Brian Magee
Supporter
KVA Type C Mk1 Build Log 943motorsport.
- Thread starter brisca943
- Start date
I know what you mean now, will check this before I go any further. I just followed the original profile that was on the car but that may not have been correct originally .
Cheers
Cheers
I have checked and all seems ok, I have about 1/2inch clearance when on full lock and shock absorber fully compressed, Will need to limit the lock on the rack as the tyre rubs the chassis when on full lock, But thanks again for the advice.
Robin that's a problem i have too
I don't know if the kva's have a bigger turning circle than the others (gtd ....)
frank
I don't know if the kva's have a bigger turning circle than the others (gtd ....)
frank
I appologise for the lack of post been very busy with work over the last few weeks.
I changed my mind on what I am doing with the project, My original plan was too just finish the car off but have decided to completely strip the car down and start again, probably for the best in the long run as I can be sure everything is correct before I take it out on the road. Have the full front end stripped down and started overhauling the components, ( although they all look new the car has been sitting for a few years). Have done the brake calipers, pedal box, hubs, uprights and ball joints, steering rack etc etc. so progressing well now, have a couple of questions that you guys may be able help with.
1: What are the front balljoints from on a KVA ( balljoints are new but gaitors are perished) Type C Mk1 , could just replace the gaitors if they are available.
2: Any KVA owners. How have you finished the area off athe the front as it is quite awkward to try and keep it watertight but make it look good, Have some ideas but looking for some advice.
will post pics of the progress tommorow.
thanks
I changed my mind on what I am doing with the project, My original plan was too just finish the car off but have decided to completely strip the car down and start again, probably for the best in the long run as I can be sure everything is correct before I take it out on the road. Have the full front end stripped down and started overhauling the components, ( although they all look new the car has been sitting for a few years). Have done the brake calipers, pedal box, hubs, uprights and ball joints, steering rack etc etc. so progressing well now, have a couple of questions that you guys may be able help with.
1: What are the front balljoints from on a KVA ( balljoints are new but gaitors are perished) Type C Mk1 , could just replace the gaitors if they are available.
2: Any KVA owners. How have you finished the area off athe the front as it is quite awkward to try and keep it watertight but make it look good, Have some ideas but looking for some advice.
will post pics of the progress tommorow.
thanks
Hi Robin
On the last KVA I restored the front ball joints used were Granada MK 1, remember that the KVA was sold with only a guide as to what parts were fitted/scourced for the build, thats why you are unlikely to find two cars of identical spec.
Replacement joint gaiters are rarely stocked by factors but I have found suitable gaiters for sale at autojumbles
Water sealing at the front end, this is as you say tricky, as on most 40s,make sure the scree base is well sealed to the bulkhead top panel , make up some seal carrying panels at the A post area, form a drain pipe/chute at each side of the screen base channel, seal the bulhead
front panels and pass all pipes,steering column and cables through good quallity grommets.
This should keep water ingress to a minimum, water entry to the area under the nostril from my experiance ,make drainage holes ,water will always find its way here via the nose intake.
To strip and start the build again is a wise option ,you can be sure everything is done to your spec, and build in the current test requirments.
Take the opportunity to fabricate removable engine access panels in the engine bulkhead, make provision for the sealing of panels around the tanks and filler tubes,
cheers
John
On the last KVA I restored the front ball joints used were Granada MK 1, remember that the KVA was sold with only a guide as to what parts were fitted/scourced for the build, thats why you are unlikely to find two cars of identical spec.
Replacement joint gaiters are rarely stocked by factors but I have found suitable gaiters for sale at autojumbles
Water sealing at the front end, this is as you say tricky, as on most 40s,make sure the scree base is well sealed to the bulkhead top panel , make up some seal carrying panels at the A post area, form a drain pipe/chute at each side of the screen base channel, seal the bulhead
front panels and pass all pipes,steering column and cables through good quallity grommets.
This should keep water ingress to a minimum, water entry to the area under the nostril from my experiance ,make drainage holes ,water will always find its way here via the nose intake.
To strip and start the build again is a wise option ,you can be sure everything is done to your spec, and build in the current test requirments.
Take the opportunity to fabricate removable engine access panels in the engine bulkhead, make provision for the sealing of panels around the tanks and filler tubes,
cheers
John
Re: KVA Type C Mk1
Looking for some advice of sound deadening?
I am looking for sticky back material which has a surface which can be wiped down and hopefully water resistant. It will be applied on the reverse side of various aluminium panels and possibly between some sandwiched panels. Has anybody any experience of a product which will be suitable , There are various rolls of material available on Fleabay but not too sure of there quality.
Thanks in anticipation of your help.
Looking for some advice of sound deadening?
I am looking for sticky back material which has a surface which can be wiped down and hopefully water resistant. It will be applied on the reverse side of various aluminium panels and possibly between some sandwiched panels. Has anybody any experience of a product which will be suitable , There are various rolls of material available on Fleabay but not too sure of there quality.
Thanks in anticipation of your help.
Brett James-McCall
Moderator
Re: KVA Type C Mk1
As a slightly cheaper source I use Lead flashing substitute that you can pick up at B&Q, Toolstation etc. Not quite as thick but the same principal, bitumastic material that sitcks to the panels... and can definately be wiped down, its designed to go outdooors
Brett
As a slightly cheaper source I use Lead flashing substitute that you can pick up at B&Q, Toolstation etc. Not quite as thick but the same principal, bitumastic material that sitcks to the panels... and can definately be wiped down, its designed to go outdooors
Brett
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
Brett
How good is that as a sound deadener?
