DAX40 Return to the Road

[Ian Anderson]

Dave

Thanks for the heads up!

But the Rover lump is a bit different -anyway I'll have a good look / feel in next couple of weeks.

I do know that at build up I bought a really pricy piece of ali pipework to channel water to the top hose (about £300 worth from memory) - so many different hand done bends in it

Ian

 

[Dave Bilyk]

I feel I'm making good progress now, having replaced some hoses, I have now almost completed the cylinder head bleeds, (just need a couple of nuts for the bulkhead fitting) and replaced the old plastic header tank with an aluminium one.
Next Job, clip back all the pipes, run motor and check for leaks, then reinstall and seal bulkhead. Then finish off the seat belt installation and we're good to go.

regards
Dave

 

[Dave Bilyk]

Now the weather has warmed a bit and I am coming out of hibernation, I am trying to decide what upgrades to do, and looking for advice.

Starting with the engine;

Flywheel
First off, there is a bad spot on the flywheel ring gear, starter is ok just now.
It graunches now and again, hasn't let me down yet, but it soon will!
So, my options are;
1 shrink on new ring gear ?
2 Replace with lightened flywheel.
3 Alloy flywheel
Anyone have any idea re availability and cost of these in the UK.
Ok I won't know exactly what flywheel I have until I dismantle, but everything else is pretty stock.

Camshaft and lifters.
Last year I put on Edelbrock Performer RPM heads (60229 Intake 1.9" 60cc) and manifold, but the engine still has a stock camshaft with flat tappet hydraulic lifters.
So my plan is to go for the matching Edelbrock roller camshaft EDEL2221
Although the flat tappet camshaft can be bought complete with lifters, I don't see such a package for the roller camshaft, so I guess have to buy the bits seperately.
Any suggestions re components and suppliers welcome.

Sump
While I am at it, the sump is stock, and is the lowest part of the car, with a dent and scratches to prove it.
Is it possible / advisable to reduce the depth of the existing sump by 1" to 1.5" at the deepest point?

regards
Dave

 

[Andy Green]

Hi Dave,

I would only consider replacing the ring gear, as your other 2 options would mean the crank being removed to get it re-balanced with the new flywheel

If you are swopping from flat tappet to a roller cam, you’ll need to ensure that you block has the bosses in the valley to mount the installation spider (stops the adjusters from rotating)

You can do want you are planning & cut of the bottom of the sump and match the oil pick-up pipe to it or buy an 8” deep Moroso sump & pick-up pipe from the likes of Summit or Real Steel

Regards
Andy

 

[Dave Bilyk]

Thanks Andy,
points noted.
I will do the ring gear for now and consider a replacement next time.

Installation spider etc, wasn't aware of that one, I'll need to look into it. Does anyone have a picture of the lifter valley with bosses, or with installed spider?

Sump is the easy one

regards
Dave

 

[Dave Bilyk]

Guys, Andy, please can you answer this from a picture of the valley from the head change, boss or no boss? If no boss what do I do?
How green is my valley??:laugh:

Dave

 

[Jac Mac]

Green for go!!>>>>>>>>>>>>>


Check valve/piston clearance again with new cam, Rollers quite often have more duration @0.050" lift than flat tappet types

 

[Dave Bilyk]

Thanks Jac,
and in that case, there will be Rollin' Thunder in the valley!
I have now found the appropriate camshaft (2221) on the Edelbrock site and hunting down the lifter kit.

Dave

 

[Dave Bilyk]

Guys, can you help clarify for me
I looked on the Edelbrock site, and am confused about the installation spider.
As far as I can see in the Edelbrock info, the correct retro fit hydraulic lifters are part no 97453 which are the type shown below with guide bars.
The only time they refer to a spider (lifter hold down spider) is for SBC installation kits which lifters dont have the guide bars.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/misc/tech_center/install/9000/97453.pdf


Dave

 

[Jac Mac]

Those pictured lifters dont need the spider or related lifter guide horseshoelinks, the link bar allows you just drop them straight in the way they are, for a road car preferably get the ones with positive/pressure roller oiling or do the lifter bore oiling groove if you have not already.

