Fling SLC Build Thread

[Jim T]

Do most builders insulate the pipes forward to the cabin (in the area where the tire is)? I have not seen many builders photos that indicate that. While it would protect the pipes, if they were uncovered in that area, they could cool better. Thoughts?

Michael, I insulated the entire length of the coolant lines from the radiators noses section back to the engine compartment. I used the same roll bar clamps you are using to secure the coolant lines and I certainly did not want to have any rattles.


As a second thought; the angle of your picture may be deceiving, but it sure appears that your coolant lines are very close to the bottom “A” arm. I've got an obsession with squeaks, rattles bangs and bumps and took every precaution to avoid that.
Jim

 

[Cam]

That's a nice way to mount the coolant lines. My lines are closer and collect various sizes of road dirt/pebbles in the wheel well area. Those mounts would not allow it to collect.

 

[Michael Fling]

Wouldn't the pipes cool better if they were NOT covered in the wheel well area? They will be insulated next to the cabin to keep it cool, but it wouldn't seem they could dissipate heat better if they were exposed to the air in the wheel well areas???

 

[Jim T]

Wouldn't the pipes cool better if they were NOT covered in the wheel well area? They will be insulated next to the cabin to keep it cool, but it wouldn't seem they could dissipate heat better if they were exposed to the air in the wheel well areas???

Cooling is the function of the cooking system. If the fan, radiator and water pump are all operating properly and the radiator is receiving unobstructed fresh air, cooling should not be a problem. The SL-C has long supply and return lines; I would be more concerned about a rock or other sharp object penetrating or even just dinging that exposed pipe in the wheel well.


The four reasons I choose to insulate the entire length of my coolant lines are:

1. Keep the cockpit including the foot wells cooler.
2. Deaden the sound of the coolant flowing through the pipes.
3. Eliminated rattles.
4. Protect the pipes.

Jim

 

[Michael Fling]

I spent last night looking through the Mesa build. What a craftsman. So I decided I had to up my game. I ordered new brake line material so I could bend them. I just cannot live with some of the discrepancies of my existing lines.

I guess no one will ever see it, but because I intend to connect the front bonnet to the splitter, section the splitter from the front trunk, and hinge the front bonnet… for the world to see… all the goodies even in the front trunk area has to be exact. So… the brake lines get redone. I am also going to move the brake lines exit point in the wheel well areas more to the front. I am concerned about my foot hitting the line causing a failure at exactly the wrong time.

I have ordered plugs from Steel/Rubber Products to seal the old exit points. BTW- are the lines a single or double flared?

I want to make my car usable for me, and also for my wife when she wants to go for a spin (part of the deal). So… on to the seat and pedal position. After much trial and error, I felt is was best for the seat and pedal assembly to be slightly angled to compensate for the offset seat position. Here you see the angle of the front seat marked on the floor.

BTW- the one piece interior tub is a really clean well done piece. As you will recall, I sectioned it for ease of insertion removal. I have the first 1 piece and the first 2 piece tub! If you don't have one, get one while they lasts!

I/Don/we got the pedals mounted on the adjustable foot pedal assembly. I decided to keep the adjustment knob to the front of the brake pedal. As you can see, if it was behind the pedals it would be to difficult to operate. The master cylinders make it too much of a challenge. The wing nuts have been replaced with nylon nuts, keeping them slightly loose. The spring loaded knob keeps a positive seat. Now the assembly can be moved without tools and swearing. The assembly will be secured with a plate that has bolts welded to it that come from under the car- eliminating nuts hanging down under the car (Can I say that?).

Here is what I learned. With the pedal assembly full aft and the seat forward my wife is comfortable and she can reach the pedals. With the pedals almost full forward and the seat moved and inclined back, I reach things well too. The pedal assembly is positioned just forward of the interior tub. The seat brackets were mounted on the Sparco seat sliders.

I have the new gentleman's seats. I am large in the shoulders and these seats accommodate me well. They are deigned so that there are some pretty cool options for mounting.

I sectioned the tubing on the supplied lift handle for the Sparco sliders. A 3/8' solid bar was bent to 151/2" wide which slides into the sectioned tubing. This will be JB Weld or Cotter pined in place later. This positions the width of the seat sliders just right for the seat brackets to be just slightly wider than the seat. This positions the sliders are 20" wide (outside to outside). A handle was attached on the solid bar to accommodate the step up in the seat area and in the interior tub.

So here is the plan. I am having an aluminum plate made that fits into the inset on the seat. A thinner one will be fit ted and fiberglassed onto the outside of th seat inset area. The seat will be secured in the rear from the plate into the seat bracket. The front will be secured with pin that goes through the plate into the seat bracket. There are 2 positions in the front plate allowing the seat to change tilt or inclination. Because the inset area is molded in the seat, this pin will be accessible from inside the seat. Trying to adjust this tilt from outside the seat would be impossible due to the proximity to the center console. I intend to have my seats covered in leather. A leather insert will be easily inserted or removed in this area to cover the pin mechanism.

You can see where the seat is marked for the 2 positions. Not only can the seat be moved front/back, but it can be tilted too. Solid rods are going to be welded from bracket to bracket to help with lateral stability since the front pinned part of the seat is not rigid.

