Rf 117
- Thread starter Iain Pretty
- Start date
Ross Nicol
GT40s Supporter
What were your impressions from the driver's seat Ian? Was the wait worth it, all that kind of stuff. Tell me that wings available and not worth a million dollars, please!
Looks magic
Ross
Looks magic
Ross
nice In no particular order:-
Driving position... better that expected, good visibility, can easily see turn in points, my neck will be stiff by tommorrow but should improve over time
Brakes.. Huge difference will need to adjust driving style quite significantly
Handling .. Huge difference .. HUGE difference...but I like it
Power steer.. spot on
Engine... despite being solid mount very smooth but way too quiet ! I have previously relied on exhaust note to pick engine revs for gear change.
Gear Box .... Holy moly, this is going to take some time.. I ended up steering with one hand and leaving the other hand on the gear shift. We need to get the gear shift way closer to the steering wheel and alter the ratio. Hewland do not use any centering detent which feels a bit odd but should get better over time.
Gear ratios are not quite as nice as the Holinger but the torque available more than covers any shortcomings
Cooling system....Spot on, runs at @85deg, we have no radiator fan but can warm the car up on stands for 20mins without any problems.
Alarm lights, shift lights and Motec dash .... needs sorting, way too much information to digest with everything else going on !
Tyres (We had a mixed bag of unknown vintage)
Temps.... Rears came up quite quickly as you would expect, fronts needed 2 laps more than the rear before they felt OK,
General impression,
First session 5 tenths
First session of 15 mins was used to confirm engine, radiator, gearbox temps...all good
Check nothing rubbing...all good
Check Power steer & ratio ...all good
Bed in new pads... probably did not acheive full heat penetration
Check front to rear balance... unknown
General feel.... not going fast enough to pass meaningfull comment
Second session
7 Tenths
Bring tyres up to temp... better
Give the barkes a work out.. 3 rd lap braked really hard into turn 2 and locked front passenger ... flat spot of some significance but still driveable.
Rev the engine out to limiter & check temperatures... all OK
Push a little harder into some of the "safe corners"
Turn 9 (My favourite) shows signs of understeer which you could drive around with the throttle but will need attention
Turn 12 Nicely progressive oversteer that could easily be controlled with the throttle
Generally, as the tyres came up to temp and my confidence in their condition increased the car gradually came alive. The front passenger tyre meant hard braking was not really on the cards but turn in was really good, mid corner was really good, exit on some corners will need an alteration to my driving style, some fresh tyres will also help.
We had to curtail the last session as the front tyre was locking everytime the brakes were applied and the thumping noise coming down the straight was louder than the exhaust noise.
lap times were really encouraging given the circumstances.
Iain
Driving position... better that expected, good visibility, can easily see turn in points, my neck will be stiff by tommorrow but should improve over time
Brakes.. Huge difference will need to adjust driving style quite significantly
Handling .. Huge difference .. HUGE difference...but I like it
Power steer.. spot on
Engine... despite being solid mount very smooth but way too quiet ! I have previously relied on exhaust note to pick engine revs for gear change.
Gear Box .... Holy moly, this is going to take some time.. I ended up steering with one hand and leaving the other hand on the gear shift. We need to get the gear shift way closer to the steering wheel and alter the ratio. Hewland do not use any centering detent which feels a bit odd but should get better over time.
Gear ratios are not quite as nice as the Holinger but the torque available more than covers any shortcomings
Cooling system....Spot on, runs at @85deg, we have no radiator fan but can warm the car up on stands for 20mins without any problems.
Alarm lights, shift lights and Motec dash .... needs sorting, way too much information to digest with everything else going on !
Tyres (We had a mixed bag of unknown vintage)
Temps.... Rears came up quite quickly as you would expect, fronts needed 2 laps more than the rear before they felt OK,
General impression,
First session 5 tenths
First session of 15 mins was used to confirm engine, radiator, gearbox temps...all good
Check nothing rubbing...all good
Check Power steer & ratio ...all good
Bed in new pads... probably did not acheive full heat penetration
Check front to rear balance... unknown
General feel.... not going fast enough to pass meaningfull comment
Second session
7 Tenths
Bring tyres up to temp... better
Give the barkes a work out.. 3 rd lap braked really hard into turn 2 and locked front passenger ... flat spot of some significance but still driveable.
Rev the engine out to limiter & check temperatures... all OK
Push a little harder into some of the "safe corners"
Turn 9 (My favourite) shows signs of understeer which you could drive around with the throttle but will need attention
Turn 12 Nicely progressive oversteer that could easily be controlled with the throttle
Generally, as the tyres came up to temp and my confidence in their condition increased the car gradually came alive. The front passenger tyre meant hard braking was not really on the cards but turn in was really good, mid corner was really good, exit on some corners will need an alteration to my driving style, some fresh tyres will also help.
We had to curtail the last session as the front tyre was locking everytime the brakes were applied and the thumping noise coming down the straight was louder than the exhaust noise.
lap times were really encouraging given the circumstances.
Iain
flatchat(Chris)
Supporter
Well Ian, we're curious about the debut at Eastern Creek over the weekend -- Tim did very well in the Lotus
Chris,
Now where is my little black book, ah yes here it is,, page 3 excuse No 7....
We discovered that the engine was running lean in an intermitant fashion during Friday practice, we tried adding additional fuel to the map 5% then 10% then 15% and finally for qualifying 20% ! It was still not right so we withdrew before we did any damage.
At 20% additional fuel and still running lean there was clearly something not right !
