Brett James-McCall
Moderator
Can I ask how people have installed these. I bought a T piece adaptor, but it seems to interfere. Can people post some photos. Thanks
Oil pressure senor and switch
- Thread starter brettmcc
- Start date
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
ETB instruments do a single sender unit for pressure and idiot light connection
Works OK on the DAX
IAn
Works OK on the DAX
IAn
Hi Brett
I've other people's installations where the sensor was remotely mounted on a short section of -3 braided hose. This gets around alot of the the poor access issues. I plan to do this on my engine as well
Regards
Andy
I've other people's installations where the sensor was remotely mounted on a short section of -3 braided hose. This gets around alot of the the poor access issues. I plan to do this on my engine as well
Regards
Andy
Brett James-McCall
Moderator
Hmm, thanks Andy good idea.
Ian - spoken to ETB and the sensor won't work with Smiths Classic
Ian - spoken to ETB and the sensor won't work with Smiths Classic
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
ETB Instruments
And costwise
ETB Instruments - Sensors Ancillaries
One spade connector for idiot light - the other for oil pressure gauge
Ian
And costwise
ETB Instruments - Sensors Ancillaries
One spade connector for idiot light - the other for oil pressure gauge
Ian
Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
+1 . What made mine super easy was the use of remote oil filters. All I needed was a -3 fitting and hose inserted in the plumbing, and route that up to the gauges.
Brett,
If you go the remote oil filter route it simplifies the arrangement. If you are using electrical guages and the stock filter arrangement, then you can use the outlet for the factory unit. If you are going manual it would be easier to use a remote unit as you can measure temp and pressure off the same unit. I am actually measuring 4 functions off the remote housing.
Over temp warning lite, oil cooler fan, pressure, and fuel pump cutoff switch. I use the oil pan for the manual temp gauge.
The remotes give you four 10 AN outlets(2 in 2 out) to utilize for all these things. The connections inside the adapter are inner connected. So The OUTs are for the oil pressure and the return to the engine. My return goes to a thermostat that will send cool oil back to the engine, but hot oil to the remote cooler, then back to the engine. The oil pressure line will need an adapter, 10ANmale to3 AN female. The fuel pump cutoff is in the second IN port and is bathed in the hot oil straight from the engine. It is a neat switch much like a pressure switch, except it has 3 wires and 2 functions. Wired correctly, when the oil pressure falls below a preset number(mine is 12 I believe) it grounds the wiring(in series) to the fuel pump relays and shuts them down and lights up the low oil pressure warning lite. I find this a great source of comfort if not noticing the gauge when this happens and causing the loss of a very expensive engine. Besides engine bearing failure it can happen in a high speed turn where the sump pickup either lifts out of the oil(or the oil is pushed away from the pickup), or the baffles in the pan don't do their job. Some will wire there's to the ignition wiring and it will shut everything down.
To do all this you will need some different types of fittings. I combine the over temp and the oil cooler fan on one fitting. The fitting should be a two prong ground fitting. It can be gotten at any temp setting you want. I have mine set at a temp around the normal operating temp. It grounds the lite and the remote cooler fan relay(turning the fan on) as a reminder to me that the temp is at the top of the normal range and I should keep an eye on it. This dual pole arrangement allows you to use the true ground for this function rather than the block as the ground. Most brass fittings will need a sealer, whether Teflon tape or some other sealer, which will interfere with grounding.
The second out line is for the fuel pump cutoff and the oil pressure line. This is achieved with a T fitting. the combination of fittings is 10AN male to 3AN female, to 3AN(male to male), to 3AN female T.
Most speed shops carry the fuel pressure cutoff switch with the instructions. I have a momentary bypass switch around the fuel pressure cutoff that allows the fuel pumps to work while cranking.
Bill
If you go the remote oil filter route it simplifies the arrangement. If you are using electrical guages and the stock filter arrangement, then you can use the outlet for the factory unit. If you are going manual it would be easier to use a remote unit as you can measure temp and pressure off the same unit. I am actually measuring 4 functions off the remote housing.
Over temp warning lite, oil cooler fan, pressure, and fuel pump cutoff switch. I use the oil pan for the manual temp gauge.
The remotes give you four 10 AN outlets(2 in 2 out) to utilize for all these things. The connections inside the adapter are inner connected. So The OUTs are for the oil pressure and the return to the engine. My return goes to a thermostat that will send cool oil back to the engine, but hot oil to the remote cooler, then back to the engine. The oil pressure line will need an adapter, 10ANmale to3 AN female. The fuel pump cutoff is in the second IN port and is bathed in the hot oil straight from the engine. It is a neat switch much like a pressure switch, except it has 3 wires and 2 functions. Wired correctly, when the oil pressure falls below a preset number(mine is 12 I believe) it grounds the wiring(in series) to the fuel pump relays and shuts them down and lights up the low oil pressure warning lite. I find this a great source of comfort if not noticing the gauge when this happens and causing the loss of a very expensive engine. Besides engine bearing failure it can happen in a high speed turn where the sump pickup either lifts out of the oil(or the oil is pushed away from the pickup), or the baffles in the pan don't do their job. Some will wire there's to the ignition wiring and it will shut everything down.
