Over the last couple weeks I was able to install the control arms and uprights. It’s a lot of fun bolting parts to the chassis. As I got familiar with the components and how they go on the car I made a few changes based on what I’ve seen on some other builds and some feedback on the forum.
Here is a video detailing the control arm install...
Here is a video detailing the upright install...
Based on Alex’s recommendation and an upgrade Cam T and and Ken Roberts did, I decided to use zinc plated steel safety washers on the suspension rod ends. Eliminating the likelihood bolts would seize if and when I need to adjust or replace the rod-ends is a good thing.
I paid close attention to the washer configuration so when I tightened the brackets they clamped down squarely on the rod ends. After getting the washer configs right I coated the bolt shoulders with anti seize and hand tightened all the pickup bracket bolts. Here is a pic of the upper front control arm install....
Since the lower front fork is located in an aluminum square tube and not a more bendable pickup bracket I wanted to make sure I eliminated all slack between the tube walls and safety washers. First I tightened up the lower rear fork which fixes the position of the front fork. I found some thin 5/8” AN washers and they fill the gap very nicely....
Next up was to attach the uprights. I coated all the suspension with Ballistol to preserve the finish of the beautiful Superlite suspension..
For now I followed how Cam T and some others secured the bottom ball joints. That is to use a single washer and grade 8 locknut and cotter pin on top of the nut. Considering the rest of the suspension is secured with locknuts I think this should work. As always I’d like to know what others think about this approach.....
I used Scott Swartz’s recommended Zero Camber settings for now...
1)Bottom front and rear rod ends all in.
2)Top front rod ends 5 turns out both upright side and chassis side.
3)Top rear rod-end 2 Turns out upright side and all in chassis side.
The fronts are close to zero, but had to add two more turns out on the Top rears to get close to zero. I’ll mess with this more once I set ride height etc.
To address bump steer, added a couple washers to get the angle of the steering tie rod to match the angle of the bottom control arm. I’ll mess with this more once I set ride height etc..
Attached toe adjustment rod....
I ran into an issue installing the toe rod spacers. Most builders seem to fit two standard 1/2” washers between the bottom toe link bracket and the tall toe link spacer. I was not able to do this, there was just not enough clearance to assemble the stack of the short toe link spacer, toe link rod end, Long toe link spacer and two 1/2” washers between the top and bottom toe link brackets on the rear uprights.
I wound up using 3 AN washers, 2 placed between the toe link rod end and small spacer and 1 placed between the toe link rod end and large spacer. The tall bolts and washers were all coated with anti seize....
This seemed to work out well. It was still a tight fit and the bottom 1/2” washer needed to be tapped in, there is no slack in the assembly...
All in all I think this part of the build went well....
Next up is to replace the wheel studs with longer ones...