You can see that giving this "tilt" gives decent head room. As yo can also see, the seat will need some minor "adjustments" to fit within the body/doors.

So that is about it. It is at "T Fab" having the plates and pin mechanisms created. I got the tabs welded on the fuel tank. That will go in place tomorrow. Until then...

 

[Alex]

. As yo can also see, the seat will need some minor "adjustments" to fit within the body/doors.

It looks like your head/helmet will be hitting the top of the door as well in that position....

 

[Mike]

It looks like your head/helmet will be hitting the top of the door as well in that position....

Try loosely fitting/blue taping the interior upper roof panel that goes over the roll-bars. You're going to loose even more headroom. You may find that the seat bottom has to be sitting on the floor - mine is and my head is only a couple inches from that interior panel..... without a helmet.

 

[Michael Fling]

The seat is 1/4" off the floor. It will not go lower unless it is on the floor. There is only about 1"play laterally with the interior tub… so there are limits. My son is 6'1" tall. He is also wearing a helmet that has a wing. We will use a helmet without the wing in the SLC. The seat can be moved forward and tilted back to give more space. Regardless, the seat will have to be trimmed laterally.

I have not seen a build with the option to tilt the seat. I thought it was a cool idea.

 

[Alex]

Have you fit the interior roof piece if you are going to be using it? Have you fit the body/doors and tried sitting in it? I'm fairly certain your head will be smacking the door. I ended up redoing my seat's position because I was certain it would fit (cleared the roll cage, etc...) when the door was off ... turned out to be a different story with the door on, heh

 

[Mesa]

I realize there are only so many positions to mount the seat (is it additionally limited by the insert?) , looks like the seat will need to be narrowed at the shoulder as well. Have you or can you slip the body on to check clearances with seat and person in seat? If you are using the door trim panels they consume maybe .50-.75 of an inch of the interior space at the high shoulder/helmet area.

 

[Ken Roberts]

Michael all the brake "hard lines" should be 45 degree double flare. You'll need a high quality flaring tool for double flaring stainless.

 

[Michael Fling]

I will be reducing the seat at the shoulder and head area. The tub doesn't really restrict the position too much. Th issue is simply that as you go more medial, the seat touches the console. I will trim the seat and check it with a driver in place. As I mentioned, the seat can be slightly moved forward and reclined more to allow more head room. Thanks for the info an the brake line flare too.

 

[Michael Fling]

I had sent my template for the bulkhead that goes between the engine and fuel tank to the fabricator and picked it up today. It fit great, so I marked where the shift cables and fuel fill hose will pass through. I have sent it back for those openings to be complete. While he is at it, I am having the bulkhead split into an upper and lower piece. That way the bulkhead can be removed when the engine is in place. An access door is on the driver's side. Because I need to access that area from the engine side (the interior tub precludes access from the cabin), I am considering moving the battery to the front trunk area.

Speaking of engine…
I received my car with the engine/transaxial in place. I was minus the ring gear and bearing. I followed Craig's lead and received my ring gear from genuineaudiparts.com. After removing the clutch, the torque of the flywheel was verified. The pilot bearing went into the flywheel with minor persuasion. Then the clutch was secured with 6mm x 1, 70mm 12.9 grade bolts. They were torqued to 85'pounds. Without a clutch alignment tool, the transaxial and engine were reunited.

Engine will not go back in place until the bulkhead is in place. After it is in place, I will then verify where the 90's will be welded on the coolant pipes.

Rumor has it that the Penski shocks will be coming soon (I hope, I hope). Then I can get those in place along with the lift system.

 

[Michael Fling]

I was wondering about the mounting position of the engine. I had a rear bulkhead made, and I have also added an almost 90 degree water pump connection. I have spacers that are about 1 3/4" on the rear engine mounts. I need to extend those to 2 1/8" to give me appropriate space between the engine and bulkhead. That will of course move the engine back a little more than 1/2".

Is that a problem for the half shafts? I assume the u joints will compensate???

Also, the starter does not engage the ring gear. I assume it has a bendex that engages the ring gear when juice is supplied?

 

[Dave]

You mentioned your bulkhead can be removed with the engine in the car. What about with the body on?

 

[Alex]

You mentioned your bulkhead can be removed with the engine in the car. What about with the body on?

You can't do that unless you modify the roll cage or mounting points?

 

[Michael Fling]

It is split into an upper and lower piece. I think I will have it split vertical too, thus ensuring it could be removed with the body in place.

 

[Michael Fling]

Had the lower bulkhead split before I put the engine put back in place. Now it can be removed in 4 pieces with the body in place. I used push pins in the center area as removing screws would not be possible with the engine in place.

I had relief made for the the water pump hose. Space is tight, but the modified water pump has just enough relief from the bulkhead.

I had 5/16" bolts through the engine into the RCR supplied cross mount. I also used 5/16" bolts through the motor mount and the frame. Is my insecurity and desire to have larger bolts warranted?

It still seems I spend more time looking for tools and blankly starring at the car and trying to figure what to to next. :huh:

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Not warranted

 

[Michael Fling]

I like the route that Dave made. Are there any problems with this routing as far as bodywork interference or system operation with the 90"s?

I would like to copy his route so i don't interfere with the bulkhead door.