LS3 install questions
- Thread starter EFNFAST
- Start date
Got my GMPP harness today; engine will be here on Tuesday.
I hate EFI - this thing looks complicated
Why Fran no make car fit MASSIVE carb intake like an ultima
Hilarious.:laugh: ROTFLMBO
Got my GMPP harness today; engine will be here on Tuesday.
Why Fran no make car fit MASSIVE carb intake like an ultima
Because Racecar.
Even those cars now have come over to the LS side of things, Alex. Heck, even NASCAR is dropping carbs on the Cup cars. That should tell you something...
Because they're dumb and don't appreciate technology made by the hand of god?
Bad carb tune - sputter sputter sputter. Hmmm, better twist the screw a bit more.
Bad efi tune - sputter sputter B00000000M!. Ooops :lipsrsealed:
Alex, I'll buy you some palm leaves and incense. If motor go "sputter sputter, poo, poo", just burn incense and wave palm leaves over engine while chanting ancient Palauan verses. Problem solved, and you've saved yourself a $2,500.00 dyno session.
Disclaimer: Burning incense above your engine may make it go "Flame, flame, ka-boom, boom". Then your grass skirt will catch on fire...I forgot to mention the grass skirt part didn't I? Just make sure to use green grass....you'll be fine:thumbsup:
Disclaimer: Burning incense above your engine may make it go "Flame, flame, ka-boom, boom". Then your grass skirt will catch on fire...I forgot to mention the grass skirt part didn't I? Just make sure to use green grass....you'll be fine:thumbsup:
When you guys reverse your intake manifolds do you use blue loctite or no loctite and just follow GM torquing spec?
Searching on LS1tech it seems split between the two, although more people seem to not use loctite on it. I'd rather not just because of how it builds up when you remove it and the need to start chasing/cleaning threads.
Searching on LS1tech it seems split between the two, although more people seem to not use loctite on it. I'd rather not just because of how it builds up when you remove it and the need to start chasing/cleaning threads.
Reversing the intake was easy peasy. Only 'trick' was that the front and rear of it has to be dremeled down, otherwise it interferes with the valley cover bolts (I went with the Katech unit)
2 new questions
1 - On the rear passenger head there's a plug. Is this a location for a 2nd water temperature sender?
2 - On the waterpump I have heater in/out. If I wanted to T those together, how would I do that? One of the pressed in fittings is a -10, the other is a -12 size. Hmmmm?
edit: for #2, NAPA part number: NBH 10743 or GM #10108509
2 new questions
1 - On the rear passenger head there's a plug. Is this a location for a 2nd water temperature sender?
2 - On the waterpump I have heater in/out. If I wanted to T those together, how would I do that? One of the pressed in fittings is a -10, the other is a -12 size. Hmmmm?
edit: for #2, NAPA part number: NBH 10743 or GM #10108509
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Ken Roberts
Supporter
1- yes it is
2- you can buy a U shaped heater hose that has 5/8" on one end and 3/4' on the opposite end. The part number is DAYCO #87629
2- you can buy a U shaped heater hose that has 5/8" on one end and 3/4' on the opposite end. The part number is DAYCO #87629
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Nice catch - I've been looking for this for an application on my other car.
Alex, You don't need to hook up the fuel pump or the fan wire. It will run just fine. I use the fuel pump wire for the low presure and the fan wire for the oil cooler fan but I don't have the ISIS stuff.
The tach will work fine if you use the step up resistor. It sounds much more complicated than it really is.
The tach will work fine if you use the step up resistor. It sounds much more complicated than it really is.
Thanks - I'm using an ISIS INverter for the fan wire - it converts the signal from the gmpp harness to basically be a switch that turn my fans off/on (this way I can keep my manual off/on switch and existing wiring for them...I was initially going to have them controlled by a temp sender when I was going carb'd)
I studied your build log regarding the resistor - very helpful. I ordered them and a soldering kit. Never soldered before, but doesn't hurt to learn something new
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Now isn't the time to be cheap Alex.:shocked:Next question
When installing the transaxle adapter to the engine, as well as the engine mounts to the engine, is it okay to use grade 8.8 bolts? I'm sure it's fine for the former, but the later (engine mounts to engine) I'm uncertain of.
No, but it's what I have handy and I'm lazy, lulz
besides, 8.8 is grade 5.
The engine is held in place with 2 grade 8 bolts to the chassis; the transaxle by 3 grade 8 bolts to various points in the chassis. Grade 5/8.8 shouldn't bend if used in the adapter mounts/engine mounts because those 5 bolts above basically hold the whole thing up and take all the stress?
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