Dean's SLC build thread
- Thread starter Dlampe
- Start date
I'm about 6'3, 210. I think you would be fine. The seat will lay back even further and I could push the pedals further down to the point I can barely reach them.
Dean, I absolutely love your build threads, they are quite informational and inspirational at the same time.
I have a small request...one of the things I always appreciate about your builds is that you have a "vision" before you start and you seem to manage to stick to it. I am on the fence between a 40 and the SLC and your comment regarding the SLC being much easier to build than the 40 is intriguing.
My request is for some information regarding extra cost items you had to buy to finish the kit....not only a list of those items, but also their cost. I know that every build has some individualization added by the builder, but your vision for this SLC seems to be to finish it with as little added componentry as possible and that is how I would proceed, too.
Not now....more like at the end of the build.....I'll remind you as the build nears completion, but thought I ought to mention this little request now so that if you agree to it you'll have time to start making your own notations as you proceed. No worries about drivetrain, that's an individual choice, just the materials needed to complete the body/chassis build that aren't included in the kit.
For me, the big issue is always the fabrication. I don't have metal working skills or tools, so the "most complete" kit always attracts me the most. Your build is interesting b/c of the "bare-bones" approach you have taken!
Thanks for considering this small request, Dean!
Cheers!
Doug
I have a small request...one of the things I always appreciate about your builds is that you have a "vision" before you start and you seem to manage to stick to it. I am on the fence between a 40 and the SLC and your comment regarding the SLC being much easier to build than the 40 is intriguing.
My request is for some information regarding extra cost items you had to buy to finish the kit....not only a list of those items, but also their cost. I know that every build has some individualization added by the builder, but your vision for this SLC seems to be to finish it with as little added componentry as possible and that is how I would proceed, too.
Not now....more like at the end of the build.....I'll remind you as the build nears completion, but thought I ought to mention this little request now so that if you agree to it you'll have time to start making your own notations as you proceed. No worries about drivetrain, that's an individual choice, just the materials needed to complete the body/chassis build that aren't included in the kit.
For me, the big issue is always the fabrication. I don't have metal working skills or tools, so the "most complete" kit always attracts me the most. Your build is interesting b/c of the "bare-bones" approach you have taken!
Thanks for considering this small request, Dean!
Cheers!
Doug
Doug,
That is a fair request. I keep very accurate records on my build and I will be happy to share that information with you at the end. I really don't see much added expense with this build but I will list it all out in the end. I keep a pretty good stash of hardware but other than that, I am buying all new stuff for this build. One thing I have learned is that Fran can provide a lot of the stuff you will need. The trick is to know what you will need in order to ask him to add it to your order. I'll try to help with that too.
That is a fair request. I keep very accurate records on my build and I will be happy to share that information with you at the end. I really don't see much added expense with this build but I will list it all out in the end. I keep a pretty good stash of hardware but other than that, I am buying all new stuff for this build. One thing I have learned is that Fran can provide a lot of the stuff you will need. The trick is to know what you will need in order to ask him to add it to your order. I'll try to help with that too.
That's what I was wondering as well? is that safe to do?
FYI, Fran has a solid DD shaft & mounting bracket (requires some ingenuity to make it fit though) solution - it's what I'm using
Engine parts on the kitchen counter top!:thumbsup:
Yeah, Lisa's at a meeting tonight but I did take a picture of the scene just to prove I still have the power! (I have taken them to the garage already. Can't risk her coming home early.)
Anyway, these are a great set of LS7 manifolds that look like new take offs. This is a better manifold for side exhaust than the standard LS3 units. I think they flow better too. I had to pay $155 to the door but I thought that was fair.
Yeah, Lisa's at a meeting tonight but I did take a picture of the scene just to prove I still have the power! (I have taken them to the garage already. Can't risk her coming home early.)
Anyway, these are a great set of LS7 manifolds that look like new take offs. This is a better manifold for side exhaust than the standard LS3 units. I think they flow better too. I had to pay $155 to the door but I thought that was fair.
Wow, they look nice on the granite! I hear Chevy has millions of $ invested into those manifolds. Supposed to perform similar to headers. will you fabricate the collectors?
$209 on ebay rigth now, below. Might be a time saver?
C6 Corvette Z06 Exhaust Mid - Pipe OEM | eBay
$209 on ebay rigth now, below. Might be a time saver?
C6 Corvette Z06 Exhaust Mid - Pipe OEM | eBay
Dean,
what engine you will use? Can you tell me how much you paid for the gearbox?
Good luck,
Stefan
what engine you will use? Can you tell me how much you paid for the gearbox?
Good luck,
Stefan
Ummm... you do realize that in the photo one of the manifolds is inverted relative to the other, don't you? The patterns look to be mirror images to me.
