Norfolk Tornado

[Andy Green]

Whilst the front & rear clams were refitted, the retaining straps were fabricated, mainly as I was getting fed up in balancing the open clams on a beer crate! I really wanted to do it with a simple pair of wire cables, but I don’t think it would be approved for the IVA process. The rear was straightforward, but the front took some thinking about as the catch has to go over-centre with out locking up (as mine did on the first attempt!) Both catches have also been designed so that they can be locked in the open position, as I don’t want them being blown closed on the back of my neck!

The handbrake cables are now installed. These came from Speedy Cables and did an excellent job, making them in less than a week, once we’d confirmed the design. It’s getting a bit tight where all the pipes & cables come down the tunnel, hopefully I can still get the electrical harness though

Regards
Andy

 

[Ian Anderson]

Andy

A couple of things
Have you thought about the new "press button" tyope handbrake as in the new Astra, Corsa etc - I'm not sure how it works but it sounds like a small winch pulls on the cable - perhaps easier to mount the winch in the engine bay and run a wire from a switch on the dash.

And on the struts - they look good but will not work for IVA - when you open the clip the rear lights need to still be visable (hazard lights and rear lights)
For the IVA fit a bolted on strap from suspension point to rear clip that only allows the clip to be opened enough to check oil and water. (Prop it open with a broomstick for the test) If you need to use tools to remove the strap for them to inspect and the lights are then not visible it is because you would only work on the car in a garage and do not normally carry tools in the car!

IAn

 

[Andy Green]

Hi Ian,
Electric handbrakes are OK, but too complicated for me on this type of vehicle

Regarding the retaining straps are you therefore suggesting they should simply be removed for the test to meet the IVA regulations?
Regards
Andy

 

[Ian Anderson]

Hi Ian,
Electric handbrakes are OK, but too complicated for me on this type of vehicle

Regarding the retaining straps are you therefore suggesting they should simply be removed for the test to meet the IVA regulations?
Regards
Andy

Andy
I'd leave both your brackets and the "strap / dog lead" on for IVA. At IVA the rear must not open enough so the tail lights cannot be seen. - Hence the need for a short dog lead and broomstick. to hold clip open with (Store this behing passenger seat)

They will want to inspect inside the engine bay and at that point you need to make a thing of fetching spanners to undo the dog lead - it then becomes something that would not normally be done at the roadside.

By leaving your brackets on you will not scuff therear clip on the ground when having it fully open

Ian

 

[Andy Green]

Hi Ian
I’ve just re-read the IVA regulations relating to the lights, which are as follows:

Section 20 (Lights)
5.0 When every door, tailgate, boot lid, or other movable part is in the fixed open position (any position in which the component will remain, with or without a fixed stay) each of the

• front and rear position lamps
• front and rear indicators
• rear retro reflectors

must fulfil one of the following conditions:

a) half (50%) of the apparent surface of the lamp or reflector is visible
from directly in front of / behind (as appropriate) the vehicle, or
b) additional fully visible lamp (s) / reflectors satisfying all requirements for the above lamps / reflectors are activated / visible, or
c) a notice in the vehicle must inform the user that in certain positions of the movable components, other road users should be warned of the presence of the vehicle on the road (e.g. by laying out a warning triangle).

Therefore the easiest way around it is to add a note in the car to place a warning triangle on the road if either of the clams is opened up. Easy, just need to remember to pack a warning triangle for the test!

Regards
Andy

 

[Ian Anderson]

Well done Andy

That's a good loophole!

Ian

 

[Brett James-McCall]

Hi Ian
Easy, just need to remember to pack a warning triangle for the test!

Yes, but you know how picky they can be Andy my friend. Is it worth it just for the test top get their backs up?

Great progress BTW - let me know when you are coming down and this time promise not to set fire to our test cells again and I'll bung some burgers on the BBQ for you round mine :thumbsup:

Brett

 

[Andy Green]

Hi Brett,
I know how picky the inspectors can be, but it is clearly defined in the regulations. Also if the clams have a limited opening, I suspect that even section A (“50%of the apparent surface of the lamp or reflector is visible”) may still be applicable. For the test, I’ll probably take off the current straps, take a broomstick as a prop and attach the following somewhere on the car, so I’m hopefully covered on two of the points.

We’ve now finished testing at Dunton, but I’ll try & get over some time to take you up on your offer

Regards
Andy

 

[Andy Green]

Another physiological step forward; the rims have arrived from Image. These are 8x16” fronts and 10X16” rears. I’d originally planned to use 15” rims, but they wouldn’t fit over the brake set-up I’ve used, however I’m still really pleased with the finish & service I got from Harry Nicklin at Image Wheels.

I’ve also dropped the engine & trans back in, so that I can work out the final plumbing for the fuel system, oil system and the electrical harness positioning etc.

