Ford F3L and David Piper

[Leopold Figl]

Hi guys,

@olivier: done
@ nic: which type of necuron you use will (in my opinion) depend mostly on cost. The mouldmaking is quite some time behind our current status, I think I recall a rough estimate for the high dense necuron was somthing between €1 and €3 per dm³. The new billets I used were (I think) 700 grade, however I cannot say exactly as I just picked them off the pallet in the mouldmakers shop. That is why I also cannot name a supplier, I didn't order directly.
It frequently happens (so it did in our case) that old moulds are cut apart and recycled (but that is really annoying, as there are always bushings, drillings and what else present, which have to be avoided).

Good luck with your project!

 

[scott]

hi Leopold,

fantastic design & machining efforts . .
are the 2 "colored" parts (serrated steering link, i believe)
anodized? it is a very nice result.

the orange doughnut looks like an elegantly applied solution
could you explain what material it is, please.


AND ! like Olivier --- i have some
detail questions to ask of your tooling efforts so
may i also receive your email address please ? (!) : )

danke und grüße,
scott
harrisonville, mo

 

[Leopold Figl]

scott, thanks.
The shaft and fork extension are not anodized (they're not out of aliminium), these parts are heat treated with a (quite new) process which increases the surface hardness to about double the natural hardness (this grade) and gives the material an alloy layer which is completely corrosion resistant (very high class firearms are sometimes treated this way).
The orange part is an aircraft type universal joint (military standard). These joints are very precise and very stiff in torsion.

 

[Leopold Figl]

Gentlemen,

there have been no updates for quite some time now, sorry for that.
Don't worry, we are progressing as always, however most of the tasks in the last two months were designing so there are not much pictures to show.

At this point I wanted to add a final picture of the shifter, as it is currently installed:

 

[Joe]

Superb work.

 

[Leopold Figl]

..this weekend a friend of mine and myself did some anodizing.
The picture shows some of the custom parts treated (the pulley at the bottom and its washer are not custom made, all the other bits are)

Best regards from Austria

 

[scott]

Leopold,
that is an excellent black result for your ano setup & efforts.
congrats.
did you glass bead blast the AL to achieve your "flat/satin" look?
i love this particular finish "look" more over the polished (read bling!)
result favorable to those paintball clients.
beautiful consistency in both patinas across the many parts.

you are accomodating the "artisan of the devilish details" . . . superbly.
:thumbsup:

 

[Leopold Figl]

Hi Scott,

good question..
No, those parts I didn't blast before anodizing, however in order to keep the results consistent, we used a transparent PVC canister in order to be able to check surface appearance in situ during the anodizing. I know, by measuring current and knowing the surface of the part this is theoretically possible, too, but not any more when you have more than one part hanging on the master rail.
I tried to make the parts gold before taking black, unfortunately this didn't work out well because I used different alloys of aluminum according to the mechanical use of the parts.

Thanks for your heads up!

 

[Olivier S]

Hi Leupold.

I sent you a mail. Did you received it?

Thanks

Olivier.

 

[Leopold Figl]

I sent you a mail. Did you received it?

..not yet.. I'll pm you my email again

 

[Leopold Figl]

gents,

here is a snapshot of the pedalbox, I am currently deriving the drawings for cuting these parts.

Best regards from Austria

 

[Mick Ridley]

Hi Leopold

That looks really good. ......

How long did it take you to draw that ?

Is there any limit to your skills.........

mick

 

[Leopold Figl]

Hi Leopold

That looks really good. ......

Thanks Mick, much appreciated.

How long did it take you to draw that ?

Approx. 65 hours of CAD and FEM time. The pedals are quite heavily loaded, the brake pedal is e.g. designed to take 2kN foot force, which gives 12kN (!) at the master cylinders. The fact that all the pedals are longitudinally adjustable made the design problem a bit tricky.