It would appear that the original $2 peice may be the culprit. The spark plugs get their timing from the fly wheel but we are still using the distributer drive to give the "Referece Sync" The standard Ford device is a magnetic device and is unable to provide a sufficiently accurate signal for the engine, the therory is that the Motec CDI unit may be creating electrical "noise" that is affecting it. We plan to install a Hall effect device or similar to sort the problem.
The Motec Data shows a significant number of "out of range " Ref Sync data which may have effected the tune.
Other than that the car felt good, but driving with one eye on the Lambda read out with the potentially disasterous down side made turn 1 an uncomfortable experience
Iain
Now where is my little black book, ah yes here it is,, page 3 excuse No 7....
We discovered that the engine was running lean in an intermitant fashion during Friday practice, we tried adding additional fuel to the map 5% then 10% then 15% and finally for qualifying 20% ! It was still not right so we withdrew before we did any damage.
At 20% additional fuel and still running lean there was clearly something not right !
It would appear that the original $2 peice may be the culprit. The spark plugs get their timing from the fly wheel but we are still using the distributer drive to give the "Referece Sync" The standard Ford device is a magnetic device and is unable to provide a sufficiently accurate signal for the engine, the therory is that the Motec CDI unit may be creating electrical "noise" that is affecting it. We plan to install a Hall effect device or similar to sort the problem.
The Motec Data shows a significant number of "out of range " Ref Sync data which may have effected the tune.
Other than that the car felt good, but driving with one eye on the Lambda read out with the potentially disasterous down side made turn 1 an uncomfortable experience
Iain
Having now seen Iain's GT40 in person and diced with it on the track, can i just say WOW!!!!
Iain, you can be well pleased with the outcome. Mick & your crew have put together an engineering masterpiece.
To those who are near enough to Sydney, get to a track sometime and have a look at this car.. it is awesome.
Down the main str8, Iain pulled 5-6 car lengths on me, and we can usually outrun a GT3 Cup !! I was all over it in the twisty bits, but set up and tyres were obviously not quite right yet.
To be that quick "out of the box" is a good sign. (not for me though, need a smaller blower pulley.....!)
Iain, you can be well pleased with the outcome. Mick & your crew have put together an engineering masterpiece.
To those who are near enough to Sydney, get to a track sometime and have a look at this car.. it is awesome.
Down the main str8, Iain pulled 5-6 car lengths on me, and we can usually outrun a GT3 Cup !! I was all over it in the twisty bits, but set up and tyres were obviously not quite right yet.
To be that quick "out of the box" is a good sign. (not for me though, need a smaller blower pulley.....!)
Thanks. It was HOT, but i had a ball!
Lap one, turn two. I'm leading holding a tight line, PW behind me .You can guess the rest! Broken rear clam, porsche paint all over my rear wheel. I managed to catch it, and hold him off untill the straight. (man GT2's are fast!) I wore him down, and by the end of my stint, had a 45 second lead. Good fun.
NATSOFT Race Result
Lap one, turn two. I'm leading holding a tight line, PW behind me .You can guess the rest! Broken rear clam, porsche paint all over my rear wheel. I managed to catch it, and hold him off untill the straight. (man GT2's are fast!) I wore him down, and by the end of my stint, had a 45 second lead. Good fun.
NATSOFT Race Result
Iain,
Thanks for the opportunity to visit your pit garage on Saturday and see your car in the flesh - very impressive.
Perhaps you can post in advance when you are racing in future.
Thanks for the opportunity to visit your pit garage on Saturday and see your car in the flesh - very impressive.
Perhaps you can post in advance when you are racing in future.
Hi Ian
on my racebike i´m using a infrared light-barrier for triggering the ignition The signal of which is much more defined and exact than an magnetic or hall signal ( which always is a matter of very exact distances and tolerances)
TOM
Pete McCluskey.
Lifetime Supporter
Can you give us a bit more detail please Tom? Or point us to a web site?
Hi Pete
This is what we typically use
http://www2.produktinfo.conrad.com/datenblaetter/175000-199999/184250-da-01-de-CNY_37_TCST_2103.pdf
at a typical switch time of 10 mü s your exactness is 0,5° @ 8000 RPM if you run it of the crankshaft. If you run it of the camshaft or standard ignitiondrive it is 0,25° of crankshaft. The exactness also depends on the diameter of your control disc and therefore the slit dimension related to your total circumfence of the disc. Other than that you supply 5 V and use the outputsignal either single phase ( just on ) or dual phase ( on / off) . IN dual phase mode the width of the slit is defining the opened and closed time of your ignition circuit ( very much like a oldfashioned contact ignition).
In single phase mode you are just using it as a trigger signal to a programmable iginition.
HOpe that helps
TOM
This is what we typically use
http://www2.produktinfo.conrad.com/datenblaetter/175000-199999/184250-da-01-de-CNY_37_TCST_2103.pdf
at a typical switch time of 10 mü s your exactness is 0,5° @ 8000 RPM if you run it of the crankshaft. If you run it of the camshaft or standard ignitiondrive it is 0,25° of crankshaft. The exactness also depends on the diameter of your control disc and therefore the slit dimension related to your total circumfence of the disc. Other than that you supply 5 V and use the outputsignal either single phase ( just on ) or dual phase ( on / off) . IN dual phase mode the width of the slit is defining the opened and closed time of your ignition circuit ( very much like a oldfashioned contact ignition).
In single phase mode you are just using it as a trigger signal to a programmable iginition.
HOpe that helps
TOM