Cheers
Ian
Apologies for thread drift
How good is that as a sound deadener?
Cheers
Ian
Apologies for thread drift
Brett James-McCall
Moderator
Don't know still building the car... HA HA
You might need to double layer it, as I said its thinner (only slightly) than the Dynamat I have. Up to people's choice though I guess. I just want ti to dull sound and stop drumming of the panels.
You might need to double layer it, as I said its thinner (only slightly) than the Dynamat I have. Up to people's choice though I guess. I just want ti to dull sound and stop drumming of the panels.
Been a fair bit of time since I last posted. Other priorities , but looking forward to spending some winter nights in the workshop without too many other distraction.
Front coming along ok. trying to sort out brake pipes and clutch pipe.
Does anybody have a 3/4 clutch master cylinder for sale , as just placed the old one in the car to get the pipes to the correct place.
Also what are your vies on the mounting position for the air con condensor? front of the radiator or a small unit in the back engine area.
Front coming along ok. trying to sort out brake pipes and clutch pipe.
Does anybody have a 3/4 clutch master cylinder for sale , as just placed the old one in the car to get the pipes to the correct place.
Also what are your vies on the mounting position for the air con condensor? front of the radiator or a small unit in the back engine area.
Attachments
Condenser should definitely be in front of the radiator, IMO.
Brian Magee
Supporter
I Agree, the heat in the engine bay affects the efficency of the condenser.
Brian.
Brian.
I would not recommend putting the condenser in front of the radiator - that's my configuration and the heat from the condenser causes the engine to overheat! The heat from the condenser affects the cooling ability of the radiator.
Space on these cars is a real problem so finding a place to put the condenser is not going to be easy. I would recommend mounting the condenser somewhere in the front section with its own cooling fan and air inlet!
John:
thumbsup:
Mike Pass
Supporter
I have some new Girling (with integral reservoir) 0.75" master cylinders with various outlet sizes and ends. What size outlet fitting is on your car? 3/16" or 1/4" ? What fitting do you have at the pedal end? Some master cylinders have a fixed fork and some have the screw on type.
If you post what your setup is I may have one which is suitable. Failing that I can let you have the suppliers that I tried for my car.
I have these as I have just changed my clutch setup and it took a few tries to get it right!
Cheers
Mike
If you post what your setup is I may have one which is suitable. Failing that I can let you have the suppliers that I tried for my car.
I have these as I have just changed my clutch setup and it took a few tries to get it right!
Cheers
Mike
Brian Magee
Supporter
John
Most production cars have the condenser in front of the water radiator. It sounds like your cooling system could be marginal.
Brian.
Most production cars have the condenser in front of the water radiator. It sounds like your cooling system could be marginal.
Brian.
The Master cylinder I am looking for is a 3/4 bore with a 1/4 single outlet with an integrated reservoir. Clevis at the end but could modify for both types
Also with regards to the cooling system. The main radiator measures approx 28" X 12" and is mounted with two cooling fans, I presume this is the standard GTD supply as most of the other things on the car seem like they have been sourced from GTD at one time.
My plan is to run the cooling pipes through the centre of the car with appropriate heat barriers in place. May possible put the Air con pipes in a similar location and create a sort of tunnel through the car.
Trying to sort out air con piping just now.
Has anybody else got any use for air con pipe as my usual supplier has to get it in 20M rolls so I will have spare (quite a bit) 5/16" and 1/2"
Also with regards to the cooling system. The main radiator measures approx 28" X 12" and is mounted with two cooling fans, I presume this is the standard GTD supply as most of the other things on the car seem like they have been sourced from GTD at one time.
My plan is to run the cooling pipes through the centre of the car with appropriate heat barriers in place. May possible put the Air con pipes in a similar location and create a sort of tunnel through the car.
Trying to sort out air con piping just now.
Has anybody else got any use for air con pipe as my usual supplier has to get it in 20M rolls so I will have spare (quite a bit) 5/16" and 1/2"
What are peoples thoughts on the location of an electric water pump.
I am about to order the 115l/m Davies Craig pump and controller.
I have room at both the front and rear?
There is also 40mm box section welded through the tunnel of the car to allow the pipes through. At the moment I have a length of copper pipe through them which just fits inside the box, dont know if this is the best way to do it as thinking about aluminium box which just fits inside the steel box , I would have to fabricate square to round adaptors to get back to the appropriate pipe size.
Looking for some thoughts??
I am about to order the 115l/m Davies Craig pump and controller.
I have room at both the front and rear?
There is also 40mm box section welded through the tunnel of the car to allow the pipes through. At the moment I have a length of copper pipe through them which just fits inside the box, dont know if this is the best way to do it as thinking about aluminium box which just fits inside the steel box , I would have to fabricate square to round adaptors to get back to the appropriate pipe size.
Looking for some thoughts??
Julian
Lifetime Supporter
I have just installed a Meziere electric water pump up front, it fitted perfectly cutting into the exisiting hose between radiator and water tubes and it was easy to weld on a bracket for mounting.
FWIW the square section central chassis tubes in my car have welded on round ends and act as the water tubes, no inserts.
FWIW the square section central chassis tubes in my car have welded on round ends and act as the water tubes, no inserts.
I was thinking about welding a square to round over them and doing the same but was a bit concerened about using the steel with water for corrosion. Have you had any concern with corrosion on them?
