Dusty's SLC Build

[Dusty]

All the sensors terminate in this stackable chain that then plugs into the switch module. From there the collected telemetry data is used to program switching, and this data is also relayed to the dash Guage so the driver can see what’s going on and so that you can program your dummy
Lights based upon the sensor data

 

[Joel K]

Rusty, Racepack looks like a really slick setup. I like the way all the components daisy chain and stack together. Nice to see you are getting close to the first start.

 

[Dusty]

Finally got her running. Ran into a little frustration with the MAP pressure sensor in the intake manifold. This manifold is for an LS1 and has the sensor for the LS1. They make a wiring adapter that lets this LS1 sensor talk to the ls3 . But for whatever reason, my car does not like the LS one sensor and simply will not fire when it is in place. I was pissed off last night so I simply unplugged the LS1 Map sensor from the wiring harness, and the car fired right up.

So now that I know she runs, I need to bleed the clutch and the brakes. I also need to hook up the shifting cables that I had made for her.

Any day now…

 

[Brian Kissel]

That's some pretty exotic looking exhaust you got going on there Dusty. Sounds great !!!!

Regards Brian

 

[Mark B.]

That is wonderful! Love the 8-1 rhythm and sound. Beautiful work.

 

[Jeff W]

Damn, idle sounds like I just walked into the NHRA Nationals.

 

[Chris Kouba]

Can't wait to hear that at full song!!

 

[Joel K]

Dusty, congrats on the first start. It sounds totally sick!

Question for you. You mentioned you still need to bleed the clutch. So at this point you started the engine with the clutch engaged and no issues with that? I assume the trans is in neutral and filled with oil.

Was wondering if I had to bleed the clutch and disengage it in order to start the engine safely. For me it’s just a matter of changing the SW so it doesn’t look for a depressed clutch on start.

 

[Dusty]

for the start I did fill the transaxle w fluid and had the transaxle in neutral. But...when i rev the motor the wheels turn a little bit..??? The wheels dont turn at idle. any thoughts why the wheels turn in neutral??

 

[Ady]

for the start I did fill the transaxle w fluid and had the transaxle in neutral. But...when i rev the motor the wheels turn a little bit..??? The wheels dont turn at idle. any thoughts why the wheels turn in neutral??

Maybe a little drag from the synchromesh?.. more so with revs.

 

[Jeff W]

A couple builders here have shared videos of starting their cars while in the air, I think all of them I remember watching had the wheels turning while in neutral with the Graz transaxle.

 

[Mark B.]

Yea it's normal. Just internal friction in the transaxle with cold gear lube. My SLC with Graz also does it. My old 6-speed Corvette did it too.

 

[Dusty]

I have the engine all wrapped up neat. Clutch is bled and the oil coolers are all properly tied in.

 

[Dusty]

I’m putting more time into Slc now. Me and my brothers have been doing a lot of prep for the 24 hours of lemons Race that was two weeks ago. We campaign three cars this year. And our fastest car was the 99 S-10 with an iron Duke four-cylinder.

You can see in the picture my dry sump tank hitting the vent on the super light. This is why you measure twice cut once. This tank is off by about an inch and a half so now I have to rebuild the bracket for the sump tank. that’ll be about $300 worth of hoses that need to be replaced because of this mistake. It’s the little things to get you.

 

[Joel K]

I’m putting more time into Slc now. Me and my brothers have been doing a lot of prep for the 24 hours of lemons Race that was two weeks ago. We campaign three cars this year. And our fastest car was the 99 S-10 with an iron Duke four-cylinder.

You can see in the picture my dry sump tank hitting the vent on the super light. This is why you measure twice cut once. This tank is off by about an inch and a half so now I have to rebuild the bracket for the sump tank. that’ll be about $300 worth of hoses that need to be replaced because of this mistake. It’s the little things to get you.

View attachment 142946

I can empathize for sure. I’ve had at least a few of those mishaps. I keep saying “the lack of space is the enemy of progress!” But your car looks great!

The lemons is a lot of fun. I have a friend who has competed in Lemons for at least the last 7 seasons. I was invited to join his team, but that didn’t go over too well with my wife so decided to build an SLC instead. It all worked out.

Keep up the progress!

 

[Dusty]

Lemon racing is really a great time. This team is one of the fastest. They actually had a a missile brigade, following this car all around in the pits.

 

[Dusty]

OK. Made the new dry sump mounting bracket. Put some speed holes in it while I was at it. Painted it black this time. Now it fits nice and tight in there. And I can go ahead and lower the body down to its proper position

 

[Dusty]

I’ve been trying to align the body and overall it’s coming together. I think I’ve got the spider figured out and the back of the car is looking good. The wheel position is about right inside the arches.

Having a little challenge getting the front nose piece right. I think I’m going to be able to fix that with proper spacers in the front. Spacers between the aluminum tub and the fiberglass nose piece will lift the nose up a bit and I think that will line everything up

I’m trying to decide if I want to buy that really cool front nose hinge or if I want to mount the front nose with some sort of clamps and disregard the hinge

Here is my question. I have seen threads on this form where people have placed spacers between the fiberglass and the aluminum chassis to help bolt everything down and position the fiberglass properly. Fact, I bought a few rounds of Delrin rod to cut and fit in such a manner. Can anyone remind me of which thread Reds had some good pictures of this done and showed positions of where people place these pucks? I’d rather do it where others have done then try to re-engineer this issue

 

[Joel K]

Rusty,

Nice progress. Curious how well the windshield fits?

For the Delrin spacer approach and location, check out Johan’s thread post 49-57

Thread 'Scandinavian SL-C build'

Apr 22, 2018

Hello forum members,a short intro, my name is Johan, live in Sweden and I received my SL-C a week before cristmas last year.
Back in the middle of the -80 I lived in the US for almost three years. During the initial period I shared an apartment with an american guy who later became my best friend.(And still is)
One of the first days I was trying to brake the ice by asking him of his height and weight.
So I asked: Hey buddy how long are you? Of course he was l laughing his balls off and the ice was broken.
Why am I telling you this? Well, if I’m writing something really stupid here on...

• Joystick
• forum ice ls3 ordered sl-c
• Replies: 220
• Forum: The SLC Clubhouse

 

[Dusty]

much thanks

the windshield fits well. like 1/8 gap on both sides. i was considering making a hard spacer that fits between the rollcage and the windshield frame so that i could shape and stabilize the windshield frame in its relation to the window itself.