Chuck
on motorcycles i always do my sync @2500 rpm. In my opinion the important output of a perfect synchronisation is having the same vacuum signal in each carb at the transition from idle to the midrange. So i always assure that the throttle slides create the same signal at app 2 -3 mm opening.
Usually the idle sync ( at almost closed sildes app 1mm) is ok than also.
I had some cases where i did an idle sync ( almost close slides) , but than experienced not so smooth transitions as with the "2500 rpm " method".
This can happpen due to different adjustments of the idle mixture screw( on most motorcycle carbs it is an air adjusting screw).
This air adjusting screw even if turned in or out the same are always flowing differently from one carb to the other.
By doing your snyc at a higher rpm range you take out the importance of the idle mixture screw. Once synchronised it is pretty easy to adjust the idle mixture screw by hearing to the changes of the engine.
ON a 4 cylinder bike even when you change the adjustment of this screw just on on carb the bike will rev higher or lower. So one does one carb by the other finding the position where the bike revs the highest and by turning more out ( more air leaning out) start top drop RMP, this is usualy also the adjustment where the bike turns back to idle rpm the fastest without droping down below and coming back or without taking forever to come down.
TOM
on motorcycles i always do my sync @2500 rpm. In my opinion the important output of a perfect synchronisation is having the same vacuum signal in each carb at the transition from idle to the midrange. So i always assure that the throttle slides create the same signal at app 2 -3 mm opening.
Usually the idle sync ( at almost closed sildes app 1mm) is ok than also.
I had some cases where i did an idle sync ( almost close slides) , but than experienced not so smooth transitions as with the "2500 rpm " method".
This can happpen due to different adjustments of the idle mixture screw( on most motorcycle carbs it is an air adjusting screw).
This air adjusting screw even if turned in or out the same are always flowing differently from one carb to the other.
By doing your snyc at a higher rpm range you take out the importance of the idle mixture screw. Once synchronised it is pretty easy to adjust the idle mixture screw by hearing to the changes of the engine.
ON a 4 cylinder bike even when you change the adjustment of this screw just on on carb the bike will rev higher or lower. So one does one carb by the other finding the position where the bike revs the highest and by turning more out ( more air leaning out) start top drop RMP, this is usualy also the adjustment where the bike turns back to idle rpm the fastest without droping down below and coming back or without taking forever to come down.
TOM