Why don't you simply subscribe to the threads under the "Thread Tools" link at the upper right of the thread? That way, all the threads you want to reference are in your profile under the "User CP" link at the upper left of the forum. Always just a click away.
Thanks for taking the time to show me your car again yesterday.
And the ride. Holy #$%& that thing is fast and handles like it's on rails.
I saw it at C&C a while back but there were so many people crowded around it I didn't really get to see as much as I wanted. I think the Lambo/Ferrari owners were kind of pissed that your car was getting all the attention.
John, Nice job on the Cobra! That's about as nice a build as I've seen. Holy $#it that thing is fast.
It's funny, you thought i was driving too fast, I thought you were driving too fast. I guess we are used to having the wheel.
I think you'd do a bang up job if you decide to get one....
Congrats John! Happy New Year. Another +1 for Texas, catching up with CA. I think remember you were going to order white, LS376-480? That makes at least 6 for DFW and 8 in Texas. We ought to meet up at a Cars and Coffee...
Wow, time flies. Back in 2009-2010 I did a straight forward build with the main purpose to get SLC #36 on the road. I had engine start in 8 months and on the road, legally, in 14 months. Alan is chuckling right now. So slow, so slow. Ha.
During the build I had a large number of improvements I put on the wish list. Ok, it was 2016 that I got to that list, but hey… I had 16,000 miles of fun with the car. So much fun, I didn’t want to take it off the road. I made about 12 improvements this Christmas that I’ll outline. But first... a few of my favorite glamour shots, again…
Fuel system – I learned a valuable lesson when I pieced my fuel system together, stick with 1 vendor. I used Russell for most my fitting/lines which have been great, but I added one Earls fitting mixed with Russell line which was a bozo no no. Since the diameter of the SS lines didn’t match the –AN fitting tolerances, I developed a slight drip. It took 4k miles to appear but it could never be tightened, so every 500 miles or so, I’d find 1 drip of fuel. While I had the car off the road, I swapped out the 1 earls fitting with Russell, drips gone. I ditched the Aeromotive 1000 and went with the Bosch/Walbro solution.
Also, I used Aeromotive 100 micron pre then 10u post fuel filter. In retrospect, i think the 10u is a bit overkill. I’ve found they plug pretty frequently, like every 4-6k miles. I had to change them 2x already and swapped them out a 3rd time, pro-actively. The symptoms are a pain. You lose rpm and pull over as the engine stalls. Wait 10-15 min or tap on the filter and it miraculously will start again and get you 10-20 miles so you can limp home.
Most Fords /Chevy’s use with a 40u which is still smaller than the injector orifice, right? Im considering this Aeromotive https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/product/40-micron-stainless-steel-element-for-12635/
Or switching to a 25u as a compromise. What do you think? https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mrf-mp-7065/overview/
Brakes – I finally put slicks on for a track day last year. They were new Michelins from a Rolex/weathertech GTLM team. This was probably the most notice-able improvement in track performance by far compared to street tires. I could hit a corner at 15-20+mph faster. Insane! But… my brakes weren’t ducted and after 3 sessions I warped my rotors badly, even set my Wilwood brake pads on fire. Non ducted brakes worked fine for track days with street tires but slicks created much more glowing heat. The front calipers were so bad that I pitted the pistons causing the rebuild kit to leak. I wanted to upgrade to the current Camaro SS Brembos but the upright needed to change. A shout our to Thanks to Fran Hall for swapping me out the old solution with the new solution. It really is like a set of giant Legos. They snapped right in with new ball joints, I got some SS take-off front calipers, easy peasy. I bet my swept area doubled. I’m still bedding pads but it’s a noticeable difference
Here is a look at the front ducting system I put in while the car was off the road. Then the old crispy, flamed Wilwood pads/cracked rotors. Plus the shiny new uprights and Brembo's, that's my kinda Christmas.
Intake - I used Spectre accordion tubing for intake because I have the race tail and didn’t want to cut a hole in the rear clip/window for a scoop. The accordion looked like crap and I believed it was restricting intake. I moved to Solid Al tubing with Silicone elbows but it wouldn’t fit mainly because the coil packs blocked it. I found if I chopped the coil pack rails and spun the 3 offending packs out of the way, I could squeeze it in. As soon as I made this change, I began getting a “miss” at high rpms, say 5k+. The cut off was strong enough to torque the car in a corner, not good. I had an LS – fanatic mention that Chevy had a reason to add 2 grounds to each coil pack. I added grounds back to the bottom side of the 3 rotated coil packs, no more high rpm cut out.
Shock - I noticed my QA1’s were a bit tweaked after 16k with 10 or so track days. Driver’s side was soft as butter, passenger pretty stiff. This probably came from me running my qa’s at high compression and rebound. Like 8’s to 10’s. QA recommend a group in CA called Naake who rebuilds 20 different brands. Naake said QA1’s are good shock but recommended them run at a compression about 2 or even 1 and rebound about 3 or 4. Otherwise, they are bricks and you’ll damage them. They rebuilt them for $90/shock and came back looking like new.
Naake Suspension Specialists
2300 Central Avenue
Roseville, CA 95747
916.771.0109 Phone Naake Suspension
Also, I’ve found the black Teflon qa1 rod ends that come standard will wear out fast, like 3-5k miles. You'll be able to feel a slight amount of slop if you jack an Sl-c corner up and force the wheel side to side/top to bottom. I’ve switched the Stainless steel models that last a whole lot longer. https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hal-com8t-102pk/overview/