Based on my experience, the cast iron fittings will corode quickly. Change them to brass or stainless.
Pete B's Build Thread
- Thread starter PeteB
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Since you are adding the Acusump, you might consider a second safety device that I added with mine. I added a low pressure cutoff switch(lower than the Acusump) in line to the fuel pumps(low and high). Then if you lose oil pressure after the 3 quarts are pumped in, it cuts the fuel pumps saving the engine( or what is left of it). Most have a schematic for a bypass wire. I hooked mine to a button hidden on the dash but accessible. Then when you start the car you have to press the button for the pumps to work. It is wired like an Inertia switch. Hope you are using one of those!!
Bill
Bill
I used a switch for the fuel pumps to cut the engine on the race car I have and also a second switch for the coil power. The coil power cuts it right away. The fuel pressure will run for a little bit and when the pressure goes down it leans it out really bad and then turns off. Not good to shut an engine off ever that way as it would be best to hook up that same switch to the power to the coils so you shut off spark instantly and the engine just dies right then. I am thinking if there is no oil pressure the engine and the fuel pump turns off it might run for 2-5 seconds and that is long enough to kill the engine from no oil and have the lean issue. Just my 2 cents.
Troy,
Your suggestion is a good one and should work well. Especially if a carburated system. If EFI, then I think shutting the entire computer down(coils and injectors) and the fuel pump(s)would work best. My reasoning is two fold. 1. the pump(s) will continue to pump even with the ignition/coils off. If running over debris or junk in the grass ruptures the oil pan there is the possibility of a fire. 2. If it is running into a fixed object, there may be ruptured fuel lines. In this scenario the inertia switch would work best. My reasoning is that if the engine needs to shut down, then the fuel pumps need to as well. Rethinking my premise, there is pressure in the fuel lines, and shutting the pumps won't kill the engine immediately. May have to include the ECU with the pumps.
Bill
Your suggestion is a good one and should work well. Especially if a carburated system. If EFI, then I think shutting the entire computer down(coils and injectors) and the fuel pump(s)would work best. My reasoning is two fold. 1. the pump(s) will continue to pump even with the ignition/coils off. If running over debris or junk in the grass ruptures the oil pan there is the possibility of a fire. 2. If it is running into a fixed object, there may be ruptured fuel lines. In this scenario the inertia switch would work best. My reasoning is that if the engine needs to shut down, then the fuel pumps need to as well. Rethinking my premise, there is pressure in the fuel lines, and shutting the pumps won't kill the engine immediately. May have to include the ECU with the pumps.
Bill
Cheapest and best selection on Ebay. Most other sites run $50-$140. One exception is the GM switches. Still can't match Ebay for selection.
fuel pump inertia switch | eBay
Bill
fuel pump inertia switch | eBay
Bill
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Are your fuel pumps not controlled by the LS ECM? The ecm will stop energizing the fuel pump relay(s) when it doesn't receive pulses from the crank sensor.
What is a Accupump?
IIRC - it's a pre-pressurized system for a dry sump oiling system.
Actually wet sump. It is a preset pressure device that if the oil pressure goes below the limit set, will pump 3 quarts of oil into the engine. Usually in an oiling system that is not baffled and has washup onto the walls in high speed turns, or the pickup comes out of contact with the oil, etc. When oil pressure returns, the oil is pumped back into the unit and is held til needed again. Some use it with start up to pre oil the engine prior to startup. Just depends on how you set it up the system.
Bill
Bill
Interesting. I've mainly seem them with dry-sump setups for start ups.
Thank you for that information, and I take it you have to run a dry sump with the LS motors?
Most LS motors are wet sump set ups being that they come in virtually every GM vehicle ever made, cars/trucks..etc.
The LS7 is the most notable one that comes specifically with a dry sump set up.
Converting a traditional LS motor to a dry sump does take some doing.
EDIT: I may have read your question wrong... From what I've read, a dry sump in the SLC is not necessary but many people do it.
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PeteB
GT40s Supporter
What is an Accusump? Canton Racing Products - Accusump Tech
From what I have seen, putting the LS motors in the car are just as much work as a different type of power plant. From all the pictures I have seen, just seems like its packed full in the back end of tanks, wires, exhaust, cables, etc.
I think putting a old engine would be easier if you were going to a V8 type, anybody remember a carburetor?
Distributor? Less wiring, no ECU, just my thinking, but my rotary does have a ECU but not much more then half dozen wires from the motor to the ECU.
I think putting a old engine would be easier if you were going to a V8 type, anybody remember a carburetor?
Distributor? Less wiring, no ECU, just my thinking, but my rotary does have a ECU but not much more then half dozen wires from the motor to the ECU.
