SLC 24 Howard Jones

[Howard Jones]

I have the Areocatchs that came with the car and I may use them on the top surfaces front and rear. However I am accustomed to looking for the pin in place (stockcar style pin/post system) on my GT40 so that I can avoid having the rear body blow off, so far,so good.

The Aerocatch system would be different and I think it might be a little less obvious if left partially open. It's also much better looking and suitable for a streetcar in my opinion. Alas mine will begin its life on the track where the bodywork is continuously opened and closed all day long and prone to human error. The good news is the pin/post system is essentially in the same position on the car and could be converted to the Areocatch system easily with a few larger holes centered on the same location.

This is a bit of old dog new trick thing I guess. After all I'm using a SBC and a carb remember! Dinosaur racing forever baby! We'll see.

Very nice green SLC, by the way!

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

AeroCatch3 Shear and Tension Latch check these out Howard...woof woof woof

 

[Howard Jones]

More minor fiberglass work. The top rear latch pockets are in and I added vertical slats to the interior vertical member of the rear bodywork. These seam to have really stiffened up this area of the bodywork.

 

[Cam]

So is that about a 5" x 3" piece on either side of the back of the race rear clip?

 

[Howard Jones]

Yes, I made them out of the leftover material that came from the inter door panels opening cutouts. I cut two per side aprox 2"X4" and bonded them together with Plexus. This resulted in a 1/4 " thick two ply piece. I sanded the edges to fit tightly into the body gaps and then again used Plexus to bond them into place. The next day I overlay-ed a few plys of glass mat to add thickness and additional strength.

 

[Howard Jones]

Continued rear bodywork changes. So, no rear window, can't see out the firewall anyway. What the hell, glass it all in and forget about the lexan cracking, and all that extra stuff. What I did was cut out the window all the way to the edge, move it up a 1/4" or so and glass it back in. A little body filler (very little) and you can't even tell its not all one piece. I think the race tail should come like this anyway, but I'm not paying for the bucks, am I.

I also added a stiffener. It seems to have made quite a bit of difference. I can now open and close the rear from one side alone and the rear bodywork doesn't flex much at all.

The last picture is of a neat little henge. The rear can now be moved for and aft about a 1/2 inch. Simply turn the rod end. Easy alignment later.

 

[Cam]

Howard, i bet that helps the rear clip. Must be stout. But no show an tell window?

 

[Paul Osborn]

Howard, i bet that helps the rear clip. Must be stout. But no show an tell window?

He's probably putting in a [GASP!] Wankel engine?!

The shame.

 

[Howard Jones]

I'm hiding the SBC. I run the majority of my track days with a local shelby club. Sort of a joke but, not really, No need for a window, You can't see out of it anyway.

 

[Jack]

Thought of doing the same guy's. Only difference is to make a mold from the actual window (will fit better & a bit less work to post finish). Could mold in some additional vents for the race tail too. It would also lend itself to some very nice two-tone paint job. Still mulling over this. By increasing the thickness of the fiberglass around the rear clip "horseshoe", and adding a simple stiffener it makes the whole clip much
stiffer (I think Rob was first to do this).

 

[Doc Kaler]

I didn't cut the opening out for similar reasons as Howard. I will probably fashion intakes/vents as Jack mentioned.

 

[Howard Jones]

The thing is, I don't think its any more weight this way but its stronger. The mold is pretty thin in the area that is cut out if you install a window and if you leave a nice wide border for strength it is double thick in that area. Then you have whatever hardware you would use. Pretty much a wash on weight if not a bit lighter. I may add two NACA ducts later for ventilation of the engine room.

 

[Cam]

Really i find engine bay temp is a non issue. I ran 32 lap on a track day sat., close to 100 hard miles at Eagles canyon. it was 106F out. heatgun on the asphalt showed 155F. coolant never ran over 215F. oil temp even cooler. if anything rear brakes were getting a little spongy and the cabin was 130F. i might need to add vents directed at rears. This could be different cuz i have ls376 ricardo but it runs amazingly cool...

 

[Damian]

Cam I may have missed it but do you have AC?

 

[Dave]

...and the cabin was 130F.

Did you have the side windows in place?
If so, were they the two-piece design?

 

[Greg]

I didn't cut the opening out for similar reasons as Howard. I will probably fashion intakes/vents as Jack mentioned.

I would like to see some MT900 rear "window" vents and some Zonda R styled rear brake duct intakes on the SL-C. As has been pointed out, the rear window is useless except for showing off the engine.

I've been trying to picture these on the SL-C.

 

[Schills]

Cam I may have missed it but do you have AC?

He didn't in May

 

[Schills]

Did you have the side windows in place?
If so, were they the two-piece design?

In case he doesn't check back in for a while, I think Cam runs without the windows all the time, street and track.

 

[Mesa]

soft top option

 

[Damian]

OHHHHHHHHHH now this is going to be something!!!!! I will say that you might want to talk to the Ultima guys about how they feel in the Can Am as supposedly the air coming out of the radiator goes right over the windshield and into the cabin (reason I keep asking about the effectiveness of the ac) and it makes the car unbearable for anything more than a quick spirited drive (unless you bring a change of cloths). It's what made me decide NOT to get the CAN AM. Oh wait aren't you the one that made the split radiator option venting to the sides which would negate everything I just stated if not I would be curious to find out what your experience is.