First part of the fuel system to mount was the regulator, which I’ve engine mounted. I’m also pretty pleased with the final routing of the throttle cable, giving a simple direct pull onto the throttle lever.

Regards
Andy

 

[Jason]

Looking good Andy, I expect you' re well chuffed, very nice job and the wheels look great.

 

[Andy Green]

Hi Jason
thanks for the feedback. You're right I'm pleased with the way it's going, it just seems to take me soo long to do everthing. There again I know that if I'd build it in 6 months I wouldn't be happy with the finished result
Regards,
Andy

 

[Bill Musarra]

Andy,
Someone may have mentioned this earlier. Are you planning on a "turkey pan" for you intake manifold to block the heat from the fuel rail? I haven't seen what you plan for the exhaust set up. If you are not, you may want to consider one. You also have the option of transposing yor injectors side to side and have thefuel rail on the inside.

Bill

 

[Andy Green]

Hi Bill,
yes a 'turkey pan' is on the list of other things to fabricate. I need to refit the rear clam, so that I work out the clearance to the deck

The exhaust system is as below and it’s a difficult to turn the throttle bodies round so that the injectors on the inside due to the non-symmetrical IDA bolt pattern.

Regards

Andy

 

[Andy Green]

Work has slowly been progressing on the fuel system. The fuel tanks have gone for the feed, return & fuel sensor spigots to be welded in and the low pressure pump and the Pollack valve are temporary mounted in the side pontoon. Access will be from either below or through the engine bay.

The HP pump & filter bracket was fabricated from some aluminium box section I had kicking around and a couple of jubilee clips. Slightly cheaper than some of the new billet pump brackets (although not anodised!) and doesn’t look too shabby at all

With the high pressure pump & filter now been mounted and the swirl pot has been designed and fabricated to fit closely against the bulkhead. As usual when I mocked up the swirl pot it all seemed OK, but I’d forgot I needed to get the coolant fill line behind the fuel fittings and consequently it’s a tight fit and will lead to the pipe fretting. I’d already spaced it off the body to improve the clearance, but a more drastic solution was required

A piece of hardwood was carved to make a simple hammer form of the desired shape I needed and a piece of aluminium was gradually beaten to the pattern. Annealing it a couple of times to keep it malleable ensured it followed the required profile. I was surprised how well it worked out, shame it won’t be really seen when the vehicle is finished. It’s still got to be powder-coated and sealed, but you get the general idea. It’s the small details like this why it’s taking me so long to build this thing.

The swirl pot was also got to be modified as to bottom feed to the HP pump just fowls the upper trailing arm. Would probably be OK, but again I prefer things to be right.

Regards
Andy

 

[Terry Oxandale]

Love the "woodwork"!

 

[(C)arlos]

Andy,

superb work .....

I spotted your dipstick, it looks like you are using a solid core one ?
You will not be happy with it...look at Lokar flexible Dipstick ( summit has got them ) ...the are great for 40s and their tight engine compartment

 

[Andy Green]

Hi Terry,
don't by wife I'm any good at woodwork, or I'll spend too much time doing the woodwork jobs around the house

Hi Carlos,
yes the blade type dipstick is a tight fit, but it does just clear the bulkhead. A Lokar item will probably come later

Regards
Andy

 

[Jason]

Ingenious solution to forming the metal there Andy, nice work.

On things taking a long time, my old man always used to say "Measure twice, cut once" and he was right. Once it's completed the way you want it to be then you might the time and work you've put in to get it built.
Carry on Sir - fine work you're doing there and I'd love to pop in and see the results next time I'm home in Norfolk - have to drive right past you to get to Old Costessey anyway

 

[Dalton Veitch]

Andy, do it once and do it right. Good on you.

Regarding woodwork and house jobs, I often wish I wasn't handy with tools (or at least concealed the fact after marriage). Friends who can't hold a hammer or work a screwdriver get to avoid all manner of things (usually problems) that are left for me to fix at my place. Unfortunately I like things done correctly and properly, and the local tradesman often isn't satisfactory and I know I'd get annoyed and re-do the job anyway.

Keep up your build; you are getting close to burning rubber now.

 

[Jason]

Ingenious solution to forming the metal there Andy, nice work.

On things taking a long time, my old man always used to say "Measure twice, cut once" and he was right. Once it's completed the way you want it to be then you might the time and work you've put in to get it built.
Carry on Sir - fine work you're doing there and I'd love to pop in and see the results next time I'm home in Norfolk - have to drive right past you to get to Old Costessey anyway

Just re-read my post from yesterday and noticed that a chunk of it seems not to have made it properly: "Once it's completed the way you want it to be then you might the time and work you've put in to get it built." err?

What I meant was that once it's finished the way you want it to be then the time and the pain invested will all be worthwhile.
Cheers