New house no tools

T

Bruce W

Ok yes I've been lurking for a while and was leaning towards the FF GTM until last year of seeing all the issues builders had with them. Now I'm leaning towards the SLC and not having such the delay as the house purchase has been completed. I'm knocking out little tasks before allowed by the wife boss to getting my mid life present to myself. Minivan was purchased last month due to the kid and now have most of the tasks complete. Reason for the long intro is simple. I'm very excited that I am at a point where I can finally pull the freaking trigger. So my question is what tools are needed, handy, useful, not required, etc? Do I need a cherry picker, rotisserie, air tools, etc? I'm trying to gear up and then dive in heads first without band aids. I was also considering getting a lift installed in my garage. Any suggestions there?
Thanks,
Bruce
 
KENS80V

Ken Roberts

Supporter
Welcome to the "gang" Bruce!

A die grinder (with carbide bits) and reciprocating saw are two of my most used tools for fabricating all the brackets that will be needed. You could get by with renting a cherry picker or borrowing one from a friend but they are only a couple hundred dollars these days. A good garage creeper (with big wheels) is a plus. You will be spending alot of time on it. You will be drilling lots of holes so a good 3/8 or 1/2 drill motor would be needed. A quality rivet gun is also needed.
 
S

Mike

When you say "no tools" do you mean none.... if so go to sears and get one of their 100 piece or more combo tool kits (it should have sockets, open ends, ratchets, screwdrivers etc.). Socket wrench extensions - all lengths. A complete Allen wrench set, a level. 50 foot heavy duty extension cords. hand-held shop light. An upright on wheels tool box to keep all the stuff organized. A good cordless drill - having a 90 degree cordless can be be very helpful. A large enough air compressor I've found invaluable. A digital caliper - you can buy these cheap now from a Northern or Harbor Freight type store. A shelf or cabinet to keep all the cans of CRC cleaning sprays, lubricants, oils etc. Two sets of jack stands, wheel chocks, a low clearance car jack.

I think this is the basic stuff that every garage should have - if you work on stuff. The thing I've lusted after for years now is a garage lift - but my house is older with "lower" ceiling and centered garage door openers so I've put this on the back burner for a while.

All depends on your budget also I'd imagine.

Good luck and welcome.
 
CANTDRIVE55

Doc Kaler

Welcome Bruce!

I have a Greg Smith two post OH9000 lift. Reasonable value/"overbuilt" performance.

Wheel dollies are helpful to move the car around in the shop. Jack-stands and Low-clearance hydraulic floor jack.

Yes to cherry picker.

Fabrication work (optional): TIG welder is nice but you can sub-out this work if needed. A metal band saw and drill press are helpful. Jig saw and RotoZip type tools are nice to have. Large bench vise with added "soft" jaws. Kool Tools AN fitting fixtures are nice if you go with AN hoses. I have a tubing bead tool I will lend out to anyone for the cost of shipping.

Plenty of workbench space.

Plenty of storage racks/space for the loose parts that are coming....

Rivnut or Nutsert tool

SAE and Metric Tap/Die set

Air tools are not needed and can be detrimental while assembling aluminum engine/chassis parts. But....shop compressor, die grinder/cutter, air ratchet might be helpful.

Compliment of SAE and Metric nuts/bolts etc. (and hand tools of course)

Safety gear: eye protection, gloves, fiberglass protection, welding protection, metal fabrication protection, etc. Fire extinguisher.

Good lighting, epoxy flooring.

These are some thoughts, not all are needed....

Doc Kaler
 
T

Jim T

Bruce, regardless if you do the SLC build or not, a 4 post ramp lift is always a useful asset to any working garage. In my case, the old bones just don't want to get up and down off a creeper the way they once did. Besides, its much safer than a set of jack stands.


My suggestion; if you have the height and space in your garage, I would definitely go with a lift. You can pick up a decent 8,000 lbs. capacity lift for under 3K delivered. You will need at least 2 buddies to unload and put it together.


Here's a tip: If your wife complains that it takes up too much room, tell her what I told my wife....”hun, it doesn’t waste room, it creates room because you can stack two cars”! If I do the SLC build, it will make 7 cars; so far the only justification I have come up with for my wife’s objection is...”one for each day of the week”! (I didn't say it was a GOOD justifcation)


Good luck,


Jim
 
marc.madmax

marc

Lifetime Supporter
Zip lock bags sharpies to label and boxes to organize stuff in. couple of fold out tables helps. 1 should do.
 
M

mark b.

i use a 4 post lift and wouldn't want to be without it. also have a hydraulic transmission lift that works well, by placing under the car on the lift you can drop the car on it and remove tires, etc.

very long and low floor jack.

these are the big purchases, everything else is easy and you can add as you go depending on your interest.

rivnut gun & rivnuts (lefthander chassis)--use either coarse thread or fine, don't mix! assortment of stainless socket head cap screws for rivnuts. usually 5/8" length works with adel clamps. mcmaster carr is your friend here. peruse the aircraft surplus store for odds and ends. voltage meter. torque wrenches. work bench & cabinets to put all your goodies in. vise, you can use angle aluminum on the jaws to protect your stuff btw. good shop lite (hard to find). radio. fridge. beer. grill.
 
