Southern GT #48

Just had a quick look through Eddy and must say its looking good so far, Will have to spend a bit more time having a read. Congratulations


Ryan
 

Ed McClements

Supporter
Try Kenny Coleman at EDA. He builds lots of american V8s and often 302 strokers so he may have a good standard crank lying around. He built Mark's engine. He will run your engine and set up on the dyno for about £300.

Engine Data Analysis
Engine Data Analysis "Specialist Engine Building & Tuning"

Cheers
Mike

Hi Mike

Yes - I was planning on heading for EDA after visiting Mark Boyers recently and hearing about the machining & dyno work Kenny did for him. When I take my block over there for machining & cam bearing fitting I'll ask about a crank.

Cheers,

Eddy
 

Shaun

Supporter
Hi Eddy

Looks good, I am waiting for my chassis from SGT which I think is next in line on the "production line", well on the jig anyway :)

I think I am number 52 or 53

Cheers
 

NickD

Supporter
Hi Eddy

Looks good, I am waiting for my chassis from SGT which I think is next in line on the "production line", well on the jig anyway :)

I think I am number 52 or 53

Cheers

Hi Eddie,

You won't be disappointed and I think they are well past those numbers now. I popped by on Tuesday to pick up some parts and it was great to see a business really thriving. Look forward to seeing your build thread.

Best.


Nick D.
 

Shaun

Supporter
Cheers Nick, got an email from Mick last night and my build starts today...No turning back now :)
 

Ed McClements

Supporter
Been busy with the angle grinder. Started with this:-

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and roughed-out a lever using some photos of an original gear lever

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I tried to work out an elegant way of reversing the motion at the gearbox, but eventually decided it was much easier to do it at the shifter...

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The hole near the midpoint of the lever will be tied to the ally block by a clevis and rose joint, much like the Porsche 962 shifter...this should give me 1st gear left-and-forward. Not original, I know, but I'm too old to learn a new shift pattern (and remember it in the heat of the moment!).

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Alongside the panelling work, I've been making some of the accessories...these are stainless steel sill covers for the tank apertures.

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Ed McClements

Supporter
Been tacking together the pedal box and mocking-up the master cylinder position and pivot bar (with Oilite phosphor-bronze bushes for the clutch & brake pedals).

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Ultimately this will be adjustable for position, but for now it'll be fixed to suit the 5' 9" driver. Please excuse the state of the workbench!
 

Ed McClements

Supporter
Try Kenny Coleman at EDA. He builds lots of american V8s and often 302 strokers so he may have a good standard crank lying around. He built Mark's engine. He will run your engine and set up on the dyno for about £300.

Engine Data Analysis
Engine Data Analysis "Specialist Engine Building & Tuning"

Cheers
Mike

Hi Mike

I have located a good crank on standard sizes, but it's a 1995 crank which (I think) makes it a 50oz external balance rather than a 28oz which is what would have been in my 1972 302. Any issues using a later crank in an earlier block?

Eddy
 

Mike Pass

Supporter
Should be OK. Kenny will machine the block for the one piece crank seal when he does any other machining. He will also check the crank for any cracks and journal wear. Balance with all parts - pistons ,rods, flywheel and crank damper etc.
Cheers
Mike
 

Ed McClements

Supporter
Should be OK. Kenny will machine the block for the one piece crank seal when he does any other machining. He will also check the crank for any cracks and journal wear. Balance with all parts - pistons ,rods, flywheel and crank damper etc.
Cheers
Mike

Thanks Mike - I spoke to Kenny today....and my goodness he can talk! His opinion for the bottom-end was:-
  • 347 stroker based on new Eagle crank (don't bother with a piddly little 302)
  • Forged pistons (doesn't trust any cast piston, even hypereutectic alloy)
  • Use new rods - by the time old rods have been re-worked for ARP fasteners you might as well have bought new rods
However, I have already had my UN1-013 rebuilt and plan on using it. I'm concerned that the torque from a well-built 347 might be more than is comfortable put through a UN1, and I'd be personally happier with a "piddly little" 302 with a well-balanced bottom end using quality components. I noticed in Real Steel's price list a set of forged +0.030 Icon pistons:-

FORGED BYKB747030
MODEL 302
BORE 4.00"
STRK 3.00"
C.H 1.298"
PIN 0.927"
RINGS 1/16"-3/16"
WT 565g
CROWN F/T -4.8
C/ROD 5.40"


With a weight of 565g, they're a lot lighter than the +0.030 KB pistons (703g) and are designed for use with 5.4" rods, potentially allowing me to build a long-rod 306ci with a zero-balance factor (I haven't finished doing the maths to work out if this is possible).

I might cross-post this to the "Engines" subforum for people's views.

Cheers,

Eddy
 

Mike Pass

Supporter
I have a 302ci with Performer RPM heads and inlet, 650cfm Holley. 335hp and 340 ftlbs. A 347ci with same top end will be about 420hp and 430 ft.lbs torque.
Cheers
Mike
 

Neil

Supporter
Thank you, Eddy. They look similar to The AFCO Torpedo master cylinders that I use in my build but they are no longer available.
 
If you are concerned about the UN-1 box look into the Chris Cole conversion to a one piece main shaft. better 1st and second gear and a limited slip.
 
Don’t forget to leave room for the two spacevers and Custom support bracket. Looking good eddy
 

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Ed McClements

Supporter
If you are concerned about the UN-1 box look into the Chris Cole conversion to a one piece main shaft. better 1st and second gear and a limited slip.
He's already rebuilt my transmission - I'll have to look again at the invoice (when I'm feeling brave!) to check the details of what was done.
 

Ed McClements

Supporter
This morning, I made a new die for my bead roller - one which will fit inside the 1.5" stainless tube I'm using for coolant pipes. I wanted to roll a bead to keep the hoses from slipping off:-

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I tightened-up the roller as much as it would take, but couldn't make an impression on the stainless tube - it's 1.5mm wall, and I guess the mandrel bend may have work-hardened it? Anyhow, I'll just have to think again.
 
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