Best,
Leo

 

[EGLITOM]

Ok i know that N can not be directly converted in kg, but just for a the sake of comparisson. 10 N = app 1kg; 2000n = 200 kg, doesnt seem to be a lot. I think the mastercylinder rod will have to take only 40 -60% of the 1200 kg due to the balancing bar setup or do you have a pedal ratio of 12 :1 ( more likely 5 :1 to 6:1) as well because it is only loaded along his axxis. I think the critical part is the balancing bar itself. which have to take the full 1200 kg as bent force in 90° to his longitudenal axxis. What diameter is your balancing bar and what is the center axxis distance of the two masters


Thanks

TOM

 

[Mick Ridley]

Hi Leopold, In the past I asked you about the bonding of an alluminium chassis, and you said

[/QUOTE]

........"Of course our joints are bonded too, but this is not just done to gain strength, as the stiffness of bonding adhesives is only a few percent of the sheet itself (70GPa compared to about 2GPa in the best case). So if this is added th the rivets stiffness, you have to decide if it is even worth the effort".......

Im now getting to a stage where i will be bonding my chassis..I was going to use Aralldite 420. the only information, I can find about its stiffness is

Creep Deflection at 77°F after
192 hrs @ 1600 psi load (11.0 Mpa) 0.00056 in 0.0142 mm​

*Test temperature on all exposure tests is 77°F/25°C

Im not very good when it comes to Metric/Imperial measurements. How does the stiffness of the Aralldite 420 compare to the stiffness of the bonding that you used

Marcus on his Lola is useing "Terokal 5045"

Someone else suggested .... 3M TM Scotch-Weld TM 9323 B/A

But I can find no information on thier stiffness

I hope you can find the time to reply.........It will really help me.....

Thanks

Mick

 

[Leopold Figl]

Hi guys,

thanks for your comments.
@ Tom:

• Newton can be directly converted to kg, the factor is 9.81, as you already said, approx. 10.
• You are right, the 12kN of course split on both master cylinders, depending on the balance bar center bearing position, which is the thought or the mechanical principle of the balance bar.
• When you say 200kg is not a lot, can you push with both your feet more than 400kg with your calves? Well for sure I know I cant ;-)
• Of course the bending load on the balance bar is high. However you have to keep in mind that in a good lightweight design all the load carrying parts are close to failure when you reach the design load. If they weren't, it wasn't lightweight. Besides, the balance bar is the most simple part in this assembly, you can even analytically solve the strength calculation. Don't worry, it is safe.

@ Mick:

Creep deflection is not the same as stiffness. If creeping takes place, the material deformes plastically. Stiffness describes how a material deforms elastically. The first dissipates energy, while the second stores energy.
I'm sorry but I can't help you much with these numbers. If you ask me for my opinion, even if the manufacturers claim some numbers which are 'better' than the competition, remember that in the end the adhesives we talk about are polymers. Their stiffness can vary, but huge differences can only be made if there is a certain fraction of solid material in the adhesive, which on the other hand is in my opinion not a good idea here (as you want to keep you gap as small as possible).

Regards,
Leo

 

[Mick Ridley]

Hi Leopold.
Yes I did wonder that......

"Creep deflection is not the same as stiffness. If creeping takes place, the material deformes plastically. Stiffness describes how a material deforms elastically. The first dissipates energy, while the second stores energy"

Can I ask what you used to bond your chassis

Thanks mick
.

 

[Leopold Figl]

Hi Mick,

sorry, but I don't want to give away each and every detail.
I'm sure you can understand.
As far as the products you wrote about are concerned:

• The approx. 30MPa shear strength of the scotch weld looks good, mixing ratio is also simple.
• The Araldite 420 is surely a good choice, the strength numbers are circa the same as for the scotch weld. However, this is aviation material, so consider the sourcing problem and the possibly higher price for the better quality standard.
• Terokal 5045 looks good, because I guess this product might be cheap and quite easy to source (however I haven't checked). Its shear strength is a bit below the others, however I'm sure it will also be a good solution.
• All of them are epoxy based adhesives - means that elastic properties will be very similar, as I already stated above.

Best,
Leo

 

[Mick Ridley]

Hi Leopold,

Yes I understand what you are saying.

The Araldite cost twice as much as the Scotch, and the Scotch has a much longer working time, but I will probably go for the Araldite

I will post some pics of my chassis later this year when I have got it to a certain stage

Thank you so much for the time you have taken to answer my questions, you have really helped me. I look forward to seeing more of your car as it progresses....

mick

 

[ARickman]

Just came across this thread - wonderful. Im trying to establish if this car is a true replica of the original or if it is built along the lines of the original? I guess the latter because the body is not aluminium and rom the photos I have of the original car there are quite a few differences besides. It is however a credit to Leopold and his Father. Looking forward to seeing more progress.