Mazda 20 B engine in SL-C
- Thread starter Garry Buzzelli
- Start date
Cool...keep in mind I did mention to you about using our adapter plate that has the ears to mount the drivetrain into the chassis...plus the steel mounts that bolt to the chassis to create the attachment point....
You know the ones you said you didn't need....wink
You know the ones you said you didn't need....wink
Thanks Fran, the adapter plate isnt on there right now, since I turned it back over, they are sending me another, but I should of used yours, would of made it easier to mount. Motor wont be here till Monday or Tuesday, due to customs, so only leaves me 4-5 days to get it mounted before my surgery.
Took me half a day to turn over the tranny and move the ring gear to the other side, tho Ian at Mendeola we very helpful with step by step instructions.
Took me half a day to turn over the tranny and move the ring gear to the other side, tho Ian at Mendeola we very helpful with step by step instructions.
Congrats Gary. Looks good in there.
I guess having a transaxle that was meant for a mid-engine application, instead of inverting one intended for a rear engine, makes a difference as far as engine height is concerned. All about relative position of the input shaft.
Your engine sits a good 6" or more higher than mine but your transaxle sits a couple inches lower, or so it appears to at least. Will the rear bonnet fit with the intake manifold that high? FYI, some peeps hack out 1-1/2" or 2" from the lower intake manifold and re-weld the mating flange to get the upper section lower for clearance reasons. Real common mod for 20b 3rd gen RX-7's.
I guess having a transaxle that was meant for a mid-engine application, instead of inverting one intended for a rear engine, makes a difference as far as engine height is concerned. All about relative position of the input shaft.
Your engine sits a good 6" or more higher than mine but your transaxle sits a couple inches lower, or so it appears to at least. Will the rear bonnet fit with the intake manifold that high? FYI, some peeps hack out 1-1/2" or 2" from the lower intake manifold and re-weld the mating flange to get the upper section lower for clearance reasons. Real common mod for 20b 3rd gen RX-7's.
I put the body on the car and with it sitting on its wheels the body it just touches the manifold, but I figured it will be higher then that when the center section is on.
The tranny was flipped over, I changed it back, then the motor is lower, but the oil pan hangs down.
I could bring it down lower if need be, Ill put the center section on today and the back end before I start plumbing.
I can lower another inch if need be, or like suggested cut the manifold or just make one. I made the motor mounts to use a puck design, so I can remove, or add if I need to change the height, or tilt the motor back to match the slope of the body, but with it sitting on the cage and on top of the rear wheels, it just touches, but I dont have the window cut out yet either.
Off to Summit racing this morning, its been a week since I have been down there, 15 degrees here now, shop is nice and warm, I heat the floor. Need to get some plumbing, rubber mounting pucks, etc.
The tranny was flipped over, I changed it back, then the motor is lower, but the oil pan hangs down.
I could bring it down lower if need be, Ill put the center section on today and the back end before I start plumbing.
I can lower another inch if need be, or like suggested cut the manifold or just make one. I made the motor mounts to use a puck design, so I can remove, or add if I need to change the height, or tilt the motor back to match the slope of the body, but with it sitting on the cage and on top of the rear wheels, it just touches, but I dont have the window cut out yet either.
Off to Summit racing this morning, its been a week since I have been down there, 15 degrees here now, shop is nice and warm, I heat the floor. Need to get some plumbing, rubber mounting pucks, etc.
More pictures, mounted the rear part, now working on the exhaust pipe, getting a inter cooler made, body clears no problem the throttlebody, finishing this up then its off to the alignment shop so I know the wheels are in the right spot.
Is that a 4th rotor I can see there?
No, its a 20B 3 rotor, Fran was right about the 4 rotor, it would be tuff to fit in. the front pulley has around couple inches from the front where the roll cage bolts to.
I tacked the exhaust in, coming out of the turbo was 4" then went down to 3" out the back. I have a friend that can tig that in for me. I'm a B G welder, blog and grind.
I actually turned the tranny back over from the way it was shipped, it was to low, the oil pan was way below the bottom rail, learned how to flip over the ring gear in the tranny.
Ill make the rear rotor emblem for the exhaust to go thru, I just hung a rotor on the back end to see the size to make the rear support and to built it in to the tail section.
I tacked the exhaust in, coming out of the turbo was 4" then went down to 3" out the back. I have a friend that can tig that in for me. I'm a B G welder, blog and grind.
I actually turned the tranny back over from the way it was shipped, it was to low, the oil pan was way below the bottom rail, learned how to flip over the ring gear in the tranny.
Ill make the rear rotor emblem for the exhaust to go thru, I just hung a rotor on the back end to see the size to make the rear support and to built it in to the tail section.
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Glad you turned the trans over...that's how I would run it if I were you.
Driveshaft angle is very important...
Even if it dictates that you need to dry sump the engine I think its a worthwhile trade off.
Driveshaft angle is very important...
Even if it dictates that you need to dry sump the engine I think its a worthwhile trade off.
Yes the 4th rotor is hanging on the exhaust pipe, kinda slow didnt grasp what you ment, da.
The oil pan is above the bottom rail around a inch. I just have to figure out now how to line up the wheel base so I can mount the body permenant, right now if I mount the back end, it hits the wheel on the back side, and is around a 1/4 away from lining up with the two halves of the body wheel clearance.
If I push the center section back the front wheels have more clearance then the back.
The oil pan is above the bottom rail around a inch. I just have to figure out now how to line up the wheel base so I can mount the body permenant, right now if I mount the back end, it hits the wheel on the back side, and is around a 1/4 away from lining up with the two halves of the body wheel clearance.
If I push the center section back the front wheels have more clearance then the back.