LOL,, For the Win?... you mean WTF?...:laugh:
Well, it would make for an "interesting" REG,, I mean EGR setup.....lol.:dizzy:
Fut The Wuck...lol
From Urban Dictionary:
FTW: Intentional spelling error of the word wtf to emphasise confusion and bewildredness.
From Urban Dictionary:
FTW: Intentional spelling error of the word wtf to emphasise confusion and bewildredness.
The gear box was a deal that Fran was able to put together for me. Because it's used, the price will vary depending on availability. I think about $10,000 plus $2000 for a clutch. I think the gearbox is about $20,000 new from what I've seen. I am going to put it behind the LS3 480hp engine.
The exhaust flanges are supplied by Fran. I would hate to have to find them and build the exhaust on my own.
As I mentioned on an earlier post, don't post comments on this thread if they do not pertain to the build. I will do my best to always answer questions and I enjoy the feedback especially when it produces a better car but I need to keep the thread on topic.
The exhaust flanges are supplied by Fran. I would hate to have to find them and build the exhaust on my own.
As I mentioned on an earlier post, don't post comments on this thread if they do not pertain to the build. I will do my best to always answer questions and I enjoy the feedback especially when it produces a better car but I need to keep the thread on topic.
The gear box was a deal that Fran was able to put together for me. Because it's used, the price will vary depending on availability. I think about $10,000 plus $2000 for a clutch. I think the gearbox is about $20,000 new from what I've seen. I am going to put it behind the LS3 480hp engine.
The exhaust flanges are supplied by Fran. I would hate to have to find them and build the exhaust on my own.
The exhaust flanges are supplied by Fran. I would hate to have to find them and build the exhaust on my own.
You all know this is a track car so I asked Fran to send me some more cage pieces to give it just a little more strength if I'm in a high speed barrel roll through the grass. :lipsrsealed:
I tacked the front bar and dash bar in place in the car.
My son and I took the cage out of the car and went to my "dirty" garage to add the rear bars and finish the welds.
Here is the naked shell, although there is still more that could be removed.
If you think there needs to be another bar added somewhere, now is the time to talk about. What do you guys think?
I tacked the front bar and dash bar in place in the car.
My son and I took the cage out of the car and went to my "dirty" garage to add the rear bars and finish the welds.
Here is the naked shell, although there is still more that could be removed.
If you think there needs to be another bar added somewhere, now is the time to talk about. What do you guys think?
Hey dean I have never built a roll cage. But I do know about structural support thanks to my dad. I would put two maybe three bars between the roof bars. I would also put a petty bar from the passanger side roof bar at were it joins at the rear hoop. Then I would weld it as close to possible to were the roll cage meets the chassie on the passenger side. I might also do a x member on the passanger side door bar. I would attatch it from the front hoop to the door bar. Then do the same for the rear hoop to the door bar. If you can I would also do that on the drivers side. Also don't forget the gussets.
I have sat in the 01 car and it is a little bit of a deal getting in and out. I didn't want the full cage for the track day car. I have been in the shop today working on the steering mount and looking at the cage and really trying to evaluate how much is enough. I think its good for a amateur race car. I say that because the GT40 looked like this.
The top side bars are removable. This car was in a massive accident. It rolled twice in the air before rolling 2 1/2 times on the ground before coming to rest upside down. My buddy walked away with bruises where the seat belts held him. The cage did such a great job of protecting him and the car that it is completely rebuilt and ready for the track in the spring. I think the SLC cage is already stronger than the one in the picture.
I really think that if I had a roll over, the cage would protect me. Those are some thick wall tubes. I was surprised at how heavy the cage is when I'm moving it around in the garage.
The top side bars are removable. This car was in a massive accident. It rolled twice in the air before rolling 2 1/2 times on the ground before coming to rest upside down. My buddy walked away with bruises where the seat belts held him. The cage did such a great job of protecting him and the car that it is completely rebuilt and ready for the track in the spring. I think the SLC cage is already stronger than the one in the picture.
I really think that if I had a roll over, the cage would protect me. Those are some thick wall tubes. I was surprised at how heavy the cage is when I'm moving it around in the garage.
Howard Jones
Supporter
You could gusset the corners between the front and rear hoops and lengthwise roof bars. You could also add a bar (or two) running side-to-side (perpindicular) in the middle of the roofbars and perhaps even skip weld a steel sheet along its length.
The rear hoop could nave another attachment point at the bottom center like mine and Howards.
I need some of those newer door bars you guys have. I have the older style. Not sure which would be more effective protection in a worst case scenario, but installation without hacking up the door sure is a bonus.
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Guess I should have read the rest of the replies before I posted mine, but may have been worth repeating.
Howard, I welded in a 2x2x2 under that center bars' attachment point to strengthen that point. Probably irrelevant but it makes me feel better.
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