Dean's new RCR40 build thread

Here is a look at what has been keeping me up at night. This is my fuel system with a swirl pot that works with my "race" tank, a seperate "street" system, electric valve, three pumps, bypass regulator (not the one shown) and tons of wires, fittings and lines to be added at time of install.
DSC00133.jpg
 
Rob, they came from Bill Hough here on the forum. They are out of an original GT. I think it is really cool how well they fit the RCR. Everyone claims to be a copy of an original car. This just adds to the credibility of that statement for RCR. We are really moving fast now. I get to the bodyshop at 5:30 am, work till 7:30 am then go to work, put the kids and wife to bed then back to the shop until i can't go anymore, then repeat.

I am expecting three big boxes of parts from Fran. He mailed them on Friday so they should be here tomorrow. When they get here, I can really get moving!
 

Rob

Lifetime Supporter
Looking great Dean. You are quickly going to pass me up.....:mad:

Here's hopin your packages show up so you can keep rolling.....:D
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Very nice work! You guys are giving me all kinds of ideas for my car.. I'm still in the parts acquisition mode. I would imagine that Fran and the boys are going to get started on my chassis pretty soon..
 
Well Dean it is getting close. Now if you will quit pretending to work and get busy on that car you might be able to make it down here next month.

You're doing a great job Buddy, looks like another Kit Car cover to me.

Clois
 
Dean I hope that rhino liner holds up to the heat under the rear deck. I assume you are going to add some shielding for the exhaust. I asked the guys at rhino about using the stuff and they said it's only good up to about 300 degrees. Those head pipes will be way beyond that.
 
Dean,
Did the rear brake ducts you installed come from Fran or did you make them yourself?
Thanks
Ken J
 
Scott, I decided to run 2 systems because I wanted to keep the left tank exclusive for race gas. I don't run the type of events where I will need more than 15 gallons.

xlr8or, I only have the Rhino liner in the fender wells. I will use some foil insulation or an aluminum heat sheild.
 

Ron Earp

Admin
Scott, I decided to run 2 systems because I wanted to keep the left tank exclusive for race gas. I don't run the type of events where I will need more than 15 gallons.

Dean,

What is your motor situtation that you need two separate fuels? Do you have an ultra high compression motor that you plan to dial back timing on and run on pump gas, or a "normal" motor you plan to adjust timing up on and run high octane fuel?

Or are you planning to have a hot motor and street motor that gets swapped in and out fairly regularily?

R
 
Ron there are two reasons for the seperate tank set up. First, I do have a timing retard switch on the dash. My engine is around 10.7:1 and I thought it would be smart to have a timing retard switch to run pump gas. The real reason is that to use the swirl pot for both tanks, the plumbing gets even more complicated and I don't believe I will need to use the swirl pot for everyday running around.

Buzz, I am working on the car every free minute. I am really not sure if it is going to happen. There are a couple of parts that I need to complete the car that I am not sure if they are going to be ready. I am pushing the parts manufacturer as hard as I can and they give it a 75% chance. The car is going together very easily. From my end, it will be there if the parts are done. I am doing some things that are out of the ordinary and that takes more time.

I have a lot of pictures to post of the progress, I just haven't had time.
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Dean - Another option would be to use a Ford E-150 Fuel Tank Selector Valve.

Selector valve assy, p/n F1UZ-9B263-B $ 77.99 from www.fordpartsnetwork.com

This would give you one feed and one return line for each tank. I'm planning on using a valve like this but I don't think that a surge tank is necessary..

I'm curious if you have a Duck-Foot on the fuel pick-up and if the fuel pickup is in it's own valved chamber..
 
I have been very busy and haven't had a lot of time to post pictures and updates. It is all going extremely well. From this point on, I have cut the car in half. The body shop will continue to do work on the skin and i have the chassis at home to work some magic there. The last thing the body shop did was apply the sill beads courtesy of BillD's supplier. We used body filler to mold them in then we sprayed a spayable bond from evercoat to really build up the sill to make it look like a bead roll. The chassis is polished in the exposed area's although it is hard to see in the pictures and I am sure I will have to go back over it when I am done working. The guy in the car is a good friend of mine that is the master mind behind the electrical system. You guys thought the fuel system was complicated, wait until we start show ing pictures of the electrics!
DSC00161.jpg

DSC00070.JPG

DSC00067.JPG

DSC00068.JPG

DSC00069.JPG
 
I wanted to get the wiring laying in the car and start to get a feel for how it was going to fit. I took the fusebox wiring loose so I could run the rear wires to the back and the front wires and the dash wires to the front.DSC00072.JPG

I am going to run the wires down the center tunnel to keep them away from the AC lines and the cooling tubes.

DSC00073.JPG

I am going to cover the wires with a peice of PVC pipe cut long ways and fasten to the top of the tunnel. It was a lot easyer option than an aluminum peice bent to fit. After all my buddy, Craig, that is helping with the wiring is a plumber!

DSC00075.JPG

DSC00071.JPG

DSC00074.JPG
 
We started to wire the dash but for some reason the pictures didn't all get transfered to the computer. Here is the dash with the gauges installed and the typical wire nest that we have all seen before.
DSC00095.JPG

I was suprised that the dash fit as nicely as it did. I had read on another post that the dash didn't fit well, but mine fits like a glove! I will have to cut holes in the chassis for the AC vents and the speedometer will need a little clearance as well.

DSC00091.JPG
DSC00096.JPG
 
I finished up the cooling system on the front of the car. I mounted to the fans to a shroud the I cut from a template out of aluminum. I also found the perfect hoses, see the carquest part numbers. Then I just added the aluminum tubes and some hose clamps and that was about it! Again, this car is going together incrediblely well. I am amazed at how well the parts fit together.

DSC00089.JPG

DSC00088.JPG

DSC00087.JPG

DSC00090.JPG
 
I have also finished up the AC system to the extent I can. I am waiting on one hard line from Hot Rod Air that needed to be changed to fit my front swaybar. The lines fit very well.

DSC00094.JPG

DSC00099.JPG

You can see how I had to trim the radiator support to get the lines to fit down by the side as I thought they should.

DSC00098.JPG

DSC00100.JPG
 
I mounted the evaporator under the dash. This was one of those projects that I was not looking forward to but it went in very quickly. I just made the template and cut the holes.

DSC00092.JPG

DSC00093.JPG

Then we went back to the plumber for mor parts. I cut a 3 in piece with fittings and it fit under the dash beautifully.

DSC00102.JPG

I cut the holes in the chassis to run the ducts and installed the parts.

DSC00103.JPG

The defrosters will be drilled when the dash is fitted for the last time. The size of the holes will dictate the amount of air flow. I don't think I will need very much but at least it is there.

DSC00105.JPG
 
Heres what it looks like when it is finished up. I will lay a piece of foam weather seal under the plenum when I put it together for the last time. I just installed nut zerts underneath the plenum and bolted it down through the joint for more strength.

DSC00104.JPG

DSC00106.JPG
 
Back
Top