Dean's GT-R build thread
- Thread starter Dlampe
- Start date
In the name of finishing loose ends, I mounted the hydraulic fluid reservoirs. Not anything to hard, just measure, mark and drill!
The lines will feed into the pedal assembly when it get mounted permanently.
The lines will feed into the pedal assembly when it get mounted permanently.
The front is not hinged. It will have a couple latches to hold it in place. Fran is working on that. There really isn't a need for me to hinge the front just because there really isn't much up there that I would need to get to or want to show off. I guess someone could hinge it if that was something they wanted to do.
I did take a few pictures of the fuel system and the expansion tank mounted. Again, it's hard to see the details so if someone wants to see something just ask.
I did take a few pictures of the fuel system and the expansion tank mounted. Again, it's hard to see the details so if someone wants to see something just ask.
The camera angle isn't helping but it is tilted at the angle of the firewall. I don't think there is a reason to wedge it out straight.
Amazing build so far. You're quick. What is your post filter mounted with?...looks like nylon braided.
That's called improvision! :thumbsup: I had some stainless steal band clamps that were just a little big so I slid them through a nylon braided -8 fuel line.
Fran had it powder coated for me in silver. After I got the car and started the build, I decided I wanted the exposed part of the cage black. I painted the black part myself.
Like I told Justin, it's a piece of braided nylon fuel line I slid over a stainless steel clamp that was a little to big.
When it comes to wheel studs on a race or performance car I hate to take any chances. I think the studs as provided are too short. Also, the front are 7/16 and the rear are 12mm. So in order to fix the mismatch and gain some length I went to ARB. The front studs came in the wheel spacers and took a little research. I went with 12mm all around. The front will require a Lexus stud. They were about $35 a wheel and the Chevy studs were $27. The same damn bolts, just for different cars.
Here are the fronts.
Here are the rears.
They are pretty easy to change. I just beat them out with a hammer and grabbed the front adapters, the rear hubs, the new studs and a 12 pack of Corona and went to a buddies house and used his press. The job is easier with a second set of hands and a few beers.
Here are the fronts.
Here are the rears.
They are pretty easy to change. I just beat them out with a hammer and grabbed the front adapters, the rear hubs, the new studs and a 12 pack of Corona and went to a buddies house and used his press. The job is easier with a second set of hands and a few beers.
I think the next car I get I will just have you build it! 
I changed the wheel color to gloss black and ordered some really deep orange lug nuts. It might not be for everyone but I like it.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Question about the front wheel adapters Dean. They don't look hub centric. A hub centric adapter has a lip protruding in the middle to center the wheel. These adapters look like they will be putting all the load on the studs which is a no no. Are there centering rings that mount in the adapter now from the wheel manufacturer?
Ken Roberts
Supporter
What size electric fans are used with the GT-R rad Dean? I'm trying to advance plan my build. I'm guessing my large mono C6 Corvette fan won't work on this type of car due to the way the air exits the hood.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
For reference....here is a correct and safe wheel adapter. The center protruding lip is machined to fit the center barrel of the wheel. This takes the load off the wheel studs. Almost all OEM hubs are machined like this.
