the kit comes with stainless steel straight hoses....we offer fully seam welded stainless steel as an option too
Dean's SLC build thread
- Thread starter Dlampe
- Start date
It does. I got side tracked and I left them in Detriot when I picked up my car. It was just easier to make new ones than to pay the shipping on something so cumbersome.
Fran provides nice stainless steel pipes with the ends already rolled.
(edit: Fran beat me to it!)
Fran provides nice stainless steel pipes with the ends already rolled.
(edit: Fran beat me to it!)
A small set back.
You know what that means, more welding. This took awhile to fix. Doing these pipes isn't easy. I actually had to eventually cut that corner out and start again. I think it took me as long to fix that stupid leak as it did to biuld the pipes in the first place.
I built some caps for the ends out of radiator hose, a pipe plug, a tire valve and a few hose clamps.
I tested the lines again by pumping air into them and putting them in the water. I wasn't sure that was good enough so I clamped them all together and filled them with water. I pumped the pressure up to 25 psi and let them set for a few hours. It look like it is finally sealed up.
I was talking to a few other SLC owners about the lines and they thought the heat from the lines created added heat in the foot box so I wrapped them in header wrap.
I have some abrasion resistant shrink tube from McMaster Carr that I want to put on but I need to wait for the tape to dry. (header wrap needs to be wrapped wet if you haven't done it before)
You know what that means, more welding. This took awhile to fix. Doing these pipes isn't easy. I actually had to eventually cut that corner out and start again. I think it took me as long to fix that stupid leak as it did to biuld the pipes in the first place.
I built some caps for the ends out of radiator hose, a pipe plug, a tire valve and a few hose clamps.
I tested the lines again by pumping air into them and putting them in the water. I wasn't sure that was good enough so I clamped them all together and filled them with water. I pumped the pressure up to 25 psi and let them set for a few hours. It look like it is finally sealed up.
I was talking to a few other SLC owners about the lines and they thought the heat from the lines created added heat in the foot box so I wrapped them in header wrap.
I have some abrasion resistant shrink tube from McMaster Carr that I want to put on but I need to wait for the tape to dry. (header wrap needs to be wrapped wet if you haven't done it before)
Dean
don´t know how good you are in wedling, but welding something like that plain steel should not be leaking like that. So either your cuts have not fit perfectly before welding them and you needed to much material to close it or you welded with to much penetration ( and probably fall through) . In any of this cases i doubt that this pipes can stand the expansion and contracting , plus the vibes , plus the pressure.
Do yourself a favor and use this pipes as a template and give the task to a proffesional pipe builder who builts that for you in stainless or alu.
another german PITA reco, sorry:thumbsup:
TOM
don´t know how good you are in wedling, but welding something like that plain steel should not be leaking like that. So either your cuts have not fit perfectly before welding them and you needed to much material to close it or you welded with to much penetration ( and probably fall through) . In any of this cases i doubt that this pipes can stand the expansion and contracting , plus the vibes , plus the pressure.
Do yourself a favor and use this pipes as a template and give the task to a proffesional pipe builder who builts that for you in stainless or alu.
another german PITA reco, sorry:thumbsup:
TOM
Tom the leak was more likely porosity, not enough penetration or a bad tie in to the start of the weld, most common mistake is removing to much weld with the grinder.
a little trick to check to see if there is cracking or pin holes just under the surface is to heat it up just over red hot and this should pop them open. As for expansion and contracting will not be a problem if the welds are sound, the carbon pipe will handle the any dynamic or harmomic vibration the car will endure as they will be attached at multiple locations.
If Dean has any questions whether they are going to work he just needs test to double the expected operating pressure if that passes then the rubber hose's should fail before the tubes will.
Cheers,
a little trick to check to see if there is cracking or pin holes just under the surface is to heat it up just over red hot and this should pop them open. As for expansion and contracting will not be a problem if the welds are sound, the carbon pipe will handle the any dynamic or harmomic vibration the car will endure as they will be attached at multiple locations.
If Dean has any questions whether they are going to work he just needs test to double the expected operating pressure if that passes then the rubber hose's should fail before the tubes will.
Cheers,
Tom, Thanks for the advice. I think you kept me on track with the seats but I think grant is right on the pipes. They are welded pretty good for a hobby guy. I found the pin hole with the grinder and cut the entire section out and re-welded the whole joint. I did use a higher level of pressure to test the pipes. It will hold water at 25 psi all night long. That is way above the 14 psi cap I will likely use.
I appreciate all the feedback I can get, I might go a different direction, but I apreciate it!:thumbsup: Keep it coming.
I appreciate all the feedback I can get, I might go a different direction, but I apreciate it!:thumbsup: Keep it coming.
