SLC picture thread
- Thread starter Dlampe
- Start date
Thank you for the pointers. Cam's car is beautiful. Unfortunately I think yellow is the color I am least interested in. My last go fast toy was yellow and while I still dig the color I want to do something different. I couldn't locate EFNFAST's build but I am on a tablet with my son asleep on my shoulder. Poor guy is sick as a dog and its the only way he can catch any shuteye. I will resume a search for Alex's build after I come back from the doctor.
Its good to know I can count on just buffing the gel coat. That means I can get it on the road that much sooner. I am not the fastest worker and it would probably take me a few weeks at least to paint that car to the level I would want it.
If the gelcoat didn't fully penetrate it polishing the area will make it worse, not better (since polishing it just removing microns of surface area to level it out, and you're removing something you don't have there). I've got several spots, particular around the wheel arches, where it didn't penetrate fully. No biggie, iz race car; I like the fact gelcoat is much harder (and thicker) than paint, so I wetsanded and polished the car and intend to leave it as such for many years (i.t.,s been like that since 2009, and since it's out of the sun it doesn't oxidize)
Btw, this is it sanded and polished. I sanded the seams down starting with 800, working up to 2000. Sanded the entire body with 2000, then purple foamed wool pad (pfw cuts like wool but finishes like foam and stays 100x cooler than an orange or yellow pad) and menzerna SIP for the first pass, followed by menzerna 106 and a white pad as a final pass.
Gelcoat is very tough, yes, but don't do stupid stuff like putting wood on it, putting your drill/drill bits on it, etc..., it's not that tough if you care for an aesthetic finish. The good news is though gelcoat is mills, not microns, thick, so you can get aggressive with the sanding to repair damage if, oh, I don't know, you're stupid enough to turn it upside down on some blocks of wood without taping the area first to protect it and do fiberglass work underneath and have the body shifting unprotected back and forth on the wood *whistles innocently*
Gelcoat is very tough, yes, but don't do stupid stuff like putting wood on it, putting your drill/drill bits on it, etc..., it's not that tough if you care for an aesthetic finish. The good news is though gelcoat is mills, not microns, thick, so you can get aggressive with the sanding to repair damage if, oh, I don't know, you're stupid enough to turn it upside down on some blocks of wood without taping the area first to protect it and do fiberglass work underneath and have the body shifting unprotected back and forth on the wood *whistles innocently*
Alex, looking good!
I plan to polish my SLC this coming spring, but I'm a complete novice at this stuff. A few questions for you:
I plan to polish my SLC this coming spring, but I'm a complete novice at this stuff. A few questions for you:
- Did using a fine 800 grit sand paper on the seams take a long time?
- Did you block sand the body or just go over it lightly?
- Did you buy the 16oz or the 32oz bottles of Menzerna polishes? The Menzerna polishes are a bit pricy, so I don't want to buy more than I need.
Ive said it before, but ill repeat it again. Gel coat takes the worry out of driving. I had Porsche 911/930's and the paint was beyond perfect, but i'd worry about every pebble on the road.
With the SL-C, i had my 100lbs dog jump on the hood and drag his paws down it. It took a little polishing up but you cant even see the spot. I doubt the 930 paint would bounce back like that...
The only downside is, i put a scratch thru the gelcoat in the rear clip during the build. If it goes that deep, its toast.
With the SL-C, i had my 100lbs dog jump on the hood and drag his paws down it. It took a little polishing up but you cant even see the spot. I doubt the 930 paint would bounce back like that...
The only downside is, i put a scratch thru the gelcoat in the rear clip during the build. If it goes that deep, its toast.
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The seams arn't very tall so 800 made quick work of it. Then i worked my way up in grit to remove the previous marks. Make sure you tape off the surrounding areas so you don't sand stuff that doesn't need sanding, heh
I hand sanded it using a harnened foam meguiar's sanding block
16oz is more than enough. You also need purple foam wool pads, some white pads (for finishing work) and either a rotary buffer, or if you've never used one before, a more noob friendly buffer like a flex 3401.
See link below for more info on this electric Australian car. OODLES AND OODLES OF TORQUE!!!...
The EVS-450 makes 375 HP @ 2550 rpm and 774 ft lb's FROM 0 RPM TO 2550 rpm, and
the EVR-450 makes 416 HP @ 2420 rpm and an astounding 904 ft lb's FROM 0 RPM TO 2420 rpm! Talk about feathering the throttle off of the line...
Varley evR-450: Australian-made electric sports car details revealed | CarAdvice
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The EVS-450 makes 375 HP @ 2550 rpm and 774 ft lb's FROM 0 RPM TO 2550 rpm, and
the EVR-450 makes 416 HP @ 2420 rpm and an astounding 904 ft lb's FROM 0 RPM TO 2420 rpm! Talk about feathering the throttle off of the line...
Varley evR-450: Australian-made electric sports car details revealed | CarAdvice
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That's a good looking car.....
I would recommend a change in aero layout too...
I would recommend a change in aero layout too...
Nice carbon tub to go along with your Tillets, electric doors and electric parking brake.....Jonathan you are a lucky man...
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