Darrin's MMR BOSS based GT40

Hi Darrin, I posted the yaris power steering (EPAS) controller to you today, it went by airmail, so you should have it soon. Of course I could have told you by email and miss out on the publicity. K
 
As I am 6'2" and the GT40 is notorious for being cramped with foot room at a premium, I had to figure a way to give me a bit more room to actuate the pedals. So, what I ended up doing is having a flattened U shaped tube welded together and installed it where the pedals are on the top (in my setup the hot) coolant pipe. I then spent about 10 or 12 hours fabricating a housing for it that worked. Insulated the thing well inside and this is what I ended up with. No problems with the pedals now and the hot water pipe is far from my right (American car remember) foot. Of course the passenger side is compromised, but they don't need to work pedals and most of the folks who ride with me will be shorter anyway.
 

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NickD

Supporter
Hi Darrin,

Luckily i'm a short Ass at only 5.5" so I have acres of room in the footwell area. I've even brought my Pedal Box forward a bit. ;-)

Hope all's well.



Nick.
 
Hi Darrin,

Luckily i'm a short Ass at only 5.5" so I have acres of room in the footwell area. I've even brought my Pedal Box forward a bit. ;-)

Hope all's well.



Nick.


This car is perfect for you then. I've had to get the lowered seating area version, spend what seemed like forever getting the seat I wanted (I like adjustable ones...tilt included), then had to do this for the pedals and of course the Gurney bubble. I hope I get to drive this thing soon after all of this work. LOL
 
Well, after about a year of going back and forth between the Aluminator NA, the Aluminator XS, a custom built Coyote and even a brief fling with a 427 (Ford has a great deal on a 427 that makes about 535 HP), I've decided on a custom Boss engine.

It's going to take 4 to 7 weeks to build (7 most likely he said) but the result will be a bit stronger than the Aluminator XS both in terms of structural integrity and on the dyno. It will have:

- New 5.0 block that has been bored and honed with torque plates (I recall an old Smokey Yunick book that said that was a necessity as at least back in the day, he never saw one block that was "right" without it),
- Forged BOSS 302 crankshaft
- Forged Manley H beam rods with ARP bolts
- Forged Manley pistons (same static compression as stock)
- Billet oil pump gears
- Billet chain "tensioner" arms
- ARP head studs, main studs, etc.
- BOSS 302 heads
- BOSS 302 cams, springs, etc.
- Additional full port/polish on those heads
- Hi rev (8100 RPM) pulse ring as fitted on the Cobra Jets
- Digitally balanced, yada yada


I'll add the Cobra Jet intake, dual 65mm throttle body and 47lb fuel injectors I already have. Look for the update on this to happen early March.
 
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Hi Guys
I have made 6 different torque plates for an engine re-conditioner and the guys tell me that the difference with torque plate to without is about a thou and a half.
I must admit I didn't think that a block would move much at all.

Sorry for the thread drift Darrin

Cheers Craig
 

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Hi Guys
I have made 6 different torque plates for an engine re-conditioner and the guys tell me that the difference with torque plate to without is about a thou and a half.
I must admit I didn't think that a block would move much at all.

Sorry for the thread drift Darrin

Cheers Craig

Not a problem.

Here is the book I was referring to. Strongly suggest it for anyone wanting to know a bit about how to help an engine produce power and stay alive at high revolutions.

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Smokey-Yunicks-Power-Secrets-Yunick/dp/0931472067[/ame]
 
Well, after about a year of going back and forth between the Aluminator NA, the Aluminator XS, a custom built Coyote and even a brief fling with a 427 (Ford has a great deal on a 427 that makes about 535 HP), I've decided on a custom Boss engine.