Dean for the heat you could also put some sort of heat reflector on the firewall by the feet. You could also add 3m under liner in the foot well. With the heat reflector, header wrap, and under liner your feet should be fine. The 3m stuff in a rattle can is like 20-30 dollars. Let me tell you this two cans are enough to cover a 48in snow blower. I laid it on pretty thick.
I finished installing the cooling lines yesterday. I used some simple clamps from McMaster-Carr that have silicone cushions rated at 500 deg.. It is surprisingly solid.
My fans are going to work of of a switch or a thermostat. The thermostat probe is under the header wrap on the passenger side. This allows me enough length on the probe wire to mount the control on the dash.
On a side note,
Will this fit here? I will not be using those fittings so don't consider the lever. I will be using an electric solenoid set with a pressure switch.
My fans are going to work of of a switch or a thermostat. The thermostat probe is under the header wrap on the passenger side. This allows me enough length on the probe wire to mount the control on the dash.
On a side note,
Will this fit here? I will not be using those fittings so don't consider the lever. I will be using an electric solenoid set with a pressure switch.
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Shouldn't be a problem Dean...but we can explore it some more tomorrow when you come by to take me out to lunch
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I had to do some work on the G97/50 gear box. I asked a few questions on another thread about flipping it over and converting it to a 2wd from a AWD. Before you go any further, understand that I have never looked inside the magical case of gears called the transaxle.
I called Stanley at GBox and he was great! He talked me through the process. As you might remember from the first few pictures, this box was right out of the Porsche.
The rear out put needs to be cut off and the hole plugged. When I heard that I laughed and almost crapped my pants but it really wasn't that hard. I took the rear yoke off and cut the shaft just a little bit lower than the lip of the case. Then all I would need to do is put a cap or freeze plug over the end and done, right?
NO.
You see, when you take out the yoke, the case is no longer sealed. To be sure that all the metal dust from the cutoff wheel is gone I was faced with the ugly truth that the case had to come apart.
You can see a little bit of the shaft where I cut it. I figured that since it was apart I would cut the remaining excess shaft. You can see in this picture that the shaft is totally cut off.
To make the cap I had to get creative. It was a 2.5 inch ID hole. I took a 2.5 inch hole saw bit and cut the teeth off leaving about 3/4 inch of bit left. I thin cut the threads out of the top of the hole saw bit with my plasma cutter. Next, I welded a 3 inch washer to the top of it. I sat down in the tranny a little and formed a good fit. I should have taken a picture of that but you get the idea. I used the "right stuff" the seal it in the back of the box. I used that sealer to seal up the case as well.
A little decoration finished the project.
I called Stanley at GBox and he was great! He talked me through the process. As you might remember from the first few pictures, this box was right out of the Porsche.
The rear out put needs to be cut off and the hole plugged. When I heard that I laughed and almost crapped my pants but it really wasn't that hard. I took the rear yoke off and cut the shaft just a little bit lower than the lip of the case. Then all I would need to do is put a cap or freeze plug over the end and done, right?
NO.
You see, when you take out the yoke, the case is no longer sealed. To be sure that all the metal dust from the cutoff wheel is gone I was faced with the ugly truth that the case had to come apart.
You can see a little bit of the shaft where I cut it. I figured that since it was apart I would cut the remaining excess shaft. You can see in this picture that the shaft is totally cut off.
To make the cap I had to get creative. It was a 2.5 inch ID hole. I took a 2.5 inch hole saw bit and cut the teeth off leaving about 3/4 inch of bit left. I thin cut the threads out of the top of the hole saw bit with my plasma cutter. Next, I welded a 3 inch washer to the top of it. I sat down in the tranny a little and formed a good fit. I should have taken a picture of that but you get the idea. I used the "right stuff" the seal it in the back of the box. I used that sealer to seal up the case as well.
A little decoration finished the project.
)....Here is a better picture of the box post output shaft amputation.
The only thing left to do on the tranny is to move the vent tube to the top and the drain to the bottom. I talked to Stanley at Gbox and he said the vent had to be exactly where it needs to be and can't be more than a 1/8th off in any direction!:stunned:
That is a little scary but why stop now? I had some pictures of Fran's spare gearbox that showed the vent location and it looked pretty easy.
There's the hole and you can see when you look inside why it had to be pretty precise. Anyway,I greased up the tap and finished it up.
I wanted to vent the tranny up on the firewall away from everything so I used a barb fitting to attach the hose to.
I turned it over so now the top is the bottom so I did the same thing. Only hereI just pulled out the vent tube and tapped the hole.
I used an AN fitting and a cap to complete the drain.
