Steve's GT-R Build Thread

Steven Lobel

Is this a common problem?

The LS7 in a GT-R has a stock water pump that can be removed with the engine in place. 6 bolts (all the same size). Belt slides off tensioner and can be removed. 4 hoses removed from water pump (used clean 5 gallon bucket to be able to recycle some Dex-cool). SLC accessory pulley comes off with 2x8mm allen bolts. Pump slides out driver's side top without issue.

Here are the removed fittings. The 1/2" pressed in barb was leaking at the pressed side.
waterpump fittings.jpeg

When I first installed the engine, the belt was interfering with the water pump. It took a few hours of grinding with a dremel and other tools with the pump in the car. It took 30 seconds with a flapwheel in the vice to make it right.

waterpump grinding.jpeg

Steven Lobel


Tapping. Some folks do this for the looks. Others do it to have an NPT to -AN line for heater hose. Me: Just to stop a leak.


Summit Racing: You put a 1/2"-14NPT into a 3/8" bag. Shame on you.


Dexcool. Lots of it. Probably holds 3.5 gallons. I think I have been through 8 gallons so far with different leaks/spills.


Tapping in until all threads of tap were inside the pump. This left under an 1/4" of thread showing outside the water pump.
For the 3/8" tap, I just went until threads cut all the way into the press in area. Any further and the smaller Dorman fitting I purchased to replace the wrong size sent by Summit (Edelbrock) would bottom out before sealing.


Under my gas tank is only the coolant pipes, heater hoses, and fuel sender wires. Fuel lines come out above this in the picture. It was still snug for the heater hoses so I padded them with the high temp slip on cover.


I had the Chevys of the 40's bypass valve mounted on a bracket. Now it is zip-tied up to the oil line with a stainless steel zip-tie.


Fittings in place with Loctite 567 thread sealant.

Fired it up and no obvious leaks yet. Gotta cycle it and burp it so it stays at 200 at idle.
Good luck, car is looking great!! love the blue with orange wheels. Mine is blue with gold wheels, I bought a surge tank with 2 out of 3 partially and poorly threaded intakes. It took me forever to figure out why the adopter NPT threads were getting messed up , very frustrating. Hope all your leaks are gone forever. Just as a suggestion you may consider Oetiker clamps instead or worm clamps. Less chance of leaking with heat expansion. Very easy to crimp, the only downside is that you can only use them once. I can send you a few to try out, I could only get a bag of 50 at Grainger, (for all the heater hose 5/8 fittings such as your heater control valve). I will never use them all, the crimping tool is really cheap. Don't use the chinese clamps though. much thinner.

Steven Lobel

Talked to tuner. He said it will run better and smoother if I hook up the VSS for the GMPP. Ordered reluctor from driveshaftshop. 106mm and mounts on half shaft of graziano. Using AC Delco sensor mentioned in VSS thread here. AC 213-344.
Also going to fab up mounts for mesh by welding nuts to perforated steel sheet and using West Marine epoxy/resin. Pics to follow.

Steven Lobel

Started mesh. Much easier than I thought it would be. Make it too big, then trim. Used Diamond XXL in black.
Just mocked in. Will get painted before I install mesh. Ordered more rivnuts for front mesh and painted silver aluminum flat black. Made up some bonded fasteners because these were not available locally.
Mine are not as pretty, but lots of fun to do. And since they go under epoxy on interior panels to never be seen again....




Will need to sand an 1/8" off the removable boot so once painted it does not rub off on the mesh.


Used my last rivnuts for the sidepods. They sure get easier to install after a bag or two.

Help: What kind of paint should I use for the inside of side pods and on inside of roof?


Gotta clean up the rear. H said to get a Suburban 3rd brake light and mount over the rear glass. On order. Oil cooler mounted no sprayed flat black. Camera install will be different as well. Bolt will be gone and maybe a custom fiberglass pod. Currently it gives good picture, but tiny screws hold the angle and will vibrate loose. Red is adhesive cover and could just epoxy to topside of piece it is bolted to.


Steven Lobel


Picking off easy stuff. Got to spray the inside of the side pods, mount the front mesh. Every weekend is a little closer. If weather cooperates, I will be at AMP in Dawsonville Friday or Saturday for some slow test laps.

Steven Lobel


This is the ring from driveshaft shop. It looks like I remove the half shaft and gently clamp it into a vice vertically, with the dark steel part at the top.
Heat up the ring until a bluish hue, and drop it on. Then use aluminum drift if needed to ensure it is past the mating surface.
If I am wrong, let me know. Weekend project.

Steven Lobel


Baked on cookie sheet at 425 for 30 min. Needs to be hotter. I used MAP torch for two minutes and it dropped right on. Drifted it down with hammer and steel drift.


Marked and measured location for hole in heat shield.



Shaft remounted and torqued to 57 ft/lbs. The tone ring / reluctor can go anywhere from the edge of the CV to the grease cap. It's wherever you mount the bracket that determines where the ring goes or vice versa.


A little trial and error with nuts and bolts to get the heat shield mounted and the bracket installed. I used one washer under the angle bracket and over the sensor bracket to get it just under 1/4" from reluctor ring.


Steven Lobel

Did get the hard start when hot issue. 0G from battery to starter. Will check grounds and battery terminals. Will wrap starter and install a heat shield.
With vss hooked up, no stalling.
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