To do all this you will need some different types of fittings. I combine the over temp and the oil cooler fan on one fitting. The fitting should be a two prong ground fitting. It can be gotten at any temp setting you want. I have mine set at a temp around the normal operating temp. It grounds the lite and the remote cooler fan relay(turning the fan on) as a reminder to me that the temp is at the top of the normal range and I should keep an eye on it. This dual pole arrangement allows you to use the true ground for this function rather than the block as the ground. Most brass fittings will need a sealer, whether Teflon tape or some other sealer, which will interfere with grounding.
The second out line is for the fuel pump cutoff and the oil pressure line. This is achieved with a T fitting. the combination of fittings is 10AN male to 3AN female, to 3AN(male to male), to 3AN female T.
Most speed shops carry the fuel pressure cutoff switch with the instructions. I have a momentary bypass switch around the fuel pressure cutoff that allows the fuel pumps to work while cranking.
Bill
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
You may already know this but....
If you supply the fuel pumps with the wiper of the three-terminal pressure switch, connect the starter signal to the NC terminal, and the ignition signal (or fuel pump signal) to the NO terminal, you eliminate the need for the bypass switch on the dash.
(BTW we are talking about an EFI car, I hope).
Yes, you lose the oil pressure light, but then having the engine suddenly shut off probably already got your attention. Besides, shutting off the engine forces oil pressure to zero anyway, so what is the light really telling you that you don't already know?
My thought on this is to have a separate switch for a warning light, and have it trigger at a much higher threshold than the engine shutdown "fail safe" switch does. That way the oil pressure warning light still has some non-redundant meaning.
I'd prefer a warning light to come on at something like 80-90% of the lowest normal operating pressure which might in fact be above the idle-speed oil pressure. That way if it comes on while you've got your foot in it, you're really getting a warning, not just a notification.
BTW a lot of the oil filter adapter plates (i.e. that go where the filter used to be) have a pressure port as well.
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Well said ! ! !
Attached picture is probably redundant based on foregoing posts, but for what it is worth . . . It shows our oil pressure sender and oil temp sender in place on the remote filter housing. Seems to work just fine with appropriate readings.
The remote filter arrangement makes it easy to add multiple senders.
The remote filter arrangement makes it easy to add multiple senders.
Attachments
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
I did this as well; the remote oil filter was because it would be so difficult to change in the stock location, plus the 60s cars had them, but I am going to Tee off the remote adapter for the oil pressure warning light. The electric oil pressure gauge has a sender which is connected to the engine by an AN3 stainless braided hose and some adapters. There is a tab on the sender bracket that allows it to be bolt mounted to the chassis near the engine block, with some slack on the braided line. If I have an oil temp gauge, and I think I do, the oil temp sender will go in the remote adapter as well. It's a lot easier that way and all the wiring can be bundled.
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
This is a good idea also since senders live longer when not vibrated and heated.
BTW in case anyone else cares, Pegasus Racing carries an oil pressure switch with threshold adjustable from 20-40 lb/sq. in.
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THats exactly how i have it done also.
Just used a Dash 4 line going to it
I fabed a stainless T, to which i welded a stainless bracket. THe bracket itself is mounted togehter with the bolt of the engine mount. The bracket is about 4 inches long and bent it will take away the most of vibs. I very much like this location.
The only thing i think which need to be done is to purge the air out whem preoiling the engine to get a good and exact pressure reading. BTW my warning light switch is adjustable.
TOM
Just used a Dash 4 line going to it
I fabed a stainless T, to which i welded a stainless bracket. THe bracket itself is mounted togehter with the bolt of the engine mount. The bracket is about 4 inches long and bent it will take away the most of vibs. I very much like this location.
The only thing i think which need to be done is to purge the air out whem preoiling the engine to get a good and exact pressure reading. BTW my warning light switch is adjustable.
TOM
Question: would it work to put a "T" in that line and add a temp sensor? My gut tells me that the oil is not really circulating so the temp readings would not be accurate. Trying to find a good place to mount an oil temp sensor on the 302 going into our 65 Mustang.
Chuck,
Your sensor needs to be in "the flow" to be accurate. A remote oil filter mount would have a port or two that the sensor could be mounted to(assuming you have the room). Just need a step down. You could tap a bung into the oil pan if you felt you had to.
remote oil filter - Google Product Search
Bill
Your sensor needs to be in "the flow" to be accurate. A remote oil filter mount would have a port or two that the sensor could be mounted to(assuming you have the room). Just need a step down. You could tap a bung into the oil pan if you felt you had to.
remote oil filter - Google Product Search
Bill
Brett James-McCall
Moderator
Tom,
I have done something similar over the weekend, except I need to weld a bracket onto the T fitting I had so I can mount it. Will post a picture when I get home tonight. Great minds
Brett
I have done something similar over the weekend, except I need to weld a bracket onto the T fitting I had so I can mount it. Will post a picture when I get home tonight. Great minds
Brett
Brett James-McCall
Moderator
Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
Brett, is that an oil temperature probe a the end of the square bar with a pressure sensor on top?
