024 thick, 24” x 12”, part number 8983K52. It was easily cut to shape with a sabre saw, after making a pattern to assure an exact fit around the clip opening. The width was cut down to 18” since the extra width was not needed. The rear most portion was bent to follow the shape of the clip. The bend also give the shield some structural rigidity. A picture of our domestically made budget metal bender is attached.
Two layers of insulation were placed between the stainless shield and the fiberglass. Aircraft Spruce, Fiberfrax 970J, Part # 05-02679. (Only a single layer had been used previously). This is a light material only an eighth inch thick with a temperature rating of 2300 degrees F. It is inexpensive and easy to work with.
The stainless is much better suited than aluminum in this application. We also prefer the look.
A picture of the old heat shield is also attached.
A long time ago we reported on a heat shield to protect the fiberglass clip from the headers. Only an eighth of an inch separates the header from the fiberglass. Too much heat, too close. I won’t revisit all the points covered, like securing the shield with a Click Bond Stud Kit ordered from Aircraft Spruce, Part # 04-06020 (small). We did make a minor revision which follows.
A portion of the heat shield actually rested on the highest header. It was not long before the aluminum heat shield began to decay at the contact point. We used aluminum because it was readily available locally, but it was not the right choice.
We found reasonably priced stainless steel at McMaster Carr .024 thick, 24” x 12”, part number 8983K52. It was easily cut to shape with a sabre saw, after making a pattern to assure an exact fit around the clip opening. The width was cut down to 18” since the extra width was not needed. The rear most portion was bent to follow the shape of the clip. The bend also give the shield some structural rigidity. A picture of our domestically made budget metal bender is attached.
Two layers of insulation were placed between the stainless shield and the fiberglass. Aircraft Spruce, Fiberfrax 970J, Part # 05-02679. (Only a single layer had been used previously). This is a light material only an eighth inch thick with a temperature rating of 2300 degrees F. It is inexpensive and easy to work with.
The stainless is much better suited than aluminum in this application. We also prefer the look.
A picture of the old heat shield is also attached.
Attachments
Chuck nice work. I love that you list part numbers for materials. This tips may prove quite handy when I get to that stage.
Chuck and Ryan, as ususal nice work and explanation. If I didn't know I was looking at your car I'd think it was mine because it looks identical. I've performed a band-aide repair to my area but will use your guidance as a more permanent fix. Well done indeed! Have you noticed any wear to the exhaust pipe? I was concerned so I placed header wrap around the area to cut down on both heat and wear. Good work and happy to see you and Ryan are still enjoying the car.
I also used header wrap, but it wore through fairly quickly.
There has been no wear on the header. Because it was in contact with the aluminum, the softer aluminum is what wore away.
Was considering wrapping a bit of stainless wire around the header. If anything were to be sacrificed, rather a cheap piece of easily replaced wire. Frankly I don't think it will be a problem.
Actually a five pound hammer blow to the offending header had crossed my mind. If if were dimpled down only a quarter to half inch it would probably eliminate any contact whatsoever and solve the problem. But the contact is slight and with stainless on both surfaces hopefully it wont' be an issue any longer.
Chuck,
That also crossed my mind, but I didn't want to be the first to say it. It may not look too bad if done right, or if it's hidden under the header wrap.
Hopefully this new solution will be the ticket.
I-Phone Speedometer. Is there anyone out there that does not yet have an I Phone? There are lots of useful apps, including one for speed monitoring. Just as an example, I am using Speedometer Pro. It is simple (a good thing) and easy to use. What also makes this app cool is that it records your maximum speed, accumulated miles, and direction of travel. It also has a “G” force indicator. It is a handy way to check the accuracy of the speedometer in the GT.
Attachments
Chuck
Is that your top speed as indicated ? Beautiful car and great information.
Regards Brian
Is that your top speed as indicated ? Beautiful car and great information.
Regards Brian
For those who don't have an I phone, any smart phone can have a speedometer/g meter on their phone. Just go to Marketplace and enter speedometer and you will get 15-20 most of which are free. Haven't figured out which is the best yet.
Bill
Bill
Well of course it is. You surely don't think I would post a fabricated image?
I can assure you that the indicated speed is an accurate and precise measurement recorded at 4500 feet in a Cherokee Six.
One is for the I phone and the other is for the I pad.
ZF Transmission Oil
Some recommend changing the fluid in the ZF transmission annually. The initial fill requires three quarts. Refills require 2.7 quarts. Fortunately when our transmission was rebuilt before we acquired it, a drain plug was added at the aft end.
So what fluid to use? Initially we used Valvoline 80W-90. But it is recommended that one use API GL4 and Valvoline is API GL5. Something to do with corrosive additives in the API GL5 that can affect wear of internal parts made from materials other than steel. Unfortunately API GL4 lubes are hard to find locally.
We did however find that Royal Purple High Performance Gear Oil, 75W-90, meets both API GL4 and GL5 requirements. The label describes it as using non corrosive additives. It is not cheap. It seems to work just fine. Shifts easily, no leaks, no issues.
The ZF is good for another year . . .
Some recommend changing the fluid in the ZF transmission annually. The initial fill requires three quarts. Refills require 2.7 quarts. Fortunately when our transmission was rebuilt before we acquired it, a drain plug was added at the aft end.
So what fluid to use? Initially we used Valvoline 80W-90. But it is recommended that one use API GL4 and Valvoline is API GL5. Something to do with corrosive additives in the API GL5 that can affect wear of internal parts made from materials other than steel. Unfortunately API GL4 lubes are hard to find locally.
We did however find that Royal Purple High Performance Gear Oil, 75W-90, meets both API GL4 and GL5 requirements. The label describes it as using non corrosive additives. It is not cheap. It seems to work just fine. Shifts easily, no leaks, no issues.
The ZF is good for another year . . .