I need to sort out some starter stuff but other than that, that is how you flip a G97/50 and convert it to a 2WD from an AWD. :thumbsup:
The only thing left to do on the tranny is to move the vent tube to the top and the drain to the bottom. I talked to Stanley at Gbox and he said the vent had to be exactly where it needs to be and can't be more than a 1/8th off in any direction!:stunned:
That is a little scary but why stop now? I had some pictures of Fran's spare gearbox that showed the vent location and it looked pretty easy.
There's the hole and you can see when you look inside why it had to be pretty precise. Anyway,I greased up the tap and finished it up.
I wanted to vent the tranny up on the firewall away from everything so I used a barb fitting to attach the hose to.
I turned it over so now the top is the bottom so I did the same thing. Only hereI just pulled out the vent tube and tapped the hole.
I used an AN fitting and a cap to complete the drain.
I need to sort out some starter stuff but other than that, that is how you flip a G97/50 and convert it to a 2WD from an AWD. :thumbsup:
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Procedure is to go slow, use lot's of heavy grease (I use wheel bearing grease) and remove the tap frequently and clean it. Amazing how much the grease picks up.
I poked holes to invert my 930 this way and it worked well. Added pump and filter/gearbox oil cooler too. The "new" vent is the only difficult one of the bunch, but not bad.
Believe me, I stared long and hard at that gearbox before poking holes in it.
I poked holes to invert my 930 this way and it worked well. Added pump and filter/gearbox oil cooler too. The "new" vent is the only difficult one of the bunch, but not bad.
Believe me, I stared long and hard at that gearbox before poking holes in it.
You guys are quick! I did just that but I didn't know if it would work so I took some 3/8 aluminum stock and drilled and tapped a hole using the heavy axle grease method. That way I could see if it would work and how well. I found that if I put the stock on the bench and tapped it pushing down, I had a small amount of slag, very small. I turned it over and tapped a new hole from the bottom up. It left a very clean hole. Go slow and clean regularly.
I flipped the box over and tapped the holes from the bottom. I know the "right" way is to take it apart and do it but after the test run, there was no justification for taking it apart further.
I flipped the box over and tapped the holes from the bottom. I know the "right" way is to take it apart and do it but after the test run, there was no justification for taking it apart further.
Dean
Taking it apart takes ten minutes. unbolt the driveaxleflanges, pull them out. Unbolt the diffcover take it off. Pull the diff out. Done. Reinstalling the other way around, as long you not dissassembling the gearbox, no need for any reshimming.
if you do so you could add tapps for a oilcooling system.
BTW you got one box with a LSD already included. The 5th digit ( in your case a 2) denotes the Diff installed. 1 = normal diff, 2 = limited slip diff
TOM
Taking it apart takes ten minutes. unbolt the driveaxleflanges, pull them out. Unbolt the diffcover take it off. Pull the diff out. Done. Reinstalling the other way around, as long you not dissassembling the gearbox, no need for any reshimming.
if you do so you could add tapps for a oilcooling system.
BTW you got one box with a LSD already included. The 5th digit ( in your case a 2) denotes the Diff installed. 1 = normal diff, 2 = limited slip diff
TOM
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Here's a look at what I got for an engine. This is the Ls376 480hp with a wiring harness.
I took off the manifolds and installed the motor mounts (back wards the first time) and the cross member that bolts to the chassis. The orientation of these parts is important. I put them all on wrong at least once!
Here is a picture of the alternator installed and the belt wrapped around all the pulleys. The belt is 61.4 inches I think. I kept the box for future reference.
I took off the LS3 manifolds and installed the LS7 versions.
I found this -6 AN adapter that clips on the fuel rail. I thought it looked easier than the compresion idea. I did order the compression fitting just in case.
I took off the manifolds and installed the motor mounts (back wards the first time) and the cross member that bolts to the chassis. The orientation of these parts is important. I put them all on wrong at least once!
Here is a picture of the alternator installed and the belt wrapped around all the pulleys. The belt is 61.4 inches I think. I kept the box for future reference.
I took off the LS3 manifolds and installed the LS7 versions.
I found this -6 AN adapter that clips on the fuel rail. I thought it looked easier than the compresion idea. I did order the compression fitting just in case.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
I wouldn't use that type of 6AN adapter Dean. There is a long thread on LS1tech about it blowing off under pressure. Russell came out with a new style earlier this winter due to all the bad publicity. It mounts differently.
I use Swagelok fittings for everything these days. They are good to 2000psi.
Whose design accessory drive are you using Dean? Where did you get the water pump inlet and outlet pipes?
I use Swagelok fittings for everything these days. They are good to 2000psi.
Whose design accessory drive are you using Dean? Where did you get the water pump inlet and outlet pipes?
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Thanks for the heads up. I certainly don't want that blowing off. I'll switch to something else. I new it was to easy!