 

[Dave Bilyk]

Great, thanks Jac,
now I see there is a cost issue here as the guide bar linked pairs seem to be nearly twice the cost of the single lifters and spider installation kit! For example I see that I can get a single roller lifter set and spider kit for about £217, while a set of guide bar linked lifters would be £390!!

So is there any opinion on whether there are any significant disadvantages in going for the much cheaper single lifters with spider installation kit?

What have you guys used?

Dave

 

[Dave Bilyk]

Ok, I think that question is answered, my supplier says that the later block will only accept the ones with the spider installation kit, so the cheaper option is go. He just wanted the valley photo for confirmation.

thanks for your help Andy and Jac
Dave

 

[Dave Bilyk]

Guys,
engine is out and on a stand, I am cleaning everything up, and have an issue with the sump. This hangs down 1" below the chassis and is almost scraped through. Now I can repair that, but what I am thinking is to cut and shut the sump 1" to 1.25" to clear from grounding. I will also need to reposition the oil pickup to suit.
If I do this as shown, I will lose 1 litre capacity from the sump.
I could claw some of that loss back by extending side and lengthways a little. Is that necessary or am I ok with 1 litre less?

Would it be ok to chop the sump and then baffle it so that the smaller quantity of oil is better contained during braking and cornering?

What are your opinions?

Yes I know I'm a cheapskate, but I havent seen a suitable rear sump anyway, and would like to save my dosh for other stuff.

Dave

 

[Dave Wood]

Guys, Andy, please can you answer this from a picture of the valley from the head change, boss or no boss? If no boss what do I do?
How green is my valley??:laugh:

Dave

I just caught this thread and if you are asking if that block has bosses for the stock roller cam spider, It sure looks like it to me. In some later posts you are talking about a retro fit kit, you shouldn't need one, just the stock stuff. It looks like someone has "retro" or is that "reverse" fitted a roller block with flat tappets. If you haven't already popped for a retro fit kit, I'd pass and just get a roller cam for a late model 5.0 with hydraulic rollers.

 

[Dave Wood]

Ok, I think that question is answered, my supplier says that the later block will only accept the ones with the spider installation kit, so the cheaper option is go. He just wanted the valley photo for confirmation.

thanks for your help Andy and Jac
Dave

I should have read further....

 

[Andy Green]

Hi Dave,
assuming that you have an oil cooler fitted you should be OK, however if you plan to do any track work you may need to consider a larger oil cooler or putting the extra litre back in the sump.

While you're modding the sump it would be worthwhile fitting a boss for an oil temp sender so you can keep an eye on the temp when you start pushing the engine (should be looking to keep the oil below 110-120 deg C)

Regards
Andy

 

[Brett James-McCall]

Dave,
Go to Dave Champ's old pages here: Events List

You can see what he did, if you need help, ping Brian Mageee, as I think he built it for him.

Brett

 

[Dave Bilyk]

Dave, Andy, Brett, thanks for your comments. Great piictures on Dave Champs' sump too. Still thinking about this one, and don't have time just now as I am fully employed writing reports and a conference paper for work. Will complete them this weekend, then I'll be back on to it.

Dave

 

[Dave Bilyk]

Long time no post here and I have to admit I've been somewhat lazy getting the engine back together and in the car. Anyway, here's what I have done;

Cut and shut the sump to get ground clearance. (I didn't shell out for a new one as I still harbour a dream of dry sump).
Installed an Edelbrock 2221 camshaft to match the performer rpm heads and manifold.
Replaced cast Iron chain-case with Aluminium one, sooo much lighter.
New ring gear on flywheel.
Re-faced clutch.

Finally fired her up today - woohoo!

best regards
Dave

 

[Dave Bilyk]

So what use is a post without pictures.

Sump. (see post 73 for original)
I cut and folded the wide bottom and having cut the sump back as shown in post #73 welded it on. Welding didn't seal too well, so I took it to work and the experts seal welded a strip around it for me.
The sump was somewhat distorted by all this, so I had to open out some holes, but it seems ok, no oil leaks as yet.

regards
Dave