KVA Type C Mk1 Build Log 943motorsport.

Day 1 minus 1 ( will start tommorow)

Well I am the happy owner of a Mk1 Type C KVA. Car is in gulf colours and was approx 80% complete before I started taking it apart. Will be spending the weekend making notes of what I am going to do and what i would like to do. ( Probably two different things). The car has been through a few different people over the time and they have all had there own ideas on what they want to do with it. I have my own ideas so will probably strip the bodywork off and take it from there.

I am open to advice from anybody who has worked on a KVA and can offer some encouragement

Will try to post every week with an update as I plan to have this car on the road by next summer.

Thanks
 

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Well Robin, I can´t really give you any advice other than keep your eye on the price, I wish I could be in your shoes right now, gonna have to wait a couple years more to start mine.

Good look, enjoy the ride.
By the way, the car looks great.
 
Good luck with it Robin, glad you got back with her safe and sound. I flinch every time I go in the garage now she's gone! I'm sure you will do her justice.

All the best,
Murray
 
Day 1 . trying to work out where to mount the engine.? sump at the moment is sticking out under the car by about 35-40mm , are sumps available for the 302 that are not as deep to keep it within the chassis level? as if I move the engine up higher at the front the distributor will be touching the crossbrace on the bulkhead. Could move the full unit back a bit but will get tight around the drive shafts. Any ideas?
 
Canton do "pans" as the Amercans call them, there are others but I cannot remember them at the moment. Bit expensive though, unless anyone out there has one they have spare? You never know!!
Cheers
Murray
 
Robin I've got my sump from armando from the states and it works well
use the search option on armando on the forum good luck with your project
frank
 

Andy Green

Supporter
Hi Robin

congratulation on your purchase and I look forward to following your progress.

I'm using a Moroso oil pan which is 8" deep with a front sump. Event with the eng/trans lowered into the chassis the bottom of the pan does protrude below the chassis line. Available from Real Steel (UK) or Summit Racing (US)
Regards
Andy
 
Can anybody help with a part number or model of granada the driveshafts are from on a KVA. Should measure 16inches from flange to flange including the cv joints. Thanks in anticipation of your assistance.
 

Mike Pass

Supporter
I would guess from the age of the car (KVA) that the driveshafts are from a Mk2 Granada. On the mounting of the engine and box I would set the engine and box in the chassis and place it so that the driveshafts are dead level with the car at normal ride height and dead square to the car centreline. The engine can be lowered to reduce the centre of gravity but don't go over about 4/5 degrees down from the gearbox. The carb can be brought back level with a wedge plate. To help with the always tight fits on a 40 you can get lower height distrbutors and shallower sumps.
I would talk to Mick Sollis at Southern GT about chassis upgrades as he has done several on KVAs and GTDs by swapping the ends to Southern GT spec and the cost is very reasonable.
It would help if you could post info and pics of spec, suspension, engine and box etc. A local friend of mine has just finished his C type KVA and may be able to help with pics and advice.
Cheers
Mike
 
Day3 Photos would help I think. I need to move the engine back around 30mm and will need to check the height against the hubs. was a bit concerned about the angle of the engine as was trying to get it level but would then catch the distributor on the bulkhead seatbelt mounting bar. Dont really want to move that if I can help it as has been powder coated already. everything seems to run into another thing, eg when I move the g-box back it touched the rear clip at the bottom etc etc. On jobs seems to lead to another and trying to plan where to start. I have a MSD optical distributor but the cap on it has a larger diameter than the standard which makes the issue worse, may stick to the standard distibutor for clearance. will start on fabricating the brackets later in the week when I finalise positions. Thanks
 
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Have started today on aligning the drive shafts to the hubs. I will fit one of the gearbox adaptors in reverse to the hub side which will then leave me with a spigot on the hub side and the gearbox side on the offside of the car. I have a bar machined to a clearance fit over the spigots exactly on both sides ( gearbox and hub) , I will then be a case of setting the car at the correct ride height and setting the position of the rear wheels with zero deg camber . I can then adjust the height and position of the gearbox until the machined bar will rotate freely and ensure that the drive shafts will operate with zero angle at normal ride height. Does this sound sensible?

Will post some photos tommorow

Question ? Can anybody give some advice to the correct ride height for a KVA? Distance from the ground to the underside of the chassis/ floorplate.

Thanks
 
Robin,

I have a KVA - a question about your drive axles. Do your axles have a CV joint on one side and a U-joint on the other. My setup has this and I'm using a Porsche 930 transaxle. My KVA has a vibration problem at low speeds and I beleive this may be the source of the problem!

John
 

Mike Pass

Supporter
On ride height I would guess at 4" front and 4.5" rear. You can only really work it out by referring to the geometry of the upper and lower wisbones. Refer only to the actual pivot points of the suspension not the wishbones themselves. The lower wishbone should be angled down at a slight angle from the car to the upright and the upper wishbone should be angled up from the car to the upright at about twice the angle of the lower wishbone. This rough set up method should get you some where near reasonable geometry so that the neg ative camber increases in bump and decreases in droop. It would be a good idea to swing the suspension up and down and check what happens to the toe in as this will determine the amount of rear bumpsteer. Stick a laser pointer on the drive flange and watch the spot move up and down a vertical line on the wall. Set the rear static toe in to 1/2deg toe/ parallel. The rear of the car should be about 1/2" higher than the front.
The pic shows a GTD which is very similar to a KVA. The car is set with the ride height slighty too low ie. angle of lower wishbone too shallow - upper wishbone too steep.
Cheers
Mike
 

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