Kuwait Tornado
- Thread starter icecube76
- Start date
Victor,
It is a thin plastic film that protects the panel from minor scratches. It peels off when you
want to remove it.
Ian
Hi Abdul
don't worry if it takes severl attempts in cardboard, its a lot cheaper than aluminium. Generally my final cardboard template is serveral section taped together
Regards
Andy
don't worry if it takes severl attempts in cardboard, its a lot cheaper than aluminium. Generally my final cardboard template is serveral section taped together
Regards
Andy
Victor
as Ian said it's blue film to protect the aluminium .
it does not come with the basic package.
Andy
today is my 4th attempt using cardboard , and finally i got it right .
tomorrow ill cut the panels .
no aluminium wasted YET
as Ian said it's blue film to protect the aluminium .
it does not come with the basic package.
Andy
today is my 4th attempt using cardboard , and finally i got it right .
tomorrow ill cut the panels .
no aluminium wasted YET
Thank you Ian and Abdul for your answers, another question pops up then, what do you do to avoid contact between the aluminum panels and the chassis?, which is made out of steel, I think.
Also, how thick is the aluminum panel, what gage?
Please, I have to learn everything as I read your posts, you have to remember that I am as good as new here and don`t have any mechanical knowledge what so ever.
Also, how thick is the aluminum panel, what gage?
Please, I have to learn everything as I read your posts, you have to remember that I am as good as new here and don`t have any mechanical knowledge what so ever.
When you mark out the alloy use marker pen or chinagraph not lead pencil. The hardness cases it to scratch where you draw the line, and the carbon causes the alloy to become more brittle.
The end result is that the pencil will eventually cause cracks to form, espically on fold lines, ball point also damages the surface.
The end result is that the pencil will eventually cause cracks to form, espically on fold lines, ball point also damages the surface.
Victor
you work on the polished side of the panel. and the unpolished side towards the chassis.
1.5mm is the thickness.
as Maurice said always use a thin marker .
you work on the polished side of the panel. and the unpolished side towards the chassis.
1.5mm is the thickness.
as Maurice said always use a thin marker .
tanks Trev
i hope that you find my build useful.
i hope that you find my build useful.
So, you don´t need anything to avoid contact between those two materials?
The aluminium panels sit directly onto the steel chassis. The aluminum is held in place with Polyurethane sealant and riveted to the chassis.
The chassis is also not bare steel and is first sandblasted and powder coated by Tornado before any panels are attached.
Trev
There was some talk on the ffcobra.com forum some time back about dissimilar metals and the reactions of the aluminum rivets in the steel chassis.
One of the owners has over 300k miles on the car and the rivets are working loose (corroding loose?)..
Like many kit cars, the Factory Five cars have aluminum panels riveted to the chassis.
The thought was to actually put a little of the RTV/Sealant in the holes you drilled before you lay the panel in for riveting. At least that way you could get some degree of insulation. There are alternatives but not inexpensive. Purchasing stainless steel rivets is one.
One of the owners has over 300k miles on the car and the rivets are working loose (corroding loose?)..
Like many kit cars, the Factory Five cars have aluminum panels riveted to the chassis.
The thought was to actually put a little of the RTV/Sealant in the holes you drilled before you lay the panel in for riveting. At least that way you could get some degree of insulation. There are alternatives but not inexpensive. Purchasing stainless steel rivets is one.
i use polyurethane adhesive between the panels and chassis .
while im waiting for tornado to send me the bulk head window .. cause it was missing when i received the kit .
i'll be shopping for a pedal box, im thinking of using floor mounted with 3 master cylinders.
have seen quite a few on ebay, but i dont know which one to buy.
i am using granada brakes , but im thinking of upgrading to a bigger brake after i finish the car.
any help apriciated ..
regards
while im waiting for tornado to send me the bulk head window .. cause it was missing when i received the kit .
i'll be shopping for a pedal box, im thinking of using floor mounted with 3 master cylinders.
have seen quite a few on ebay, but i dont know which one to buy.
i am using granada brakes , but im thinking of upgrading to a bigger brake after i finish the car.
any help apriciated ..
regards
Hi Abdul
The problem with a floor mounted pedal box in a Tornado is that the master cylinders fight for the same space as the steering rack, pushing the pedals closer to the seat. You can get shorter master cylinders from Ap Racing (see below), or you can buy/ make a 'hung' pedal box design like I did for my car.
Vertical Flange Types - CP2623 Type
Regards
Andy
The problem with a floor mounted pedal box in a Tornado is that the master cylinders fight for the same space as the steering rack, pushing the pedals closer to the seat. You can get shorter master cylinders from Ap Racing (see below), or you can buy/ make a 'hung' pedal box design like I did for my car.
Vertical Flange Types - CP2623 Type
Regards
Andy
Andy
can you please post some pic of your setup?
regards
can you please post some pic of your setup?
regards
Hi there,
I had my Tornado delivered from Andy a few weeks ago....havent started a build thread yet but was thinking about. I am not as far ahead as you Abdul but have completed the underside and the sill panels. I have been using black hammerite to cover the drilled holes in the chassis. Not sure how well it will insulate the chassis with the aluminium rivets, but it does go on reasonbly thick and you can see what is and what is not covered.
All the best
Ian
I had my Tornado delivered from Andy a few weeks ago....havent started a build thread yet but was thinking about. I am not as far ahead as you Abdul but have completed the underside and the sill panels. I have been using black hammerite to cover the drilled holes in the chassis. Not sure how well it will insulate the chassis with the aluminium rivets, but it does go on reasonbly thick and you can see what is and what is not covered.
All the best
Ian
You mean something like this:
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/24109-norfolk-tornado-2.html#post233973
Regards
Andy
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/24109-norfolk-tornado-2.html#post233973
Regards
Andy
Ian
congratulation,and good luck with your build. personally i dont cover the holes, i just use a thin layer of the adheisive around them.
Andy
. thanks for the pic.
im still confused between floor mounted and top mounted pedals.
i think that floor mounted is easier to adjust. while top mounted fits easely .
congratulation,and good luck with your build. personally i dont cover the holes, i just use a thin layer of the adheisive around them.
Andy
. thanks for the pic.
im still confused between floor mounted and top mounted pedals.
i think that floor mounted is easier to adjust. while top mounted fits easely .
Abdul
Floor mountededals go up (think VW Beetle etc)
Top mounted: pedals hang down (most cars)
Top mounted pedals are as easy to adjust, the push-rod is threaded which then changes the pedal position. I will have an access panel to accommodate this (also part of TS40 panelling kit).
Regards
Andy
Floor mounted
edals go up (think VW Beetle etc)Top mounted: pedals hang down (most cars)
Top mounted pedals are as easy to adjust, the push-rod is threaded which then changes the pedal position. I will have an access panel to accommodate this (also part of TS40 panelling kit).
Regards
Andy
Last edited:
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
Abdul
Here's my fully adjustable (slides) hung pedal box on my Dax GT40
It is a Tilton unit
Ian
Here's my fully adjustable (slides) hung pedal box on my Dax GT40
It is a Tilton unit
Ian