SLC Hubs/ race worthy

KENS80V

Ken Roberts

Supporter
and just a heads up....The Timken C7 rear hubs look like they are simply repackaged SKF hubs. You can see the SKF inscription near the backside of one of the wheel studs.
 
F

Frank Clark

Once again, eBay to the rescue. Here is a picture. So the sensor comes in from the side of the upright. I can probably work that out. And at $80-90 to have one in hand to check it out, it's not a big investment.
s-l1600.jpg
 
M

Mark

I just ordered one of Jim Dulaney's hub adapters, he's got 3 more spots available FYI. [email protected]. Reading Ken's comments I got the impression that only the rear C7 hub fits. Jim confirmed that you can also use the front C7 in addition to the C5/C6 hubs and it may even be a better idea than using the rear. Here's his direct quote:

"I'm in the process of trying to design a C6 suspension to fit in my C3 vette. Yesterday, I read in the GM service manual, that you shouldn't use rear hubs on the front, since they were designed to have the CV shaft and nut inside of them.
I don't fully understand why that makes such a large difference. Also, SKF only makes one "Race" bearing for the C5/C6, which is used both front and rear. Maybe the factory style is weaker.

I don't know if the C7 would be any different than the C5 race bearing. I know that SKF employed many of the race features into the C7.

I realize I didn't answer your question, but I'm just sharing the limited knowledge I have on the subject. My car has the C5 race bearing with splined hole, mounted on the front. I've had no issues."
 
KENS80V

Ken Roberts

Supporter
Jim had mentioned that he currently has a few customers already racing with the C7 hubs with his adapters. I could have heard that wrong though. Next person to order should ask him again. ;)
 
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Howard Jones

Howard Jones

Supporter
The 33 spline stubshafts I got from the DSS came with big nuts but they are not the self locking kind like the ones you posted. I was wondering about that and asked them. They said retorque once after a few miles and it should be OK. BUT...…………...I think I like your option better. Did you try them for fit?
 
M

Mark

Howard, as Ken pointed out the latest design Dulaney adapters accept C7 hubs as well as C5/C6. I guess based on what you discovered that means the older bearings aren't going to be a tight fit FWIW. What I was trying to get clarification on is if it makes sense to use the front or rear C7 bearings with these adapters. Seems like many folks have been using the rear hubs on the front since SKF only had one "race" design which was the rear. This was prior to C7s coming to market. If both front and rear C7 bearings are SKF designs(are they?) I don't see why we'd want to use the rear.

Jim kindly forwarded the page of the GM repair manual with the warning. This is from the C6 manual not C7, he's not taking a position either way take it for what it's worth.
 

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P

Ron McCall

Supporter
I used the Dulaney adapters on the front ( which are gorgeous BTW) . Jim forwarded me the C7 part # to use with them. I ordered them and they ended up being C7 front bearings ( no center, splined hole) . They fit the adapters perfectly. I had to clearance the upright much less than Howard did. Had the car to the track yesterday and the improvement was drastic.
 
KENS80V

Ken Roberts

Supporter
Howard Jones said:
The 33 spline stubshafts I got from the DSS came with big nuts but they are not the self locking kind like the ones you posted. I was wondering about that and asked them. They said retorque once after a few miles and it should be OK. BUT...…………...I think I like your option better. Did you try them for fit?
Click to expand...
Here is a picture of the nut that came with my stub shaft Howard.

Also included is a picture showing the thread pitch as shown with my Starrett thread pitch gage.

Also included a snap shot of my invoice which also verifies the size.

You can buy with confidence now.....:p

IMG_2572.JPG
IMG_2570.JPG
IMG_2573.JPG
 
Howard Jones

Howard Jones

Supporter
Ken, thanks, I guess my nuts didn't have as pronounced crimping as yours. They seamed to spin on by hand pretty easily. In any case I think I will order a few of the ones you found for the sake of it.

Thanks again.
 
Howard Jones

Howard Jones

Supporter
Mark, At this stage I would do it as follows. Order the adapters Ken has and use the C7 fronts on the front. Then use the C7 rears (33spline) with the much stronger stubshafts to suit from Drive Shaft Shop.

That is about as strong as we can do at the moment. Anything else is going to be full on race car custom made pieces or the full race suspension parts from Fran.

Then work a tone rings solution for the antilock brakes/traction control separately. More than likely a press on to the CV itself, the stubshaft collar outboard or the GRBX drive shaft collar inboard.

If you work that out please post results here, thanks.
 
F

Frank Clark

Howard Jones said:
Then work a tone rings solution for the antilock brakes/traction control separately. More than likely a press on to the CV itself, the stubshaft collar outboard or the GRBX drive shaft collar inboard.

If you work that out please post results here, thanks.
Click to expand...
I am looking to do all 4 wheels, so I am going to give using the GM sensors a shot. This from my ECU supplier:

"GM's notes claim they are an active sensor and indicate the sensors receive power on pin 1 and put out a square wave signal on pin 2. Presumably, the sensor grounds through the body. They should be wired to the unfiltered digital inputs, and it is possible they may need a pull up resistor (1K resistor across the two pins). The factory diagrams imply that a pull up is not needed, but are not 100% clear on the matter. Let me know if you run into any difficulties using these sensors."

Will be a while before I get to it on the car, but will probably chuck one up in the lathe and hook it to the oscilloscope to see if I get a good signal.

If they can be hooked up direct to digital inputs that is helpful as it eliminates all the VR filtering.
 
Howard Jones

Howard Jones

Supporter
Ken I got two set of the nuts. Three out of four looked just like yours with a crimped spot on the vertical flange. One was very marginally crimped. So OK. You gotta expect less than perfect quality control nowadays I suspect.

Anyway I think the most important thing is to retorque them after a few miles of first use. That should run in the bearings. Then I am going to reinstall new nuts and with blue lock tight.
 
B

Brian Kissel

Staff member
Moderator
Lifetime Supporter
Howard, as per Kens advice I ordered the Dulaney adapters and the C7 front wheel bearings. Was wondering if anyone looked into these Coleman spindles with replacement and adjustable wheel bearings.
http://www.colemanracing.com/Hub-Adaptor-1991-1996-Corvette-P6289.aspx




Hub Adaptor, 1991-1996 Corvette
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This hub adapter is designed to replace the OEM '91 / '96 Corvette hub / bearing assembly with heavy duty tapered bearings. The adaptor flange bolts directly to the spindle upright. The hub remains in the stock location and utilizes the standard or after market brake rotors and calipers. Hub drilled for both stud sizes. Kit includes: Spindle Adapter, Hub, Studs, Races, Bearings, Seal, Axle Nut, Axle Washer and Dust Cap.
Item #: Choice:
30320
​

Quantity: Price:
​



$506.00








All associated parts and sub-assemblies for the above product are listed below:
Part #DescriptionRacer
30320Spindle/Hub Adapter, Kit, '91/'96 Corvette$506.00
30321Spindle Adapter, '91/'96 Corvette$233.98
30322Hub, Steel, '91/'96 Corvette$265.00
LM48548Bearing, Inner$12.95
M12649Bearing, Outer$15.06
LM48510Race, Inner$13.69
M12610Race, Outer$6.45
19753Seal$5.18
18822Axle Nut, Washer, Cotter Pin$11.99
618-102Dust Cap$4.27
LB-5805Wheel Stud, 1/-20 x 3" EA$4.61
30433Wheel Stud, 12mm x 1.5 x 3.25" 5 Pack$49.95
 
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