D

Dean Lampe

What about a sissor lift instead? I have been thinking about this since these cars have flat bottoms. It certainly would tack up any room.
 
S

Mike

A

Seymour Snerd

Lifetime Supporter
marc.madmax

marc

Lifetime Supporter
Realistically the four post is a better solution. Even with a low ceiling. 1. you can have two cars in the place of one. or more storage area when you are done with the car. 2. Where to store a scissor lift when you are done. 3. Will it help you later when you have other cars to work on. Even with all of the other larger tools I have a tough time finding room in a 5 car garage. (Bender, Engine hoist, Tranny lift, jacks, welders etc.)
 
T

Doc Todd

marc.madmax said:
Realistically the four post is a better solution. Even with a low ceiling. 1. you can have two cars in the place of one. or more storage area when you are done with the car. 2. Where to store a scissor lift when you are done. 3. Will it help you later when you have other cars to work on. Even with all of the other larger tools I have a tough time finding room in a 5 car garage. (Bender, Engine hoist, Tranny lift, jacks, welders etc.)
Click to expand...

I subscribe to most of what Marc says here. I only have a two car garage and it has two garaged cars all of the time. (My next house, hopefully to be built in ~2 yrs, is planned to be a 4-5 car total garage*.) My only option is to add a lift to put the SLC above my truck or my wife's car. I am tentatively planning on a bendpak 4 post with added hydraulic lifts to lift the SLC, truck and car off the 4 post lift for brake/suspension work.

*2-3 car main with two oversized single car garages on each side of a portico chere. The plan we like has one of the single cars as a nice man-cave that would be a nice "clean room" for the SLC rockonsmile:chug:
 
T

Jim T

shark said:
Dean, that's exactly what I've been researching the last day or so. I have limited head room in the garage. Looked at Greg Smith's website quickly and it appears because of the drive on height - some type of small drive-up ramp(s) maybe needed. Atlas LR-06P Portable Low Rise Scissor Lift

Atlas MR-06 Portable Midrise Lift
Click to expand...


Mike, if you have the ceiling height, I would definitely go with the 4-post ramp lift. If you don't have the height, than the scissors lift is certainly the second best choice.


Having worked with both; there are advantages and disadvantages for both.


Scissors Lift Advantages:
Less expensive
Allows you to remove wheels
Works with limited ceiling height


Scissors Lift Negatives:
Because of limited max. lift height, you are always working hunched over (and I'm only 5'9”)

Must work around center scissors and does not allow you full access to under carriage

If you are tugging on a stubborn bolt with the lift fully extended, the lift will shake. It will not (probably not) tip but will definitely get your attention!


4-post Ramp Lift Advantages:
You are able to stand up straight when working on the under carriage
No center mechanism to get in your way; full unobstructed access to vehicle under carriage

Sturdy and stable, no shaking when fully extended to max height

Allows you to store two vehicles without occupying any additional floor space

Height allows you position a light stand under the vehicle

Much safer (my opinion)


4-post Ramp Lift Negatives:
Does not allow you to remove wheels

May have to block up (extend) approach ramp for a low ground clearance vehicle such as a SL-C?

About double the cost of a scissors lift


Good luck,


Jim
 
S

Mike

RE: Lifts - thanks guys for the thoughtful input. Besides the low ceiling (mainly due to overhead garage door and opener config.) the garage is not that long or wide. I'm very space limited. After working under the car last night with floor-jacks and stands, not even enough room for a creeper, I'm done with old school. Got up this morning and it felt like I did 500 stomach crunches the night before. Considering the costs and size constraints, likely going for a scissor, and will build small ramps to be able to park over it. I also considered that the center of the car is mostly flat panel with nothing much to do in the middle.

Thanks again -- sorry about the thread hijack.
 
marc.madmax

marc

Lifetime Supporter
Jim Hate to tell you this but my Direct Lift came with a set of roller so It can be moved around. I can easily roll it from one bay to another and I had it out side in the spring when it was nice enough to work on my wifes hummer. They came included and was not an option. 1k for one car or 3K for any car. with the physicall locks I would have not problem putting my 1 car over another (although the miata is going below the ferrari!!!)
 
J

Jack Olsen

Thanks for the mention, Jim B.

Here's my garage, which is set up for work on my old 911, as well as a little carpentry and metal fabrication.

1023616dlrf.jpg


My lift isn't ideal for a front engine car, since it restricts access to the underbelly of the chassis. But with a Porsche 911, it gives me access to everything serviceable and only comes in contact with the belly pan.

Watch this clip in full screen and HD and you'll understand how I felt when I finished my first-ever slab cutting, excavating, and concrete mixing and forming. The lift itself is a second-hand Vestil industrial lift table that I paid $455 for. The total budget for the project, including tool rentals, concrete and replacement tiles, was only $670.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9taIj0qw5SM"]Also Sprach My Flippin Garage Lift - YouTube[/ame]

When it's not in use, it's out of sight and out of mind. It's nice not to be tripping over it in such a small garage.

noclearance.jpg


If you want a bench-by-bench tour of my 20x21 suburban garage, visit The 12-Gauge Garage

(This isn't any form of spam. I don't have anything garage-related to sell or endorse. I did mine myself, on the cheap, and I'd encourage others to do the same.)
 
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