It's going to take 4 to 7 weeks to build (7 most likely he said) but the result will be a bit stronger than the Aluminator XS both in terms of structural integrity and on the dyno. It will have:

- New 5.0 block that has been bored and honed with torque plates (I recall an old Smokey Yunick book that said that was a necessity as at least back in the day, he never saw one block that was "right" without it),
- Forged BOSS 302 crankshaft
- Forged Manley H beam rods with ARP bolts
- Forged Manley pistons (same static compression as stock)
- Billet oil pump gears
- Billet chain "tensioner" arms
- ARP head studs, main studs, etc.
- BOSS 302 heads
- BOSS 302 cams, springs, etc.
- Additional full port/polish on those heads
- Hi rev (8100 RPM) pulse ring as fitted on the Cobra Jets
- Digitally balanced, yada yada


I'll add the Cobra Jet intake, dual 65mm throttle body and 47lb fuel injectors I already have. Look for the update on this to happen early March.

Darrin....who is building your custom Ford Boss? Great selection!!
 
It's these guys. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oHwcR8sgwf4

They claim the heads I am getting are the same setup used on that pass....of course the cams I am using are much tamer than those I am sure and my block is only good to 1000HP or so but I don't plan to do any more to it than I have so that's not an issue.
 
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Nice! Sammy and I are hoping to have our CAV GT40s picked up this weekend out east and bought to Texas next week maybe here by New Years. Like to come see your car sometime.
 
Sounds like a nice motor and the way forward. 8000rpm will be sweet.

Here is the little gizmo that allows for that (along with everyone else in place to allow the thing to actually live at that range). Without it, I believe 7700 is about the limit.

https://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=22870

The Cobra Jet intake is tuned to make its peak power around 7750 RPM and it and the heads and cams will allow it to breath at that RPM.

Here is a similar engine (but with I believe stronger cams) on a dyno spinning to 8000. Doesn't sound as nice as say a 427 to me, but the thing should be more reliable starting, idle better in traffic, and even get about twice the gas mileage too. I know, kind of silly to think about that but it's still neat to think that a 500+ engine can get good fuel economy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-NZIOIhUiU
 
Darrin I purchased that 5.0L TI-VCT HIGH RPM COMPETITION PULSE RING and side by side with the one on the engine I could not see a difference. Mine was an aluminator engine. Anyone know what the difference is?
 
Nice! Sammy and I are hoping to have our CAV GT40s picked up this weekend out east and bought to Texas next week maybe here by New Years. Like to come see your car sometime.

Sure. Really looking forward to seeing the CAV GT40s as well. They look like great cars.
 
Darrin I purchased that 5.0L TI-VCT HIGH RPM COMPETITION PULSE RING and side by side with the one on the engine I could not see a difference. Mine was an aluminator engine. Anyone know what the difference is?

The difference is almost imperceptible but if you measure the spacing between the teeth you will find the high rev one is ever so slightly wider than the one that is stock.

This tells about it well.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...tween-stock-and-Cobra-Jet-high-rpm-pulse-ring
 
Small update. Here is what I ended up doing with the oil cooler. Should fit here OK.
 

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There isn't nearly as much room for things as I thought back there. Fabricated a bracket out of stainless for the fuel regulator to sit over top of my swirl pot. Should be just enough room to connect the inboard return fuel line. Wanted to get the fuel pressure gauge at a spot I could see it from the cabin...gonna have to twist pretty hard but I think it can be done.
 

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Borrowing the idea and inspiration from Bob's Tornado build, I made a shroud as well. My radiator is from RCR (nice company to do business with BTW) as are the fans. The radiator is made such that I didn't have to round the corners at the bottom which would have meant welding. Also, the fans are pretty big and just fit the radiator exactly (the fan blade itself is about 11" wide and the fan guard takes another inch or so on top of that).

My nostrils come in a bit lower than Bob's so the angle (and thus the bottom offset) is smaller than on his. I made my top come off about 1/2" and the bottom about 1.5". It's hard to tell by the photos but the inside edge of the fan blade is just inside the nostril and the closest point to the nostril and the fan is about 1/2 to 3/4".
 

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