Cool soluton for hot problem
- Thread starter CESLAW
- Start date
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
I'd start with option 3. And line the inside of the fiberglass part with that Kevlar/silica stuff from Aircraft Spruce. If you can't increase the clearance (and you can't increase the clearance without either moving the pipe, squashing the pipe, or cutting away fiberglass) then you have to keep the heat from going across the narrow gap between the pipe and the bodywork. Multiple shields will work better than one, especially if there is an air gap between them.
The only other option I can think of is to remake the bodywork so that the curve and lip is duplicated, but further away from the pipes. In order to do that, you'd have to cut a strip out of that area all the way around, for example an inch wide, then remold the lip, sand and refinish the entire area which is black. A LOT of work, and headaches. I think I'd fit multiple shields first and see what happened.
Note that when the weather gets warm, this problem may return, unfortunately. Or maybe the ambient temp won't make that much difference. I hope it doesn't.
The only other option I can think of is to remake the bodywork so that the curve and lip is duplicated, but further away from the pipes. In order to do that, you'd have to cut a strip out of that area all the way around, for example an inch wide, then remold the lip, sand and refinish the entire area which is black. A LOT of work, and headaches. I think I'd fit multiple shields first and see what happened.
Note that when the weather gets warm, this problem may return, unfortunately. Or maybe the ambient temp won't make that much difference. I hope it doesn't.
HI Chuck I was looking at one of these with the rear clip up and it had been cut out in the area in question but from the out side it was hard to tell as there was a metal plate over the cut out area ( flat black it I remember correctly ) Stainless or Aluminum would dress things up and if I remember they had sandwiched foil faced insulation between this and the clip, Just a thought.
Keith
Lifetime Supporter
The shields have brackets welded to the underside and they are held to the pipe with stainless steel "hose clamps". You just orient the head of the clamp so it is not in view.
Keith
You can use click bond studs if you need to fasten a stainless steel sheet metal to the underside of the fiberglass without drilling thru the clip. use the fiberfrax under the plate and very little heat will get through.
CLICK BOND STUD KITS from Aircraft Spruce
CLICK BOND STUD KITS from Aircraft Spruce
Keith
Lifetime Supporter
Chuck,
Another solution may be for you to remove the pipe and make a wooden form block (actually a upper and a lower) to fit over the the pipe, then using a press (or a large vise) make the pipe slightly oval in the area that is making contact. You could probably gain 1/4 to 3/8 inch clearance by doing this and not change the appearance of the pipe much.
I had actually considered doing this before I remade my pipe.
Just a thought.....
Keith
Another solution may be for you to remove the pipe and make a wooden form block (actually a upper and a lower) to fit over the the pipe, then using a press (or a large vise) make the pipe slightly oval in the area that is making contact. You could probably gain 1/4 to 3/8 inch clearance by doing this and not change the appearance of the pipe much.
I had actually considered doing this before I remade my pipe.
Just a thought.....
Keith
Jim:
Looks like I will be placing an order with Aircraft Spruce, fasteners, insulation material, etc., as a first step. The lip can be tapered back a bit, so should a bit of space to work with.
Lynn:
You sure know your way around the Aircraft Spruce site. I really like the looks of the studs. Good idea ! Thanks.
Keith:
Had not though of that. I will try the shield approach before trying to squish the pipe, but that could be an option.
Just curious: Is stainless typically a candidate for ceramic coating?
The process of ceramic coating requires the surface to be as clean as possible. Any defects in the metal will show up in the finish. The surface is bead blasted with polyethylene beads, then the coating is applied and baked on. If you use the chrome or silver finish it will come back to you with a dull finish, but it will polish up bright with some Billet polish. Polish as you would any piece and finish with a shoe shine type action to get it shiny. If you never saw an old shoe shinner in action with a cloth, you won't know what I mean.:thumbsup:
Bill
Bill